pro bed 2000 vs devcon 10110

[CJ6]

I really do use Play Doh for plugging holes. It works as well as clay and cleans up much easier. It dries out and you can just pick it out...no mess like clay.

Good shootin'. -Al

I use clay Al....As the grand kids would abuse me for using their Play-Doh.

 

[sqrlgtr]

Ordered some pro bed 2000 after all the good things that have been said.BTW the 2000 was about $30 cheaper for the same 1lb quantity.Appreciate everyone's comments and Im sure I will have more questions when I get started...

 

[Dusty Stevens]

The holes that are plugged permanently on glue in jobs, like the bolt release and action screw holes i plug with sticky tac. Its the stuff used to hang posters on walls like gum. It doesnt leech out when the action gets hot

 

[AlNyhus]

Ordered some pro bed 2000 after all the good things that have been said.BTW the 2000 was about $30 cheaper for the same 1lb quantity.Appreciate everyone's comments and Im sure I will have more questions when I get started...

There's a few quirks to watch for on both the Savages and the bedding block 700's. While the result you want is the same, the methods used to get there are different.

Good shootin' -Al

 

[butchlambert]

Nobody better than Al and Cigar Cop!

 

[sqrlgtr]

Seen it suggested to knock off the sharp corner where recoil lug buttts up to block. Is this necessary?

AL,
If you would enlighten me on the quirks it would be greatly appreciated.but undrstand if its like a trade secrete and you would rather not...

 

[AlNyhus]

If you would enlighten me on the quirks it would be greatly appreciated.but understand if its like a trade secret and you would rather not...

No trade secret as I don't do this for a living.

There's so much incorrect stuff floating around on doing a proper bedding job that it's hard to know where to start...... -Al

 

[sqrlgtr]

yeah I hear you Al.. I just keep thinking stress free and going to try and not induce any stress into the action and hope for the best....

 

[Liven The Dream]

I have used just about all the brands listed .
Started using Pro Bed 2000 a few years ago ,can't see buying anything different .
Will give Steel Bed a10-4 , but was hard to get for awhile.

 

[sqrlgtr]

Got conformation pro bed on its way. Guess I'll find out what I'm getting into before long...

 

[AlNyhus]

Got conformation pro bed on its way. Guess I'll find out what I'm getting into before long...

I'd be happy to assist you with the project. Which one are you doing first? -Al

 

[sqrlgtr]

This is pic off internet but its exact stock I’m going to tackle first.This is my 30br and it shoots great but someone has bubba’ed up the recoil lug pocket must of tried to make it alot bigger and the only contact is right behind recoil lug.The action itself really just makes contact only at the action screws, I can take a piece of paper and slide it under action everywhere else except right behind recoil lug and alitttle bit before back action screw.My thoughts was to relive those two spots and maybe make a little more room everywhere else except around action screws and bed it. I would try some of Ernies bedheads for the aluminum blocks but these are made a little different than the hs blocks which have a recess already there.Hope this makes sense Im not the best communicator .Al,Whats your thoughts on this?

 

[yukonal]

There should only be contact between the barreled action and stock, at the rear of the tang. That will keep your original elevation. Tape wrapped around the barrel, at the end of the forearm will float the rest of the action. You want SOME clearance under the action and barrel shank. This gives you room for the bedding compound.

I mud both the underside of the action and lug, and the inlet of the stock. I open up, and am generous with mud, all around the lug...especially with a wood stock.

Don't forget to rough up the inlet, and maybe even drill tiny, shallow holes in the wood (in the inlet area) for the mud to squeeze into, to help with the bond.

 

[hoz53]

Another thought would regular play dough work as good as modeling clay for plugging all the holes up in receiver and stock? I think I seen someone using it on one of the videos I had been watching but cant find it now...I've been watching a bunch of them trying to pick up a few pointers...

Also seen someone built a dam in front of recoil lug with clay to keep epoxy from getting under barrel does that work pretty good or is there a better way to do it?

i use plumbers putty lately. im sure something else is better but it works good for me.

 

[hpshooter]

i use plumbers putty lately. im sure something else is better but it works good for me.

Did that on the last one I did on the recommendation of a friend who has bedded quite a few rifles. It worked well and cleaned up easily.

 

[yukonal]

All I've used for over 10 years.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

My thoughts on this subject is that ALL epoxy shrinks as it cures. And just like a thread fit, clearance is clearance. If the epoxy shrinks and pulls away from the action .001" or .005" whats the difference? Its not touching in the spot either way. So I try to maintain even thickness of epoxy to keep the amount of shrinkage even, and sometimes if the inlet is real sloppy you want go back and do it a second time with a thinner more even layer. But since I do all my own inlets I can control this, unless Im working with a sporter stocks that been factory inletted but usually those are a Remington foot print which typically is easy to maintain an even layer on. So I really think the focus should be on the process more than the materials used. I keep track of a lot of rifles progress and have tried a lot of different things, if I thought that the type of epoxy used showed up on target Id gladly tell you. I have used, devcon steel putty, devcon steel liquid, devcon aluminum putty, devcon titanium putty, marine tex, pro bed, jb, and another aluminum based one I cant remember the name of.

 

[AlNyhus]

Yes...doing a pre-bed is mandatory if the epoxy thickness is going to vary greatly. No matter what material a person wants to use, it's worth the time to research the shrinkage rate of that material before to make your decision.

For me, the real test isn't when it's freshly done. How it hangs in there after being beaten on by recoil and exposed to wide temperature swings is the important thing.

My 2 cents worth...over a $3 cup of coffee. -Al

 

[jamesdmock]

Play Doh is what I use...works better than clay for holes.

Pay dough will work...BUT be careful. It has a large amount of salt added to keep little kids from eating it. We all know what salt does to metals. Just saying.

 

[AlNyhus]

Hi James. Yes, it does have a lot of salt content in it. That's one of the nice things about it for plugging holes. Once the action comes out of the bedding, the Play Doh dries quickly, which makes it easy to pick out.

Hope all is well! -Al