• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Going back to dry vibratory "tumbling"

I agree, the AMP is expensive, I went with if because I didn't want to mess with flame. It is a personal choice, and I wouldn't want to pressure you. A lot of reloading is just that, personal choice. We find what works for us and we go with it and we modify it to suit our needs. I put up in my profile that I shoot F Open to give people some idea of what I am doing, there are some that are casual shooters that don't go to some of the lengths we go to to shoot well. I am really still learning, just finished my 3rd year of Competition, I am not in the same League as the You Tube Shooters, I am just happy when I don't finish last. I seek to improve. I have tumbled since the beginning, I don't find it as messy as wet tumbling, I just dump and sift then I am ready for the next step.

I shoot 1000 yd BR and simply wipe the neck/shoulder junction with 0000 steel wool before annealing with my AMP. The one time I did clean with media immediately proceeded my worst showing ever at a LR BR match.
 
a couple of key points in this thread. What you do, do after EVERY firing to maintain consistency.
Tumble
Anneal
Chamfer
Deburr
Prime with FA Adjustable Hand primer

One big improvement I made was switching to a Hopper and weighing with the 120i, I am confident my loads are consistent.
 
I shoot 1000 yd BR and simply wipe the neck/shoulder junction with 0000 steel wool before annealing with my AMP. The one time I did clean with media immediately proceeded my worst showing ever at a LR BR match.
What would cause cleaning with media do that? I may experiment for the spring matches
 
What would cause cleaning with media do that? I may experiment for the spring matches

I think it was a small factor. But I hadn't been cleaning at all and had been placing well. Then I changed barrels and cleaned the cases with corn cob, and shot poorly.

As I was going through what I did wrong/different, one of the things was vibratory cleaning with corn cob. I am not at all convinced I got all the corn cob out of the cases.

Regardless, all is fixed now. A few quick twists of the case with 0000 steel wool cleans the neck and shoulder area nicely. And I have have shot my smallest groups ever......
 
I think it was a small factor. But I hadn't been cleaning at all and had been placing well. Then I changed barrels and cleaned the cases with corn cob, and shot poorly.

As I was going through what I did wrong/different, one of the things was vibratory cleaning with corn cob. I am not at all convinced I got all the corn cob out of the cases.

Regardless, all is fixed now. A few quick twists of the case with 0000 steel wool cleans the neck and shoulder area nicely. And I have have shot my smallest groups ever......
I use a can of air and a Pipe cleaner through the primer hole to get the media out.
 
I have been using a Bench Source for 8 years or so. I do it after every firing, take 10 minutes for 100 or so cases. I've seen them used for 400ish.
I also use the BS every firing. Takes about 3-4 seconds per case. Its fast and easy.

I also use a wet tumbler, usually with no pins.
 
I use a can of air and a Pipe cleaner through the primer hole.

I know that many will take a lot of time cleaning cases and cleaning barrels, and that is fine. Many enjoy doing those things in pursuit of their hobby.

I don't. I am always looking for a more efficient way. I try to avoid tasks that take extra time but don't contribute to smaller groups. This is a constantly moving target.

So I think that using steel wool on the necks and shoulders helps annealing a little, but heavier cleaning seems to be more for looks.
 
Let me ask a couple of questions.

What advantages do you gain from cleaning your brass?

Is it possible that cleaning your brass could actually be detrimental to accuracy and consistency in reloading?

Bart
Not sure, I always clean the brass and my chamber to ensure the rounds feed smoothly. Plus with a clean case I can tell if something is wrong like a sooty neck. It's not scientific for sure. Do you have an example of why not too clean?
 
The only reason I can see for tumbling brass is to get grit off the piece of brass that fell off the bench to the ground and had grit that could scratch the dies
 
After many years of handloading I have finalized my procedure. I first deprime the cases then put them into an ultrasonic cleaner (or a bucket) for 1hr. The solution is 1/4 teaspoon of Lemishine per pint of water and a small amount of Armor All Wash & Wax (4-5 drops). Dawn also works OK (4-5 drops). After 1 hr, rinse the solution off the cases. Then into a Lyman Cyclone case dryer for 1 hr. Even with all 5 trays filled with .308 cases it only takes 1 hr to be completely dry. So far this has turned out to be a great case dryer. 30 mins in the oven at 250 degrees also works. Then they go into a large vibratory case tumbler for 90 mins. I use Zilla Ground English Walnut Shells Desert Blend from Amazon. Your local pet store might also have this. Before putting the brass into the media I put a little (1 half cap full) NuFinish car polish in the media and let it mix in for 15 mins or so. Then put in the brass. There is hardly no dust when using NuFinish. Also put in a USED dryer sheet cut into quarters. This will help collect any media dust or dirt. After 90 mins in the media put the brass in a media separator. Then I put the brass in an old large bath towel, grab both ends and "tumble" the brass for about 5-10 seconds. That's it. The Lemishine does a great job of removing the carbon deposits and the walnut shell tumbling puts the final shine on the brass. You may fine a very little primer residue in the pocket of a few cases but that won't hurt anything.
 
I used lizard media also. Used dryer sheets ripped up grab some of the dust. Fyi

I have a NIB Bench source for sale..pm me
 
Not sure, I always clean the brass and my chamber to ensure the rounds feed smoothly. Plus with a clean case I can tell if something is wrong like a sooty neck. It's not scientific for sure. Do you have an example of why not too clean?
Grunt,

Yes, because I don’t want to remove the carbon inside the neck. The carbon Acts as a lubricate when seating Bullets and keeps seating pressures consistent. This is one of the keys to attaining a high degree of accuracy in short and long range shooting.

Just clean the outside of the neck with steel wool and brush the inside case neck with a bore brush.

Most of the guys that I know that clean their cases end up applying some sort of lubricant to the inside of their necks in order to have consistent seating pressures. It’s just unnecessary steps and kind of chasing your tail.

Barts
 
I''m looking at Bench-Source too. But its some $600.


p.s. i get no compensation
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,070
Messages
2,189,523
Members
78,688
Latest member
C120
Back
Top