Copper removal

[dgeesaman]

Does it work better to let copper solvent in the bore longer, or simply run as many copper solvent patches as possible and not worry much about "soaking"? I suspect the chemistry is either time limited or reagent limited.

Background:
Working with a 22-250 that seems to grow its own copper. I have BoreTech Eliminator and Sweets 7.62 solvent. Both generate blue patches almost endlessly. I've been quitting when my borescope shows almost all copper gone.

 

[shoot4fun]

Sweets instructs the user not to leave it in the barrel for over 15 minutes.
While the label says harmless to steel, it does contain ammonia.
It also says do not use Sweets with other chemicals/solvents.
Holland's Witch's Brew will take out copper in pretty short order but it is abrasive.
BoreTech Eliminator is what I prefer to use for copper.

 

[Ned Ludd]

In fact, the chemical reaction(s) that occur are probably limited by both time and the amount of reagent applied, especially if there is significant accumulation of copper in the bore. There is nothing wrong with running multiple patches, as long as you keep the manufacturer's recommended application time in mind. For the water-based copper removers such as Bore Tech Cu+2, the use of several wet patches over a period of 1 to 2 hours seems to work very well, and it is not harmful to the bore, IMO, even if left overnight. Other products may have a much shorter recommended application time. If you want to run multiple patches through the bore with one of those, I'd suggest initially to still keep the application time within the manufacturer's recommended time window until you have some idea how benign the treatment is to the bore.

 

[dgeesaman]

FWIW this rifle has an older custom barrel and I'm using an aluminum jag.

I've used mostly Eliminator. When I run the Sweets I do run a couple of dry patches to clean out the previous solvent. I could run a 'neutral' solvent in between these products, if I knew what that should be.

 

[K22]

I know these goes against the common convention but I'm starting to wonder if it's necessary to remove every last trace of copper.

I use to clean with copper solvents after carbon removal and attempt to remove every last trace of copper. In some of my older rifles with a lot rounds down the bore I was never quite able to obtain a "total white patch" more like a "robin's egg light blue." The rifles shot fine - no accuracy problems at all and I speaking of varmint level accuracy in the 1/2 moa range.

I began to back off the excessive cleaning, just cleaning with Bore Tech C4 to remove the carbon then I ran a few patches of Cu+2 copper solvent, let sit for 10 minutes or so then dry patched. The goal being to just remove any "gross" copper fouling. The final patches were not totally pristine white. Guess what, this work just as good if not better than the excessive cleaning with copper solvent trying to remove every last trace of copper. The rifles shot just fine. Also, I got less clean barrel flyers.

Here are a couple of sources you may want to consult then make your own decision.

1. Bore Tech's rep - call them and talk to them about the continued presences of copper traces and fire cracking effect on copper traces shown after cleaning.

2. Watch the video by gunblue490 on "solvents" and "how to professionally clean a rifle." You can google his web site. I think his video's are on YouTube. Very thought provoking to say the least.

Bottom line, if your rifle is performing as required do you really need the remove every bit of copper? I'm not an expert and I can't answer that question conclusively but the only thing I can say is that I have found that it's not necessary in my rifles. Perhaps you may want to test that possibility in your rifle.

 

[JEFFPPC]

You need to read the current thread on this page about Sweets.

 

[shoot4fun]

You need to read the current thread on this page about Sweets.

Why?
That thread is more BS and arguing over nothing related to Sweets than anything else.

 

[Capt. Oblivious]

If im in a hurry ill use a couple applications of sweets otherwise ill leave Patch Out in the barrel for a day maybe 2 with a quick dry patch and then a couple wet once down the tube during the 2 days as a reapplication

If you want to run a "neutralizer" between solvents use some rubbing alcohol

 

[johara1]

Why?
That thread is more BS and arguing over nothing related to Sweets than anything else.

Yep' by the people that never used Sweets but heard it from some where and make statements on here without first hand knowledge. ..... jim

 

[JSH]

I have used wipeout for a long time. I leave it over night usually. It does not work well if there is a petroleum residue in the barrel.
It’s not fast, but two maybe three applications is all I need.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

I think all the cleaning products work better with a warm barrel.

 

[JEFFPPC]

Why?
That thread is more BS and arguing over nothing related to Sweets than anything else.

Well I disagree with you but is that not the way many threads go that get a lot of participation. Your comment is a good example, let the OP decide that if he wishes. The only thing in the thread I saw as b's was the frosted comments, Maybe it would be a better thread with a positive comment from your learned mind.

 

[johara1]

I must be doing something wrong because I don't get enough blue on a patch, I start with a couple passes of C4 then bronze brush a half dozen passes patch a few then go to Eliminator and repeat. Very little blue comes out.

If you use a bronze brush it should be blue to start with after you brush it. My problem with Eliminator is the sticky feel on everything with it. I have found Montana extreme copper killer to do a better job without the sticky mess..... jim

 

[dgeesaman]

If you use a bronze brush it should be blue to start with after you brush it. My problem with Eliminator is the stickness of it. I have found Montana extreme copper killer to do a better job without the sticky mess..... jim

Stickiness? I have two bottles of Boretech Eliminator and they are both waterlike. It seems to be a soap solution with a bit of ammonia.

 

[dgeesaman]

I think all the cleaning products work better with a warm barrel.

Hard to do in winter. I have done bore shot sprayed in at the range, that helps.

 

[johara1]

Stickiness? I have two bottles of Boretech Eliminator and they are both waterlike. It seems to be a soap solution with a bit of ammonia.

Feel the rod and anything it touches..... in the bore I have to use 4 more patches of 50% Kroil and Hoppies to get rid of it.... jim

 

[dgeesaman]

Feel the rod and anything it touches..... in the bore I have to use 4 more patches of 50% Kroil and Hoppies to get rid of it.... jim

Yeah I agree it makes the coated rod sticky. I wipe it with a paper towel.

My cradle has the muzzle pointed downward. When I use boreshot I close an earplug in the chamber with the bolt. It works well but then I need to very carefully push it out from the front. I had a brass rod for that once, I should probably get another one.

I don’t shoot matches. This is an old custom rifle that I’m testing for a friend and also for fun as a new caliber to me.

 

[JEFFPPC]

Most fellas I know take a range kit and clean after the match.
Do you place blue tape over the trigger opening prior to the bore guide?

SPJ, you are correct. That is what a lot of guys do. These are the guys I have said give me your rifle for 4 or 5 days I will show you what your missing. They are amazed.

 

[INTJ]

I must be doing something wrong because I don't get enough blue on a patch, I start with a couple passes of C4 then bronze brush a half dozen passes patch a few then go to Eliminator and repeat. Very little blue comes out.

Jim,

Our little 6BR variants in a good barrel copper very little if at all. Before I got my Hawkeye borescope I was puzzled at why I couldn't ever get any blue on patches when using conventional copper cutters. However, these little 6s do have a lot of carbon, and by the time I get the carbon out I never find any copper.

The more I do this the more inclined I am to just use JB every 100 rounds, Iosso every 200 or 300, and be done with it.

 

[jlvandersnick]

I've used "wipe out" for a long time. Works better than anything else I've tried for copper, and I've tried most of them. However, it does not do much for carbon.

"Shooters Choice" is my pick for a good all purpose cleaner.....however requires some scrubbing with a tight fitting brush