What do you put between the chuck jaws and the barrel when chambering.

[Thumper]

What do you put between the chuck jaws and the barrel when chambering To protect the barrel finish but hold the barrel securely?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

A copper ring

 

[kendog]

I wrap the contact area with a sticky note and use 3/8" round brass approx 3/8" long between the jaws and note/barrel. The round profile of the brass acts like a trunion and lets the barrel articulate at the contact point. Also mill a small flat on the brass pieces and turn them around for octagon barrels.

 

[tobnpr]

Are you using an outboard spider, where you want the barrel to be able to gimbal freely?
Or are you holding rigidly in the chuck jaws and just want protection? If this, just brass shim stock around the jaws.

If using an outboard spider, and chuck, heavy copper wire as mentioned works well in the chuck jaws.
I use an inboard spider, with a shop-made setup of pivoting aluminum v-blocks to allow free movement of the barrel.

 

[Thumper]

I have the Grizzly G4003G gunsmithing lathe on order, it comes with a spider mount system to support the muzzle end of the barrel as you are chambering.

please explain an inboard spider vs an outboard spider.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I have the Grizzly G4003G gunsmithing lathe on order, it comes with a spider mount system to support the muzzle end of the barrel as you are chambering.

please explain an inboard spider vs an outboard spider.

Inboard spider goes where the chuck goes. Outboard spider is on the other end of the spindle

 

[Clark]

For years I put a Copper ring [single strand #8 wire] and called it a gimble.
Now I use an 8" set through Pratt Burnerd 6 jaw chuck to grab the barrel hard, and steer the barrel with the left side of the headstock spider until the spud is concentric at more than one spot.

 

[ridgeway]

For years I put a Copper ring [single strand #8 wire] and called it a gimble.
Now I use an 8" set through Pratt Burnerd 6 jaw chuck to grab the barrel hard, and steer the barrel with the left side of the headstock spider until the spud is concentric at more than one spot.

Sounds like you are bending the barrel. Doesn't take much to do so. If it works for you, have at it.

 

[GenePoole]

On a lathe like a South Bend 13 with a long spindle, an inboard-outboard spider setup can gain you an extra 6 inches or more for shorter barrels.

 

[DaveTooley]

Here's my inboard spider and how I push the reamer. On my manual machines I take a chuck backing plate and modify it with 4 brass or bronze tipped screws..

 

[Lucky Shooter]

I've been very happy with short stubs of #6 copper wire----tried #8
for a while until I found that some pieces got compressed enough that
the chuck jaws would contact the barrel;

I've seen pictures of some beautiful copper rings but have no clue as to
how to make one with such a good fit.

My inboard spider was made by a best effort copy of the MT5 internal taper
of the spindle using thick walled stainless tubing----plus 4 screws. I haven't
used it much but it now lives at AckleymanII's place and he's used it more than
I have. I supposed its been willed to him.

A. Weldy

 

[Danny1788]

I use 1/4” solid copper grounding wire. Cut a long piece and bend it around the barrel to get a shape then trim it to length. Works really well.

 

[Danny1788]

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[Clark]

Sounds like you are bending the barrel. Doesn't take much to do so. If it works for you, have at it.

With finger tip like axial forces at the left side spider screws, I think the barrel is still in elastic deformation.
That does not say much for the rigidity of a D1-4 backed 8" 6 jaw chuck mounted in my PM1236 lathe.

My system not only saves set up time, but avoids possible barrel slipping in the Copper gimbal while cutting threads.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

With finger tip like axial forces at the left side spider screws, I think the barrel is still in elastic deformation.
That does not say much for the rigidity of a D1-4 backed 8" 6 jaw chuck mounted in my PM1236 lathe.

My system not only saves set up time, but avoids possible barrel slipping in the Copper gimbal while cutting threads.

If you dont think so you can always put an indicator on it and tighten em up. Its easy to test. Its not your chuck moving btw

 

[carlsbad]

Chuck? what chuck?

 

[Clark]

If you dont think so you can always put an indicator on it and tighten em up. Its easy to test. Its not your chuck moving btw

 

[tobnpr]

I got frustrated with brass-tipped screws.
Even their smaller contact area didn't allow the barrel to gimbal freely. It wasn't rocket science- if I tighten one side on the outboard spider, i fully expect the breech of the barrel to move in the appropriate direction.

if it doesn't, I'm bending the barrel. Period, end of story.

i drilled out the brass tips with a 1/4" ball end mill, about . 075 deep.
Crazy glue a 1/4" steel ball bearing into them.
Milled aluminum v-blocks about 7/16" wide x 1" long. Used the same ball end mill to make the female indent for the ball bearing in the screw, dead center.

Just used it for the first time, v-blocks give good surface area contact, holds the barrel firmly while freely allowed to gimbal on the ball bearings. Now, when i tighten or loosen a screw on the outboard spider, the barrel moves exactly like i expect.

 

[Thumper]

If you can please post a few pictures. Thank you

 

[B Nettesheim]

This is my setup and it barely leaves a mark on stainless, nothing that a little scotchbrite cant take off.