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Harrells Tuner Brake - Where to start?

One thing I noticed yesterday in taking my tuner/brake off was the buildup of carbon on the crown of the muzzle and also the adjacent face on the inside of the tuner. I had a good .080 of carbon build up that I had to mechanically scrape off the crown. Same inside the tuner which I soaked in Slip 2000 for a day. Still had to scrape some.
 
Does that actually work or are ya just showing off your new shiny nut;}
Its easier to tune with more weight and its way easier to not shoot a huge group if theres not 2 nuts coming loose, plus you can adjust it from the shooting position. Soon there will be a good tuner brake on the market that will solve these issues
 
One thing I noticed yesterday in taking my tuner/brake off was the buildup of carbon on the crown of the muzzle and also the adjacent face on the inside of the tuner. I had a good .080 of carbon build up that I had to mechanically scrape off the crown. Same inside the tuner which I soaked in Slip 2000 for a day. Still had to scrape some.
They do get a horrible build up in there. I just let it build up as long as its not causing an issue- i got tired of fighting it
 
One thing I noticed yesterday in taking my tuner/brake off was the buildup of carbon on the crown of the muzzle and also the adjacent face on the inside of the tuner. I had a good .080 of carbon build up that I had to mechanically scrape off the crown. Same inside the tuner which I soaked in Slip 2000 for a day. Still had to scrape some.
Other than looks, it doesn't hurt a thing.
 
Let you tuner- break soak in CLR for a couple days. Really works great to get the stubborn carbon out. DJB
 
Its easier to tune with more weight and its way easier to not shoot a huge group if theres not 2 nuts coming loose, plus you can adjust it from the shooting position. Soon there will be a good tuner brake on the market that will solve these issues

This is the problem I'm having also. Two nuts on the tuner and one very loose nut behind the trigger. :D
 
Let you tuner- break soak in CLR for a couple days. Really works great to get the stubborn carbon out. DJB
I'm using Slip 2000 putting the tuner in the bottle itself, then placing that in the ultrasonic cleaner with water. Works really well after adjusting the water level for max Q.
 
I am interested in the Harrells tuner's but I am wondering if each one needs to be bored out before use like the site says? I have a 223 rifle that I would like to try it on.
 
I take it you just thread the brake on until it bottoms out on the barrel shoulder? I see that they sell a two port version too, I wonder if it uses crush washers to time it?

Yes, this one just screws on until it stops. I’m not sure how the two port version works. Give the guys at Harrels a call. They are very friendly and helpful.
 
Yeah I am going to call them on Monday if they are open and see what my options are. It looks like I would have to buy the AR15 version for my 223 so I am guessing they will be bored to the right diameter.
 
I take it you just thread the brake on until it bottoms out on the barrel shoulder? I see that they sell a two port version too, I wonder if it uses crush washers to time it?
Use shim washers to time it. My smith also made a thread protector to match the barrel should I want to remove the Harrells tuner/brake.
 
Install it so it bottoms out at the correct position. Always use the least amount of parts. Its easy to do it right during the intitial install
 
I have one of these, and the adjustment sleeves kept coming loose. I kept the one with the marks on it and turned my own jam nut for the rear. Locks up now and hasn't worked loose.
 
I have one of these, and the adjustment sleeves kept coming loose. I kept the one with the marks on it and turned my own jam nut for the rear. Locks up now and hasn't worked loose.
Yeah I have seen some reviews that stated that they came loose. One guy said a small dab of blue loctite fixed the problem for him.
 

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