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Boretech Eliminator vs Pro Shot vs CLR

mikeeg02 said:
If you want to see how effective CLR is on carbon removal, put your muzzle brake in a cup of it. Watch it bubble and come out incredibly clean. Dont leave it in there for more than 4-5 minutes at a clip before you neutralize it. If you leave it in there too long, it will dull the finish on stainless. And there is a point to when it will pit it. (Week + for sure). A couple of machinist friends or mine who shoot, and work for ARL at Penn State did that to a barrel stub and cut it open and looked at it with a microscope at work. Apparently it wasnt pretty. It's amazing to watch a muzzle brake in a cup of it, and I know several people with good luck using it in barrels. But there's only so long it's ok to leave it in there before you better neutralize it.
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You know Prof. Getner ? R I P
 
ClassCat said:
I was testing 3 new batches of bullets i made during the week. 2 batches were Match grade , the other i need to re-test.
Good targets considering the condition.
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Interesting, seems like a lot of work so it must be rewarding.
J
 
Papa Charlie said:
I use Bore Tech, Hoppe's #9 and CLP in the following sequence:

1) Bore Tech Eliminator until minor blue (copper) showing
2) Dry patches until clean
3) Hoppe's # 9 on Bronze brush (periodically)
4) Dry patches
5) CLP on soaked patches until clear to remove carbon
6) Dry patches till clean and to remove excess lubricant

I only use the Hoppe's #9, if the barrel is really fouled.
The Bore Tech really does a job on the copper but not too well on carbon.
The CLP is a great all around cleaner and lubricant. It will remove the carbon and leave a protective coating. In fact, on my hand guns, I only use CLP.
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The problem I have with CLP is that it has Teflon in it. Teflon starts to break down around 450F *. One of the byproducts of breakdown is hydrofluoric acid, one of the nastiest acids there is. How hot does your bore get?

Lots of folks use CLP. It doesn't seem to be a problem. But for what it's worth, I don't want HF in my barrels...

~~~~~
* In another lifetime, I used to inspect factories for an insurance company. We had a customer using Teflon to mask some eight or nine pound steel part where they din't want some 600F dip/bath to work. We were called in due to respiratory issues, directly related as it turns out to the heat and Teflon. That's why I happen to know this crazy shite.
 
pcmacd said:
The problem I have with CLP is that it has Teflon in it. Teflon starts to break down around 450F *. One of the byproducts of breakdown is hydrofluoric acid, one of the nastiest acids there is. How hot does your bore get?

Lots of folks use CLP. It doesn't seem to be a problem. But for what it's worth, I don't want HF in my barrels...

~~~~~
* In another lifetime, I used to inspect factories for an insurance company. We had a customer using Teflon to mask some eight or nine pound steel part where they din't want some 600F dip/bath to work. We were called in due to respiratory issues, directly related as it turns out to the heat and Teflon. That's why I happen to know this crazy shite.
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While combustion temperatures can reach very high for very short periods of time, I doubt that it is sustained long enough to create the issue you are referring to. Further, I run several dry patches down the pipe after using CLP so only a slight residue remains.

I have used CLP for many years in both my rifles and pistols and have seen no ill effect from it after thousands of rounds.
 
pcmacd said:
The problem I have with CLP is that it has Teflon in it. Teflon starts to break down around 450F *. One of the byproducts of breakdown is hydrofluoric acid, one of the nastiest acids there is. How hot does your bore get?

Lots of folks use CLP. It doesn't seem to be a problem. But for what it's worth, I don't want HF in my barrels...

~~~~~
* In another lifetime, I used to inspect factories for an insurance company. We had a customer using Teflon to mask some eight or nine pound steel part where they din't want some 600F dip/bath to work. We were called in due to respiratory issues, directly related as it turns out to the heat and Teflon. That's why I happen to know this crazy shite.
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The Safety Data Sheet for Safariland CLP does not show any PTFE.https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...REV_D_-_North_America_061621.pdf?v=1623946131
 
urbanrifleman said:
I shot 100 rounds of Lapua 6br 90 grain ammo through my Rock Creek barrel.

Then I cleaned as normal with Bore Tech Eliminator.
View attachment 1057609

View attachment 1057606
Followed up with Pro Shot that did nothing better than Bore tech.

View attachment 1057608

Followed by CLR. Which did remove something that was light brown. I am assuming the stubborn carbon, but I do not have a scope.
View attachment 1057607

My conclusion is Bore Tech is still my fave and it, combined with a JB scrub probably cannot be improved much. CLR does seem to soften carbon as advertised.
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Showing pictures with the Teslong bore scope is real world, helps others to see Reality also. Bradley, you have the know how and the skill sets to post the teslong pics, easily and with little effort....kick your game up a notch! The Teslong pics are real world, showing patches is the equivalent of Hocus Pocus!

More often than not, patches can be a FALSE positive and should not be depended on. When the carbon gets hard, it WILL NOT show on a patch or just show a very light grey. You will be goaded into telling yourself, "Good Enough".

I have every product that Wipe Out, Bore Tec, KG-12, Shooter's choice, all Montana Extreme products.

The Money Bet goes to good brushes and changing them often!

Letting that carbon get super hard means you replace barrels more often, and chase accuracy loss more often. Teslong bore scopes can be had for $80.

R #15
Varget
H4895

require your best efforts in Carbon removal knowledge and application techniques.

Become your own expert with your particular shooting discipline and style with chemicals and brushes you have.....Teslong bore scope is a very modest investment in keeping your barrels up and running their very best with the longest barrel life.

Be careful with abrasives, they can and will open up your throat dia and round land's edges. Montana Copper cream is one of the best, and I use this on patches when absolutely necessary.
 
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AckleymanII said:
More often than not, patches can be a FALSE positive and should not be depended on. When the carbon gets hard, it WILL NOT show on a patch or just show a very light grey. You will be goaded into telling yourself, "Good Enough".
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That is exactly what I've found in using a borescope. After a few hundred rounds and cleaning with 15 strokes of a newish bronze brush every 50, there is a huge amount of carbon left in the barrel after dry patches come out clean.
I also have to say that the amount of carbon in the bore does not visibly change between 15 strokes of a brush vs 30 strokes.
 
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