Your Favorite bore and carbon cleaner

[Gargoyle]

If I owned a custom hand lapped barrel from one of the top companies I would probably clean like the F class guys and remove all carbon and copper out of the barrel after every range session/match. Those dudes got the medals and closets full of champion shirts that give them credibility. Since I don't yet have one of those customs and shoot factory barrels, I am leaning towards just maintaining a certain level of copper in the bore. More than likely the copper is helping fill in the imperfections. LOL

Georgia Precision's stance is to clean the throat of carbon and copper, but leave the remainder of the barrel seasoned until 400 rounds "or so" and then do a thorough cleaning of the entire bore. Kreiger stated basically the same thing. The past couple years they said this, who knows, maybe now it's changed. LOL

I just got a Teslong and have a new 308 barrel coming in to build on an AR10. Ballistic Advantage premium series. I plan to monitor that barrel and document what I see throughout its life from the very start. I'm still trying to schedule with a therapist after I used the borescope to look at my current rifles.

 

[Gargoyle]

Best carbon solvent, bar none!.

That have the little basket inside you submerge varnished carb parts in for 20 minutes?

 

[No manches"]

That have the little basket inside you submerge varnished carb parts in for 20 minutes?

Yes sir it does. Works outstanding in cleaning metal parts.

 

[Gargoyle]

Yes sir it does. Works outstanding in cleaning metal parts except ( magnesium ).
That will dissolve in two days.

You patch out your barrels with this? I'd imagine there would be some safety protocols in place for man and gun, LOL!

 

[No manches"]

You patch out your barrels with this? I'd imagine there would be some safety protocols in place for man and gun, LOL!

I use a nylon brush and soak the bore for 2hrs, leave in. Then I use a soaked patch and clean out till no dark patches come out.

Then I soak a bronze brush and work out the rest for about a minute or so, wet patch again till no dark stuff come out, use bore scope inspect and then target the copper with CR-10.

 

[No manches"]

The smell does not bother me at all, the fluid is pretty strong. Use latex gloves as they WILL" swell apart, but by golly! It's fast and powerful.
Use to your discretion.

Been using it since the early 80's tried and recommended by my father..and well" father know's best!.
Oh, and clean the crown if rifle is blued will clean the blueing right off.

 

[rr2030]

Original General Motors Top Engine Cleaner. The black and white can with the pull top. Warning on the label states "will cause nerve damage" We had skin contact often, it was difficult to avoid. Anything I post on this forum that does not make sense I blame on the cleaner. The new stuff has been pussified, along with everything else that worked or was a /of value.

 

[No manches"]

Original General Motors Top Engine Cleaner. The black and white can with the pull top. Warning on the label states "will cause nerve damage" We had skin contact often, it was difficult to avoid. Anything I post on this forum that does not make sense I blame on the cleaner. The new stuff has been pussified, along with everything else that worked or was a /of value.

I worked at General motors for 4 years, never seen that stuff* maybe they had pulled that fluid out the market when I got there, this was 2004. And we were using a fluid called (SEA FOAM) work ok I guess.

Now I work for FORD and we use MOTORCRAFT stuff to decarb. But this stuff will give you a headache if you smell it. Very foul odor.

 

[No manches"]

Berryman on the other hand it don't smell bad and works...just plain work's

 

[No manches"]

This the stuff we use at ford..
ECOBOOST engine tend to carbon build waffle cakes around intake valves..
Does it work to dissolve carbon? . yes! but not as fast and with less foul smell than berry's.

 

[DngBat7]

Surprised Clr was not mentioned for carbon. Works great for me, tho I immediately patch it out then use a mop soaked in #9 to neutralize, what ever is left. losso or Jb finish up in a few strokes. Tho correct me please if I’m doing something not right.

 

[rr2030]

I worked at General motors for 4 years, never seen that stuff* maybe they had pulled that fluid out the market when I got there, this was 2004. And we were using a fluid called (SEA FOAM) work ok I guess.

Now I work for FORD and we use MOTORCRAFT stuff to decarb. But this stuff will give you a headache if you smell it. Very foul odor.

Circa 1977 to 1985-ish, All the new stuff for all manufacturers is made by Chevron and is concentrated Techroline.

 

[No manches"]

Surprised Clr was not mentioned for carbon. Works great for me, tho I immediately patch it out then use a mop soaked in #9 to neutralize, what ever is left. losso or Jb finish up in a few strokes. Tho correct me please if I’m doing something not right.

CLR, Tried it"....don't like!.
Just my personal experiences..
And yet*, to each its own ; )

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Brushes are components. I neutralize in a bottle of water taped onto the table leg. If you dont use a bronze brush youre just fooling yourself if you think its getting clean

 

[No manches"]

Brushes are components. I neutralize in a bottle of water taped onto the table leg. If you dont use a bronze brush youre just fooling yourself if you think its getting clean

As much people care to disagree,.. sir" you are completely correct.

 

[tommeboy]

Original General Motors Top Engine Cleaner. The black and white can with the pull top. Warning on the label states "will cause nerve damage" We had skin contact often, it was difficult to avoid. Anything I post on this forum that does not make sense I blame on the cleaner. The new stuff has been pussified, along with everything else that worked or was a /of value.

I ran out of this 2 years ago. And your right about the new stuff, it does not work the same. this is why I started this thread.

 

[PhilC]

I use Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover and Cu+2 Copper Remover. I use the Dewey Copper Eliminator Rods, Jags and brushes. For heavy carbon removal, I use the C4 with a bronze brush.

Same here, except I use my standard Dewey rods with proof positive jags. Targets and Teslong verify my process.

 

[Hankpac]

I can honestly say I have tried everything and wipeout is by far the easiest and best.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I can honestly say I have tried everything and wipeout is by far the easiest and best.

But have you looked with a borescope?

 

[Iowa Fox]

I can honestly say I have tried everything and wipeout is by far the easiest and best.

Yep! Same here.