Italian Olive Wood Gunstock

[joshb]

I dont have a scientific method of determining its denisty at the moment but so far it cuts like maple, a bit on the harder side.
I purchased this wood from a gentleman named Steve@Faroutfinds.com. Great guy and a pleasure to work with.
This is probably my 20th gunstock. Some have been failures or proof of concept and others were recieved well by folks.
I am not in the Houston Area. I am near Charlotte NC, I do not provide lessons, but no one has ever asked. I think @joshb has a spectacular thread that I have learned a lot from, I've contributed a little to that thread but Josh has done a great job outlining some steps that really help. You could also search my username and look up a thread I did a while back that outline some of my earlier procedures in my learning process.

Aw, shucks! Made me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. Thanks for that! You’re doing a fine job and I watch your work to pick up some ideas!

 

[CStuck]

Aw, shucks! Made me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. Thanks for that! You’re doing a fine job and I watch your work to pick up some ideas!

You are very welcome good sir!

To me this is all about sharing knowledge, if we don't share this information some how, it will be lost to time. We have all learned in different ways, I know I have made some mistakes and made some trophies. If I can help one person have the confidence or assist them in their own adventure of crafting a stock, I am all for it!

I appreciate your kind words as always @joshb, I am also very grateful to have such warm support from all on Accurate Shooter. Its really a wonderful place to learn and trade ideas with like minded folks.

 

[epc308]

Oso: Here’s 13 coats of hand rubbed Arrowood oil, starting with raw wood. It’s as smooth and shiny as a piece of glass.View attachment 1279399 You should try some on your stock.

joshb, having seen the praise bestowed upon it by you and others, I have a bottle of Arrowood ordered. Now, if it will just show up so I can do some trials on scraps.

 

[joshb]

joshb, having seen the praise bestowed upon it by you and others, I have a bottle of Arrowood ordered. Now, if it will just show up so I can do some trials on scraps.

Yay!! You won’t regret it!
Two points for using the Arrowood:
Shake it well and often. It separates quickly, like oil and vinegar.
Thin coats unless it’s the first coat on raw wood. I soak heavily on the first coat then let it dry for a couple days. Also, for raw wood, sand to at least 1000 grit for the best glossy finish.
On old oiled stocks, I lite sand with 800 or 1000 and do lite coats.
You can also freshen up lacquered and Eurethaned stocks doing the same thing.

 

[epc308]

Yay!! You won’t regret it!
Two points for using the Arrowood:
Shake it well and often. It separates quickly, like oil and vinegar.
Thin coats unless it’s the first coat on raw wood. I soak heavily on the first coat then let it dry for a couple days. Also, for raw wood, sand to at least 1000 grit for the best glossy finish.
On old oiled stocks, I lite sand with 800 or 1000 and do lite coats.
You can also freshen up lacquered and Eurethaned stocks doing the same thing.

Thanks for the tips. Do you sand, steel wool, etc., between coats, or just smear on a bit and rub like crazy?
Sand to 1000?
Guess I need to go to the store as my current choices only go to 600.

 

[joshb]

Thanks for the tips. Do you sand, steel wool, etc., between coats, or just smear on a bit and rub like crazy?
Sand to 1000?
Guess I need to go to the store as my current choices only go to 600.

The finer you go, the faster you get to a nice gloss with the oil. That mahogany stock was sanded to 600 and then oiled. I put on about 5 coats of oil before I gave in, drove 1/2 hour and bought more 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit. Then I wet sanded the whole stock.
You brought up a crucial thought. “Wet sanding”. I’ll wet sand if I have open “unfilled” pores, and it’s not fun. If I get really OCD about it, I’ll spend hours wet sanding. You have to create a slurry of oil and wood dust that fills the pores. Use your finger, not a cloth, to smooth the oil after you sand an area. A cloth is too soft and will pull the slurry out of the pores. Then you let it dry, take a look and see that you missed some pores and have to do it again.
On my first few stocks, I’d sand, then blow off all the dust with air pressure. I learned to carefully leave the dust on the stock and hit it with oil.
Of course, the best option is to use a good wood filler between sanding with 600 and 800, but that has it’s own level of frustration.

 

[Bc'z]

The finer you go, the faster you get to a nice gloss with the oil. That mahogany stock was sanded to 600 and then oiled. I put on about 5 coats of oil before I gave in, drove 1/2 hour and bought more 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit. Then I wet sanded the whole stock.
You brought up a crucial thought. “Wet sanding”. I’ll wet sand if I have open “unfilled” pores, and it’s not fun. If I get really OCD about it, I’ll spend hours wet sanding. You have to create a slurry of oil and wood dust that fills the pores. Use your finger, not a cloth, to smooth the oil after you sand an area. A cloth is too soft and will pull the slurry out of the pores. Then you let it dry, take a look and see that you missed some pores and have to do it again.
On my first few stocks, I’d sand, then blow off all the dust with air pressure. I learned to carefully leave the dust on the stock and hit it with oil.
Of course, the best option is to use a good wood filler between sanding with 600 and 800, but that has it’s own level of frustration.

And that sir is why the word PAIN is in paint!
Josh outstanding job, alway enjoy seeing your work and craftsmanship.
I'm still curious if a pedestal buffer with the big floppy flannel wheels would help.

 

[Oso]

Josh have you ever considered using Waterlox. From my turning experience it is a favorite (original formula with no filler). Works great for wet sanding to fill pores with sanding slurry. Then just keep adding additional layers and lightly sanding until you hit desired level of gloss and buff away!!!

Guys come on over.... I got a buffer that would would like some company. I'll put on a pot of coffee... when should I expect you?!

 

[epc308]

The finer you go, the faster you get to a nice gloss with the oil. That mahogany stock was sanded to 600 and then oiled. I put on about 5 coats of oil before I gave in, drove 1/2 hour and bought more 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit. Then I wet sanded the whole stock.
You brought up a crucial thought. “Wet sanding”. I’ll wet sand if I have open “unfilled” pores, and it’s not fun. If I get really OCD about it, I’ll spend hours wet sanding. You have to create a slurry of oil and wood dust that fills the pores. Use your finger, not a cloth, to smooth the oil after you sand an area. A cloth is too soft and will pull the slurry out of the pores. Then you let it dry, take a look and see that you missed some pores and have to do it again.
On my first few stocks, I’d sand, then blow off all the dust with air pressure. I learned to carefully leave the dust on the stock and hit it with oil.
Of course, the best option is to use a good wood filler between sanding with 600 and 800, but that has it’s own level of frustration.

johb, thanks again for your input. It’s always good to pick someone’s brain that has used a product.
I’ve done just enough stock work to be a danger to myself and others, lol.
Getting an the *in the wood*, rather than *on the wood* finish, has been the pinnacle of frustration. I prefer a satin finish, but it has been elusive with former products.
My teacher used Pro Custom Oil from Brownell’s. It wet sands and fills in well, but getting the final look I want has always been tough bc it wants to finish at gloss rather than satin.
My first amateur stock work was done with Tru Oil that came in a kit came with a bottle of filler. That didn’t work too bad, but the filler I tried later didn’t work the same at all, so I quit even trying. I had read of wet sanding, but had varying results being a total novice.
My instructor, thankfully, taught me the right way to wet sand and use the slurry properly.
The bottle of Arrowood arrived yesterday. Time to dig out some walnut scraps and start experimenting.

 

[epc308]

Josh have you ever considered using Waterlox. From my turning experience it is a favorite (original formula with no filler). Works great for wet sanding to fill pores with sanding slurry. Then just keep adding additional layers and lightly sanding until you hit desired level of gloss and buff away!!!

Guys come on over.... I got a buffer that would would like some company. I'll put on a pot of coffee... when should I expect you?!

View attachment 1280240

Oso, don’t be teasing. Come on over? Depends how far you are from NE Kansas…

 

[Oso]

Just a couple miles nor

Oso, don’t be teasing. Come on over? Depends how far you are from NE Kansas…

Just on the other side of OK/AR... when you hit the Gulf of Mexico you have just passed me, turn around a head back north an hour. I'll start the smoker.

 

[joshb]

And that sir is why the word PAIN is in paint!
Josh outstanding job, alway enjoy seeing your work and craftsmanship.
I'm still curious if a pedestal buffer with the big floppy flannel wheels would help.

Brett, you’d have to use this stuff to get it. You just rub it in with a bare palm or your finger. 10 minutes a coat. I’d do a coat every morning over coffee. I could have used fewer coats if I had sanded the bare stock to 1000 . No buffing really needed.
Oso: If you mean the Tung oil? Then yes, I’ve used various brands. Preacher told me about the Arrowood. I tried it and stuck with it.

 

[joshb]

johb, thanks again for your input. It’s always good to pick someone’s brain that has used a product.
I’ve done just enough stock work to be a danger to myself and others, lol.
Getting an the *in the wood*, rather than *on the wood* finish, has been the pinnacle of frustration. I prefer a satin finish, but it has been elusive with former products.
My teacher used Pro Custom Oil from Brownell’s. It wet sands and fills in well, but getting the final look I want has always been tough bc it wants to finish at gloss rather than satin.
My first amateur stock work was done with Tru Oil that came in a kit came with a bottle of filler. That didn’t work too bad, but the filler I tried later didn’t work the same at all, so I quit even trying. I had read of wet sanding, but had varying results being a total novice.
My instructor, thankfully, taught me the right way to wet sand and use the slurry properly.
The bottle of Arrowood arrived yesterday. Time to dig out some walnut scraps and start experimenting.

Getting a satin finish is easy. Sand to 600, then put on as many coats as you need to get it. If you get too glossy, just hit it with 2000.