Annealing time for 6BR (induction)
- Thread starter marchx
- Start date
Put it inside the neck. It will work better. Just my two cents Tommy Mc
Why will it work better?
Ok, I painted the shoulder and the neck (outside). Tempilaq on both neck and shoulder turned brown in the same moment.
On the outside it changes color before the corect temp. Tommy Mc
Just got done putting together an induction heater/timer/coil cooling system. Now, I am doing 6mm Norma Dasher brass so....but 7.25 sec seems to be almost perfect ( with my annealer and my coil size)....if you'll watch the YouTube video on "stop using Tempilac" you'll see that the common belief that 750° isn't correct. The guy that does the video is showing that the 750° temp isn't enough for long enough to reach grain realignment. He states, and I believe him, that if you are going to properly anneal, it needs to be 900° to1000° for the very short duration we anneal for without affecting the case heads.....I've also found out, the number of turns, the tube or wire size of the coil and ESPECIALLY the depth the case is inserted into the coil matters....if I take a case and insert a 1/4" more into the coil, my brass actually starts to melt !!! But, if you have time, Reese on the Range videos go into depth on the process of annealing... Just in case you want to research further...rsbhunter. Sorry for the poor pic, but this is what my brass comes out like...
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JMayo
Silver $$ Contributor
Put a line down most of the case. See that the dull red almost happens to mouth without changing the color below the point you don't want to get to hot.
The great thing about induction annealing is the speed that the heat curve climbs....the heat is more centered on the neck/shoulder area....there is a point where the neck and very top of shoulder turns dull red..that is where I have the timer set to shut off. I use neck mandrels to expand the necks, and that and bullet seating is much more consistent since I started using induction....rsbhunter
It is both on inside and outside. It turned brown on the inside as well, but as you see tempilaq on the shoulder did not turn brown. Should it bother me?
JMayo
Silver $$ Contributor
It should burn black where flame hits it....
That's what i was saying a thin line all the way, little better than half.
It will burn where it's hot enough but won't where it's not. This will tell you if you're going too far down.
The mouth of the case will glow dull when you're a tad bit too hot or a tad bit too long in the flame.
That's what i was saying a thin line all the way, little better than half.
It will burn where it's hot enough but won't where it's not. This will tell you if you're going too far down.
The mouth of the case will glow dull when you're a tad bit too hot or a tad bit too long in the flame.
No, it will not if you are using induction annealer. Nothing glows.
Hmmm??? Sorry, that's not actually true. On several occasions I've watched an AMP annealer being used and the the necks defiantly did glow for just a fraction of a second. With the right amount of power applied to induction, and it can make metals glow rather easily I might add.
it DOES NOT GLOW IF YOU ANNEAL THE CASE FOR THE TIME NECESSARY FOR TEMPILAQ TO TURN BROWN. Of course, if you keep it annealing further it will start to glow, it is obvious.
6BRA
Gold $$ Contributor
Most shooters dont actually anneal. They pretend anneal. Go to a link on S HIDE over annealing...all kinds of fabulous info there. Turn the necks red and even the shoulders..no issue. The goal is consistent neck tension. You are not burning anything out of brass. If you cant find, pm me and I will give you the link tomorrow. Documented article with all sorts of professionals. Turn them red
x47Mike, I agree with what you're saying ...to a point. The only caveat is that some guys will heat too much of the case, or for to long. Eric Cortina, on youtube, shows how "over" annealing till the necks and shoulder are red, still had neck tension . As I mentioned, the internet keyboard commandos have convinced most shooters that 750° Tempilac is the method that works.....All I'm saying is that people need to research more....There is stress relieving brass, then there is annealing brass.....Without having special testing tools, you don't know that you are annealing.... IF you actually over anneal, your case necks will be dead soft, there will be almost 0 neck tension, and you will be able to pull the bullet out of the case by hand....but, the 750° myth will be around long after we're gone...rsbhunter
@x47Mike @rsbhunter you are right. I watched the Cortina's video and followed the discussion on the hide as well. I have been on the Hide years before I registered here. I think there is this primal fear of over annealing and it is part of the reason tempilaq method is so popular. In my case you got 750F at 2.7 s at the neck. I can set the annealing time at 5s and the case will not yet glow. So, the question would be if taking tempilaq as indicator you under anneal actually.
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