I’m still using this tool, have you guys come up with anything better?

[Tsu45]

Probably work just fine in your 700... it works like a champ in my Savage(s).

Gas guns... not so much.

And my Zermatt/Bighorn Origin had some quirk about the bolt head where it doesn't work so well. Can't remember for the life of me what it is, but I'm sure the next time I go to use it, it'll occur to me

The tighter the freebore diameter in the chamber, the more having minimal TIR in the loaded round will affect your 'readings'. Obviously not a problem for high-end guns like what Alex builds, or even really for any decent aftermarket barrel. Factory barrels... might not work as well in every instance.

Works great for me in two TL3s. If you’re referencing the cross bolt that holds the bolt head in the bolt body, a single layer of scotch tape on the bottom will hold it in and provide no resistance to working the bolt.

 

[memilanuk]

Works great for me in two TL3s. If you’re referencing the cross bolt that holds the bolt head in the bolt body, a single layer of scotch tape on the bottom will hold it in and provide no resistance to working the bolt.

My issue was with the mechanical ejector arm being in the way, as compared to a plunger-style that I can readily remove from the bolt head.

 

[LRPV]

It’s a pain but you can feed the round under the extractor through the mag well.

 

[Tsu45]

My issue was with the mechanical ejector arm being in the way, as compared to a plunger-style that I can readily remove from the bolt head.

10-4. If you stick with it for a while I think the mechanics would be second nature. I dropped the dummy round a few times the first couple measurements but don’t feel inconvenienced in the slightest now. I run chassis on both rifles, so the general area from the bottom of the mag well to the chamber isn’t ”thick.” Easy peasy one handed.

 

[BigBlueandGoldie]

I just went through this process this week with a .308 Savage FTR rifle. I couldn't get any kind of consistency out of the Hornady tool. With the advice of a board member, and former Savage FTR shooter, I used the Wheeler method. I simply removed the screw from the back of the bolt, removed the cocking piece, and reinstalled the screw. I was able to get plenty of "feel" this way. My action had no ejector or that would've been removed as well. With a micrometer seating die it was a quick process. Way faster than screwing with the Hornady tool.

 

[TrxR]

When using the wheeler method do you have to remove the ejector as well? Im using a Borden BRM.

 

[LRPV]

When using the wheeler method do you have to remove the ejector as well? Im using a Borden BRM.

Yes.