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gettin the lead out

i came across a vintage savage 25-20 at the range today. the gent said he was having trouble stabilizing his shots. he showed me the rounds he was shooting, home made lead,he told me that there was virtually no copper rounds put thru the gun. he asked if i wanted to buy it, damn straight i told him , major reason was is that he had an original clip for it and that was the grail id been searching for for 30 years. i have the exact model here at the house. so,,,,,,,i just spent the better part of an hour trying to get this puppy clean...i have not tried any hi-tech stuff for 2 reasons, 1 i dont know what to get, 2 i dont have it,,,ssoooo if theres anyone out there to point me in the right direction to a cleaner i can use for this badly fouled gun id be much obliged.....
 
i came across a vintage savage 25-20 at the range today. the gent said he was having trouble stabilizing his shots. he showed me the rounds he was shooting, home made lead,he told me that there was virtually no copper rounds put thru the gun. he asked if i wanted to buy it, damn straight i told him , major reason was is that he had an original clip for it and that was the grail id been searching for for 30 years. i have the exact model here at the house. so,,,,,,,i just spent the better part of an hour trying to get this puppy clean...i have not tried any hi-tech stuff for 2 reasons, 1 i dont know what to get, 2 i dont have it,,,ssoooo if theres anyone out there to point me in the right direction to a cleaner i can use for this badly fouled gun id be much obliged.....
 
Kroil is a good start. Should that not work, you might look for this stuff:


I have no experience with the Sharpshootr product.

Last resort (IMO) would be the Lewis Lead Remover brass screen thing.
 
just the standard stuff i use for copper jacketed bullets,,,,,thanks for the input,,,,i will look into Ballistol
 
Boretech has a rimfire blend which leads me to believe it is formulated for lead and wax. I use it on my CZ and Anschutz. Haven’t tried it on my 45-70 just because I haven’t shot it lately. Works quickly and well in the rimfires. Boretech Eliminator works well on my centerfires, so I’m a fan.
 
Another option is to use a brush with bronze wool wrapped tightly around it. It should be a tight fit in the bore at first. Don’t use it dry, any solvent or Kroil will work. The wool does no damage to the steel but does scrub out the lead pretty well. No strong noxious chemicals, plus it’s available at local home and hardware stores while the Lewis tool is not.




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The No-Lead works. Make sure to follow directions. After 20 minutes, it needs deacitivated.
The Wipe-Out, and or Patch-Out, will remove the dissolved lead residue and protect the barrel from corrosion.

I use it.
 
ER(Ed's red) with bronze wool wrapped into a proper sized bore brush. Keep it wet.

Will say that a lot of folks leave out the acetone and lanolin when making batches...... don't. The acetone really speeds the action. The lanolin is "almost" in the snake oil category but is worth the effort...if,we're talking serious cast work. Serious here,in that you're running a STEADY diet of cast,vs occasional. And/or you really start pressing the envelope WRT pressure and velocity. Just like a well tuned cast iron skillet,it can be a little tough to put actual "numbers" on what it takes to get say eggs whilst frying to just slip and slide around in the pan. That's how lanolin gets described when talking barrel conditioning. A tiny bit in your lube helps too. And I'm NOT a big tester or changer when it comes to lubes.... I run right up to 3k fps with the most basic of lubes. You need to be aware that,more must be better isn't the way with cast. Just a tiny bit of lanolin is all it takes.

Good luck with your project.
 
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