Italian Olive Wood Gunstock
- Thread starter CStuck
- Start date
That depends. Some people like a hand rubbed oil finish which was the traditional finish applied to walnut rifle stocks for a couple centuries with tung, danish, or linseed. Synthetic finish I believe was first introduced by Remington who was associated with Dupont who marketed polyurethane in 1956.
I’ve built from scratch several electric bass guitars and repaired a few acoustic guitars, violins, and one double bass. I’ve used Franklin synthetic horse hide glue for the violins and double bass. For the electric basses I use cellulosic lacquer for the body and necks. Easy to repair and lets the wood breath. I use fish glue for frets and string nuts if they will need a future replacement. I really cringe at people who glue in frets and string nut with cyanoacrylate glues. As for my bolt action rifle and bolt action handguns, I’m totally synthetic stocks. I do love the look of highly figured walnut stocks, but my firearms are used for hunting, and it’s not as painful if I scratch or dent one as apposed to a wood stock. Here is one I repainted last year. Thanks to Bz’s for informing me about a brand of spray can of satin clear epoxy, it now has a durable top coat.
These are rifles that I enjoy a slow quiet dance... a relationship... there is nothing that compares to a quality, balanced, wood stock. Its like cradling Sophia Loren in her prime.
And then there are my rifles that I take hunting. Metal, Polymer and Synthetic... impervious to rough handling, bad weather, and willing to use as an oar in a pinch. I don't care or fuss with these modern brutes... no crying over dings our the incompetent driving of my brother-in-law. I am more worried about the scope. If I feel like going low-key then I bring a CZ527 or Howa Mini... they feel delicate enough and are handy field guns. Painting one of these modern firearms isn't nearly as exciting as seeing Bc'z next creation.
And then there are my rifles that I take hunting. Metal, Polymer and Synthetic... impervious to rough handling, bad weather, and willing to use as an oar in a pinch. I don't care or fuss with these modern brutes... no crying over dings our the incompetent driving of my brother-in-law. I am more worried about the scope. If I feel like going low-key then I bring a CZ527 or Howa Mini... they feel delicate enough and are handy field guns. Painting one of these modern firearms isn't nearly as exciting as seeing Bc'z next creation.
I agree that 99% of time schnabels are either heavy/clumsy, detract from the lines of the gun, and get in the way. When I think Schnabel, I am referring to the rare unicorn that even you would want to own.... elegant & delicate. The lion's head schnabel was a joke... I would not want that.
Its like a Mannlicher stock... other than for the collector of heritage/history. I look at them and think how it is clunky and most likely is detrimental to the accuracy of rifle. I have only seen 1 or 2 that made me stop and seriously consider my position.
Not everything has to be driven solely by functionality. Otherwise, why are we all admiring Bc'z fantastic creations.... the bullet doesn't care what the stock looks like.
Not trying to take away from OP or derail thread...
I'm working on a stock now that has me puzzled in how it was even competitive. The toe was lumpy n bumpy, thinking this might induce vertical, the center of fore end resembled a river flowing into a lake, the lake being on the critical end where it sits in the bags.
I can't help but wonder if this will shoot better when I'm done
What finish did you use on the Claro?
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
Every stock shoots better when you’re done with it! I’ve seen a few crappy composite stocks.
a mix of japan dry and boiled linseed oil. It is no where near finished, just sanded enough and a light bit of oil rubbing to make it picture worthy
50/50? I’ve cut linseed oil before, but it was with mineral spirits. Never thought of using Japan dryer.
Liven The Dream
Gold $$ Contributor
Just Fantastic !!
I have a new Jack Russell terroir puppy I’ll trade for some of that wood.
Where can I get some?
Max Evans
832-414-0293
MJEvans48@hotmail.com
Where can I get some?
Max Evans
832-414-0293
MJEvans48@hotmail.com
shooterjon
Silver $$ Contributor
Well - Being Italian AND loving Olives you sure seem to have a winner!
Ok I’m a wood nut, how dense is the wood.
How can I get some, was that your first gunstock, also are you in the Houston area and what do you charge for lessons.
Max J Evans
Mjevans48@hotmail.com
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
You could read my “Do it yourself stockmaking “ thread in the Guns and Gunsmithing section of this board to get a few pointers.
I dont have a scientific method of determining its denisty at the moment but so far it cuts like maple, a bit on the harder side.
I purchased this wood from a gentleman named Steve@Faroutfinds.com. Great guy and a pleasure to work with.
This is probably my 20th gunstock. Some have been failures or proof of concept and others were recieved well by folks.
I am not in the Houston Area. I am near Charlotte NC, I do not provide lessons, but no one has ever asked. I think @joshb has a spectacular thread that I have learned a lot from, I've contributed a little to that thread but Josh has done a great job outlining some steps that really help. You could also search my username and look up a thread I did a while back that outline some of my earlier procedures in my learning process.
Update on the one of the Olive pieces 
Using a 2 part epoxy resin (US Composities 635) to bond the 3 pieces of wood and the two layers of carbon fiber. I thought since olive is a bit more prone to twisting and warping that the carbon could help stabilize and provide some strenght. I dont know if it will actually help but the idea seemed cool enough to give it a try.
The carbon fiber is a bit tough on the cutters, I used an older box core bit to remove the bulk of the inlet and am using a newer sharper cutter for the final passes.
Using a 2 part epoxy resin (US Composities 635) to bond the 3 pieces of wood and the two layers of carbon fiber. I thought since olive is a bit more prone to twisting and warping that the carbon could help stabilize and provide some strenght. I dont know if it will actually help but the idea seemed cool enough to give it a try.
The carbon fiber is a bit tough on the cutters, I used an older box core bit to remove the bulk of the inlet and am using a newer sharper cutter for the final passes.
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Not 50/50 mix, more like 1/2 ounce linseed oil and a few drops of the japan dry. I found if you mix too much Japan dry it will coagulate and become more of a gel and its not really usable. I would recommend doing a few test batches with small quantities until you find the right mix for you. I never really measure it out, just go by eye and feel.
Thank you. That clears things up.
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