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PAC NOR featherweight model 70 fliers

Its very unlikely that factory ammo will be optimally tuned in your rifle or even that it will stay that way in different conditions.

If its a hunting rig you will want to shoot it in the conditions your going to hunt in (same temp and configuration)

I'd suggest shooting groups in those conditions and seeing which groups the tightest and fiddling with your rear action screw torque settings to see if that can bring the last shot reliably into the group. This works well on savage rifles not sure about 70s.
 
Put all the makeup you want on a pig and it is still a pig. That is a beautiful rifle and it shoots just like it was designed to do. it is a hunting rifle not a benchrest rifle.

Like most hunting rifles, the first will be at point of aim and the second will be very close to that point but the third shot is anybody's guess. These rifles are not meant for sustained fire. They are one trick ponies. I call them pencil barrels and that is not a knock on them. They are usually carried in the woods and weight is an important consideration. When hunting, if you miss with the first shot, in most cases you won't get a second chance, let alone a third.
 
MANY, Model 7's. no matter what the caliber have issues similar or WORSE than the OP's.

All issues, were SOLVED with the addition of a Gentry muzzle break. I can only guess two things:

A. recoil reduction by 40-60% helped tremendously

B. the additional weight on the end of the very whippy barrels tamed the harmonics.

Rifles went from shooting huge groups to less than 1/2" in the Model 7's, 243, 7/08, and 308, impressive accuracy to say the least with the Gentry muzzle break on the barrel's end....nothing short of amazing.
 
I just don’t understand why it’s trying to group 1/2 moa then throwing one out turning it into 1 moa

If you were to shoot a 10-shot group it wouldn't look like a flyer. That barrel contour isn't likely to be a consistent 1/2 MOA shooter. It will likely shoot sub MOA consistently. If you obsess about load development you might shrink your worst groups to .6 to .7 MOA.

I see this all the time. My job is developing loads for customer's rifles. I commonly work on $6 to $10k rigs. Recently I developed a load for a lightweight 280 Ackley. It was a very nice rifle but had a light contour carbon wrapped barrel, which is the absolute worst choice for accuracy. This rifle was a consistent .7 to .8 rifle. That's with powder measured to the kernel and seating depth to within .001". I finally managed to squeeze it to .6, but that is all that barrel would shoot.

Your M-70 FWT contour--which I like a lot--is very similar to these light contour carbon barrels. Now there is a lot to like about a lightweight rifle that shoots .7 to .8. It is no handicap for hunting at any distance, assuming you can hold the rifle steady.

If you do want to obsess over load development--something I do only for my BR rifles--then you need to definitely run a seating ladder. You may also need to change powder or even the bullet. I know that's hard right now with component availability, but that is often what it takes.
 
get in the habit of lapping the action screws to the pillers they will be used in, also not a fan of leaving bedding compound over the pillers on the bottom., id also remove alittle more bedding under the barrel.
 
Personally I would not relieve the bedding on the sides of the receiver. Essentially you have nothing keeping the action pointing straight. You could just try shiming it for a test. Just a thought.

Paul
The round sides of action are bedded and sides of lug are bedded. Only thing on sides I taped was the flat section
 
If you were to shoot a 10-shot group it wouldn't look like a flyer. That barrel contour isn't likely to be a consistent 1/2 MOA shooter. It will likely shoot sub MOA consistently. If you obsess about load development you might shrink your worst groups to .6 to .7 MOA.

I see this all the time. My job is developing loads for customer's rifles. I commonly work on $6 to $10k rigs. Recently I developed a load for a lightweight 280 Ackley. It was a very nice rifle but had a light contour carbon wrapped barrel, which is the absolute worst choice for accuracy. This rifle was a consistent .7 to .8 rifle. That's with powder measured to the kernel and seating depth to within .001". I finally managed to squeeze it to .6, but that is all that barrel would shoot.

Your M-70 FWT contour--which I like a lot--is very similar to these light contour carbon barrels. Now there is a lot to like about a lightweight rifle that shoots .7 to .8. It is no handicap for hunting at any distance, assuming you can hold the rifle steady.

If you do want to obsess over load development--something I do only for my BR rifles--then you need to definitely run a seating ladder. You may also need to change powder or even the bullet. I know that's hard right now with component availability, but that is often what it takes.
I’ve got some Berger 168 classic hunters I was planing to use I was just using the other bullets to get some rounds through it before starting load development. Berger’s have always shot better than anything else for me and I haven’t even tinkered with powder weight and seating depth yet. Hopefully it’ll improve.
 
get in the habit of lapping the action screws to the pillers they will be used in, also not a fan of leaving bedding compound over the pillers on the bottom., id also remove alittle more bedding under the barrel.
The bottom of pillars needed an angle milled on them and I’m just a red neck bricklayer without the means or capabilities to do that and line them up perfectly flat with the bottom metal or I would have. What do you mean lap the screws to the pillars?
 
Couple other things to check:
-What's the I.D. of the pillars?
-Any signs of the screws making any contact with the I.D. of the pillar?
-I'd remove the 'C' from the bedding so that it doesn't influence anything.
-I'd relieve the sides of the bedding in the recoil lug mortise.
-Make sure the area on the bottom of the receiver that 'drops down' for the trigger (ahead of the action tang) isn't touching the front of the stock ahead of the bedded rear tang area.

Good shootin'. -Al
 
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Couple other things to check:
-What's the I.D. of the pillars?
-Any signs of the screws making any contact with the I.D. of the pillar?
-I'd remove the 'C' from the bedding so that it doesn't influence anything.
-I'd relieve the sides of the bedding in the recoil lug mortise.
-Make sure the area on the bottom of the receiver that 'drops down' for the trigger (ahead of the action tang) isn't touching the front of the stock ahead of the bedded rear tang area.

Good shootin'. -Al
Not sure the id of pillars but the screws have slight clearance and are centered. I wrapped them in electrical tape until they fit tight inside pillar and bedded them like that at same time I bedded action. I’ll try everything else you mentioned. The rear part of action below tang you mentioned did not get taped and neither did sides of lug. Think that could make a difference?
 
The bottom of pillars needed an angle milled on them and I’m just a red neck bricklayer without the means or capabilities to do that and line them up perfectly flat with the bottom metal or I would have. What do you mean lap the screws to the pillars?

They don't need to be angle milled. I have shot many very small groups at 1000 yds with rifles I have built myself, to include pillar bedding. As long as it is bedded stress free and the screws aren't touching the pillars you are fine. I am assuming that the bedding job is reasonable as well and there aren't huge gaps anywhere.
 
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Not sure the id of pillars but the screws have slight clearance and are centered. I wrapped them in electrical tape until they fit tight inside pillar and bedded them like that at same time I bedded action. I’ll try everything else you mentioned. The rear part of action below tang you mentioned did not get taped and neither did sides of lug. Think that could make a difference?
The only part of the lug that should be making contact is the rear surface. I like to see at least .020 clearance everywhere else. If the bottom of the lug is bedded tight, that needs to have at least .030 minimum on the Model 70's. Make sure and take a needle point file or something similar and radius/roll over all the 90 degree corners and edges in the bedding....another cause of bedding problems. You can see the edge relieving in this pic:

QCmMkeJl.jpg


If the trigger boss area of the receiver just ahead of the rear tang is bearing against the stock, you in effect have a second recoil lug....bad JuJu for accuracy. This is another common issue with the Model 70's.

Fbs8F7Yl.jpg


Give that a try before doing anything else. Except wind flags....;) -Al
 
The only part of the lug that should be making contact is the rear surface. I like to see at least .020 clearance everywhere else. If the bottom of the lug is bedded tight, that needs to have at least .030 minimum on the Model 70's. Make sure and take a needle point file or something similar and radius/roll over all the 90 degree corners and edges in the bedding....another cause of bedding problems. You can see the edge relieving in this pic:

QCmMkeJl.jpg


If the trigger boss area of the receiver just ahead of the rear tang is bearing against the stock, you in effect have a second recoil lug....bad JuJu for accuracy. This is another common issue with the Model 70's.

Fbs8F7Yl.jpg


Give that a try before doing anything else. Except wind flags....;) -Al
What kind of tool do you recommend to relieve those places. Small file and chisel?
 
What kind of tool do you recommend to relieve those places. Small file and chisel?
Nothing too elaborate...no chisels, no Dremels. You can pick up a small file set from most any tool place...Harbor Freight, etc. Even a nail file or a fingernail sanding stick will work to relieve the edges. -Al
 
Shooting procedure such as downward pressure on the front bag, rearward pressure into the shoulder, weight of cheek weld all impact FTW rifles. The resistance to recoil affects the guns behavior in the bags. One thing that will consistently upset my FTWs is if the front sling stud gradually slides into the front bag (after a couple shots), or rests on it during a shot. That shot will be a flier every time.

A tip from those that shoot NULA rifles is to use a very soft front bag, like a terry cloth on top of a normal bag.

Making the gun behave consistently in the bags will help your groups. Transitioning to a bipod or monopod for hunting takes some practice to recreate the lab results in field conditions.
 
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