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Any 1911 Gunsmiths Here

HELP! I’ve been pulling my hair out (only had 2 to start with) over this current build. Here’s the gun:

80% 1911Builders SS frame

Fusion matched slide, barrel & bushing



My problem is that with a barrel link installed it lacks about 3/32” from going into battery. I tried all the links in the EGW link kit. No joy.

I have an empty 40 S&W case in the chamber and I can see through the primer hole.

If you look where the slide stop goes you can see a large amount of the hooks showing. I have not seen this in any of my other builds.

So, based on what you see, do I have a lot of filing to do or do I have other problems?



I did a search for failure to go into battery problems, but none really talked about this. Thanks for any help and advice on where to go from here.
 

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Remove slide , install barrel with any link into frame , if it fits . Take picture . Check its fit , and location to ramp , take pic .
check slide locking lugs to barrel fit . Well after thinking about it , TOO many variables with semi frame . Even 100 % frames usually require some fitting .
Sorry
 
I have had links contact the frame , that didn't allow them to move into battery. Maybe some sharpie marks and see what is actually making contact if anything.
 
Id like to see if the slide stop will go into the link without the slide on there. I think if you try this youll see where its not working. There are a ton of videos and instructions out there from the barrel makers like kart and bar-sto and the best ive seen was from the folks that make that link fitting kit- maybe bar-sto- it slips my mind at the moment. Ill look for it
 
I have built many of these 45's for the USAF pistol team members when I was in the USAF. First step is to check that the barrel is seated properly into the recoil groves on the the top side of the barrel and into the grooves in the slide. The length of the hood on the back of the barrel controls this fit. Remove small amounts at a time off of the hoods until you get a firm seat but not one that requires a hammer to open. Once the barrel is seated into these grooves check your pin fit. If it will not slide into the holes the lugs on the bottom of the barrel need to be cut. This can be done with special tool from Brownells or with a small round file and sand paper. Becareful as you only want to remove small amount at a time. Keep checking you have even contact on each lug using black marker or dykem. Here again a snug fit onto the lug pin is what you want. Sometime you can change the engagement by different lengths of links. I hope this helps?

GregK
USAF Gunsmith 1984-1992
USAF Rifle Team Member 1987-1992
 
I have built many of these 45's for the USAF pistol team members when I was in the USAF. First step is to check that the barrel is seated properly into the recoil groves on the the top side of the barrel and into the grooves in the slide. The length of the hood on the back of the barrel controls this fit. Remove small amounts at a time off of the hoods until you get a firm seat but not one that requires a hammer to open. Once the barrel is seated into these grooves check your pin fit. If it will not slide into the holes the lugs on the bottom of the barrel need to be cut. This can be done with special tool from Brownells or with a small round file and sand paper. Becareful as you only want to remove small amount at a time. Keep checking you have even contact on each lug using black marker or dykem. Here again a snug fit onto the lug pin is what you want. Sometime you can change the engagement by different lengths of links. I hope this helps?

GregK
USAF Gunsmith 1984-1992
USAF Rifle Team Member 1987-1992
Thanks Greg. I think I have a good lock up on the barrel & slide, ( I put an empty case in the chamber with no primer and I can see through the firing pin hole) but I am still just shy of going into battery with the standard link. . I cut the lugs with Brownell's lug cutter. I have the EGW link kit. Do I need a link that is longer than standard or shorter?
 
Thanks Greg. I think I have a good lock up on the barrel & slide, ( I put an empty case in the chamber with no primer and I can see through the firing pin hole) but I am still just shy of going into battery with the standard link. . I cut the lugs with Brownell's lug cutter. I have the EGW link kit. Do I need a link that is longer than standard or shorter?
You will have to experiment with either size link. Make sure you have no burrs or rolled edges on the locking lug on top of the barrel and inside the slide. We always chamfered the edges at a 45 degree to allow the locking lugs on top of the barrel to slide into the lugs in the slide.
 
You will have to experiment with either size link. Make sure you have no burrs or rolled edges on the locking lug on top of the barrel and inside the slide. We always chamfered the edges at a 45 degree to allow the locking lugs on top of the barrel to slide into the lugs in the slide.
Whats the best way to chamfer those to keep em even, and how much did you chamfer?
 

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