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Who can bed my MPA/Tenacity action?

eric32

Shooting when I can
Silver $$ Contributor
Hey guys

I need someone to bed my action and chassis.Who can help that has experiences in this area.

I am bedding it to remove all doubt from the rifle system. Not to make it shooter better. I want a solid connection between the two items to prevent things from moving around under different tempatures or dropping the rifle.

Also need to get a stripped out screw on the NV bridge fixed.
 
If you can bed a stock you can bed a chassis, Id assume your normal smith could do it? So far as someone that specializes in chassis bedding, I dont know about that.
 
Hey guys

I need someone to bed my action and chassis.Who can help that has experiences in this area.

I am bedding it to remove all doubt from the rifle system. Not to make it shooter better. I want a solid connection between the two items to prevent things from moving around under different tempatures or dropping the rifle.

Also need to get a stripped out screw on the NV bridge fixed.

Are you having a problem with the rifle? The MPA chassis is a pretty good system. Mine shoots clean targets in f-class. Bedding would be fairly easy to do yourself.
 
I found someone to do it for me already thanks.

I am getting less then ideal surface contact. I gonna get it check out and bedded.
 
So I got to thinking and I am pretty sure it need to be bedding based on these pictures and contact points.

But I welcome one else's thoughts
 

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^^^
Not sure what you did there...
Thick masking tape, with "worn" areas supposedly showing that's where the only contact is?

Dykem high-spot blue would give you a true picture of where you have contact.
 
Yea the tape was put on the action then torqued down for a period of 30 mins then released those worn areas are the only areas that the chassis touched the action.

Cerakote spots on the chassis show the same wear.
 
I used Plastigauge to determine that my Browning factory bedding job left a 0.0035" gap between the action and the bedding. I figured if it's precise enough for engine builders, it should work for my rifle....


.
 
That seems like a expensive way to figure out I need to bed the chassis. I am gonna get the new barrel in and drop the rifle from a eye level a couple of times and see how she does
 
So I decided to preform a little test this after noon.

I torqued the rear action screws and no movement was observed at the front of the action. So the action doesn't have any stress from what I gather.

And the front action screw doesn't not lift the rear.
 
so it been a while and i am bring this thread back for a few reasons

1. I want to bed my chassis not cause it need it but i want to remove all doubt in my mind.

2. need to ask if someone makes a kit that has bolts with some sort of sleeve that i can use to center the action screws in the chassis it self.


ill be ordering release agent from LRI

what is the best putty to use to fill in the receiver area that i dont want bedding in?

How many inch pounds are need for the action screws?

what is the best method to hold the rifle when the bedding is curing?
 
Last edited:
just my thoughts
wrap action screws with blue painters tape until they just slide into holes
use plumbers putty or modeling clay from Hobby Lobby to fill areas you dont want compound to enter
wrap sides, bottom and front of recoil lugs with a couple layers of tape
 

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