Looking for a S & W Revolver Gunsmith

[mongo chicago]

Why not send it to S&W?

Call first, they won't fix anything after a certain age. Had an old model 48 that needed a firing pin and they refused it.

 

[centershot]

Thanks to 243 and hp shooter. I thought this sounded ridiculous that the ejector rod would come unscrewed. Took my cylinder off and it was loose THREE TURNS!! Works just fine now. Thanks, again to those shooters and this great forum.
Gary

 

[divingin]

If it is actually the center rod, that is a fitted part (as is the shroud, to some degree.) If it's too long, you will get the throw needed to release the front plunger, but the pin at the rear will not clear the recoil shield.

If the rod is too short, it won't push the front plunger out of the rod, and that will lock things up as well.

edit: I should say this is based an a S&W 357 revolver; I'm assuming yours works the same way.

 

[TheOtherZilla]

Jim Milks at http://www.innovativecustomguns.com/ rebarreled a 5 screw K22 and repaired the cylinder ratchet and timed another 5 screw K22.
I remember his charges were fair and he brought two cool old revolvers back to life.
I checked with several known pistol/revolver smiths and nobody wanted to touch them. Smith and Wesson won’t work on 5 screws.

The tough part is UPS charged $95 one way and that was a few years ago. A FFL could ship for less.

Contacted em and they said no.

 

[centershot]

Thought I would share my find. It was in un fired condition when I bought it. Although it only came with target stocks the optional,according to the IPB, target hammer and trigger were installed. Right now the only negative is that the hammer selector can not be moved with thumb pressure alone. Need a block of wood and a mallet to move it. Lubed the heck out of it, even with Hobo oil, and it will not loosen up.

 

[Chaotik]

Lots of good suggestions.
I had several S&W revolvers extensively worked on my Tom Kilhoffer in the early 1990's.

https://tkcustom.com/pages/contact-us

 

[mongo chicago]

Thought I would share my find. It was in un fired condition when I bought it. Although it only came with target stocks the optional,according to the IPB, target hammer and trigger were installed. Right now the only negative is that the hammer selector can not be moved with thumb pressure alone. Need a block of wood and a mallet to move it. Lubed the heck out of it, even with Hobo oil, and it will not loosen up.

Try Kroil??

 

[KMart]

Thanks to 243 and hp shooter. I thought this sounded ridiculous that the ejector rod would come unscrewed. Took my cylinder off and it was loose THREE TURNS!! Works just fine now. Thanks, again to those shooters and this great forum.
Gary

Sounds like that was easier than getting an INS out and back into its rack.

 

[centershot]

Try Kroil??

Yes, I tried that too.

 

[centershot]

Sounds like that was easier than getting an INS out and back into its rack.

When I think back about the mechanical, analog stuff we had and the laser stuff they have now that will fit into your hand, ya it was a ball buster.

 

[tangocharlie]

Try Bob Cogan at Accurate Plating & Weaponry. He has worked on a couple of S&W revolvers for me.

 

[243Lapua]

Thanks to 243 and hp shooter. I thought this sounded ridiculous that the ejector rod would come unscrewed. Took my cylinder off and it was loose THREE TURNS!! Works just fine now. Thanks, again to those shooters and this great forum.
Gary

I think Brownells actually sells a tool to tighten the rod. Or you can use a wood cloth hanger to pinch the knurled part and snug it tight. Good you got it resolved. And the problem with the selector I would definitely disassemble the revolver and soak that trigger part or selector. I disassembled my revolvers multiple times with no problem. A lot of YouTube videos out there. And use a good set of gunsmith screwdrivers to match the screws.

 

[epc308]

Thanks to 243 and hp shooter. I thought this sounded ridiculous that the ejector rod would come unscrewed. Took my cylinder off and it was loose THREE TURNS!! Works just fine now. Thanks, again to those shooters and this great forum.
Gary

I had the same issue with a M17 I bought 3 years ago for bullseye. When it arrived the cylinder release would work/not work. Like you, I found the ejector rod to be loose. Tightened it up and function has been correct and trouble free ever since. A previous owner had grabbed the knurl with pliers, but fortunately, it looked like it had only been done one time and wasn’t too bad. Hopefully yours hasn’t been scarred in a similar fashion. Those tiny left hand threads work well, and don’t require armstrong torque to do the job.

 

[DGP4]

The main thing to keep in mind is not to overtighten! I had the same issue with a recently purchased Pre-27 Model. Simply holding the ejector rod with my weak hand I turned the cylinder as snug as possible. I have not had any further loosening. You can use a rough piece of leather to help you hold the rod. Midway sells a low cost tool but I think this further runs the risk of overtightening with disastrous results.

 

[Ziabeam]

I have a S & W model 53 in .22 Jet. I bought it with a second cylinder in .22 L R. I was supposed to be a fitted cylinder. The revolver will not open after it is locked closed. The issue is that the front locking shroud on the cylinder will not release. You have to push in on it with a stick to get the rod to release. There is another issue with the yoke fit to the cylinder. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks, Gary

Cylinder and Slide. I believe they’re in Fremont Nebraska;

Edit, Just looked them up. Unclear if they still work on S&W’s. At one time they did, and they did so very, very well.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

The dude on here named shortgrass is your s&w man. Not much he doesnt know about them

 

[rr2030]

Have you considered sending it to S&W ?