I’m still using this tool, have you guys come up with anything better?

[762willdo]

 

[ditter]

It works. Why change?

 

[762willdo]

I ask because I had a reloading room accident and stepped on mine and broke it, so I need a new one and thought I would ask before I made the purchase
You never know...I have a lot of obsolete reloading components lying around
I also need a new 6mm dasher case who sells those?

 

[jkohler]

Alex’s way works very well. Try it before wasting your money

 

[dbduff]

Alex’s way works very well. Try it before wasting your money

This way works for me, easy, peasy and spot on.

 

[memilanuk]

Used the old Stoney Point tool (before Hornady got ahold of it) for years and years. Switched to using the Wheeler method when I can - but it doesn't work well with every kind of action, or even every kind of bolt gun. So the old Stoney Point tool still has a place on my bench.

 

[762willdo]

Used the old Stoney Point tool (before Hornady got ahold of it) for years and years. Switched to using the Wheeler method when I can - but it doesn't work well with every kind of action, or even every kind of bolt gun. So the old Stoney Point tool still has a place on my bench.

That’s what I was thinking, it probably works great In a custom action where the tolerances are held to .0001 but my trued Remington 700 may not have those kind of tolerances....

 

[jkohler]

It will work fine in your 700

 

[memilanuk]

Probably work just fine in your 700... it works like a champ in my Savage(s).

Gas guns... not so much.

And my Zermatt/Bighorn Origin had some quirk about the bolt head where it doesn't work so well. Can't remember for the life of me what it is, but I'm sure the next time I go to use it, it'll occur to me

The tighter the freebore diameter in the chamber, the more having minimal TIR in the loaded round will affect your 'readings'. Obviously not a problem for high-end guns like what Alex builds, or even really for any decent aftermarket barrel. Factory barrels... might not work as well in every instance.

 

[drano38]

I still use my Stony Point.
When I setup my Bat last spring, I tried the Wheeler method. The challenge I had was feeling the difference between the bullet in the lands and the bullet being in the throat. With the bullet off the lands, I'd get just a bit of bolt lift resistance, and thought it was in the lands.
Alex has a great technique, I just haven't developed the proper feel to use it consistently.

 

[243Lapua]

I use both methods. My two cents.

 

[RGRobinett]

Barrel-stub head-space gauge, and for new BBL, perfect seating depth gauge: this, or, for when ya have to, "chase the lands", the method displayed by Alex.

P.S. have received a few questions: this set of pics displays my typical/initial 30BR/30Anything set-up.
Hypothetically, it would be 0.030" of JAM: however, with the FL die neck/bushing diameter 0.004" smaller than the loaded neck-diameter, upon lock-up the bullet wedges into the lands, and sets-back in the case neck - a "jam", or, "soft-seat". Having done this, for future reference,I record the seater-stem length & reamer identity in the top of the L.E. Wilson die box. A different bullet configuration, or, a bullet from a different point die, will, of course, require a different stem length.

As previously pointed out, by others, and worth repeating, are the critical points:
1) working from a "Jam" leaves but one way to go;
2) precise reference for future use with a particular bullet. or, any bullet from the same point-die.

Note: Tough the reamer used to make the gizmo (neck-length/trim gauge) in the last pic has a LONG free-bore, a close look reveals the beginnings of the lands. These gauges are all made with barrel
"drop-offs". Ideally, the stub length will be long enough that the bullet nose is completely contained, thus accommodating precise use of the caliper.

 

[coldboreshot]

When I run into a situation differentiating between the throat vs lands contact, I use an endoscope from the muzzle end just a little ahead of the edge of the lands. I can virtually see the gap of the bullet stop in the throat from the lands. For the most part, I can determine the bullet touching the lands when the tip of the bullet pushes up against the camera. Again, this is only to differentiate between throat or lands contact before I begin the bolt-drop measuring process. Just takes the guess work out.

 

[LRPV]

I still use my Stony Point.
When I setup my Bat last spring, I tried the Wheeler method. The challenge I had was feeling the difference between the bullet in the lands and the bullet being in the throat. With the bullet off the lands, I'd get just a bit of bolt lift resistance, and thought it was in the lands.
Alex has a great technique, I just haven't developed the proper feel to use it consistently.

In no way am I trying to be disrespectful or anything but there is no FEEL to Alex method if you're doing it correctly. There is either a click when engaged or there isn't when it's off. Granted the closer you get to being out of the lands the less click there is. I think people make this more difficult than it needs to be.

I hate stripping my bolt, even on BATS so I just use the Stoney point tool unless I need to get an actual measurement for some reason.

With Savages and Custom Savages (IE bighorn) I have to remove the spring washer between body and bolt head to do anything that has to do with "feel" including this method.

 

[338 dude]

View attachment 1211863

I don’t know if it’s that tool or the modified case but I have huge discrepancies and do not use that anymore

 

[338 dude]

This way works for me, easy, peasy and spot on.

And repeatable the Hornady tool is not repeatable

 

[memilanuk]

And repeatable the Hornady tool is not repeatable

I would disagree, to a degree

*I* can (and have) get a consistent, repeatable reading with the Stoney Point tool pretty easily. Consistent with *my* other readings. I also use a butt-load more pressure than most people I see doing it.

But the Wheeler method will allow you, and some other random person (like your gunsmith) to both get the same reading - it's more consistent that way, for sure.

 

[drano38]

LRPV, no disrespect taken. I might not be interpreting the minimal click just into the lands vs no click just out of.
For my Stony Point, after pushing the bullet into the lands, I move it back out of the lands with a wooden dowel from the muzzle. I ease it back and forth a few times, then lock in the Stony Point grey rod, remove, and measure. I do this 3-5 times, to find the repeatable number.
Luckily, its easy to strip the Bat bolt.

 

[LRPV]

LRPV, no disrespect taken. I might not be interpreting the minimal click just into the lands vs no click just out of.
For my Stony Point, after pushing the bullet into the lands, I move it back out of the lands with a wooden dowel from the muzzle. I ease it back and forth a few times, then lock in the Stony Point grey rod, remove, and measure. I do this 3-5 times, to find the repeatable number.
Luckily, its easy to strip the Bat bolt.

Yea, I just don’t like taking my ejectors out all the time. Next action will be a drop port.

I use my Hornady tool like Milanuk described. I use a lot of pressure, probably jamming the bullet around .003”. Its just a comparator number, as long as I can repeat it is the important thing. The only time I’ve had problems getting a repeatable number has been with a worn out throat in a 5R barrel.

I believe Alex’s method is the only way for two people to compare numbers and end up in the same place, but I can stay on top of my own stuff using the Hornady tool. I bought a tap and use a cordless drill to make my own modified cases by the way.

 

[wedgy]

The Hornady tool is measuring the from the bullet base to the ID of the Hornady insert, which may or may not correspond to the measurement of your rifles lands. The wheeler method measure from bullet base to your rifling, not a ~random sized, medium tolerance aluminum insert. I do get repeatable measurements with the Hornady tool but they are limited to what they are actually measuring.