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Best primer pocket cleaner

Predecessors to the Sinclair uniformer is the White tail, been using them since the early 80's..solid carbide, still cuts like a new tool.

Sometimes, the carbon builds up in the pocket where you are trying to seat the primer when you close the bolt....not a good thing.

New Harbor Freight Sonic cleaner and Simple green cleans the pockets very well.
 
How the hell Ja manage that?:D

He's highly favored. I can't remember the last time I cleaned a primer pocket. I did have a Lyman, gave it away. Maybe I should start again to keep up with everyone else. Which one should I get? :D
 
It is a mistake to use anything aggressively that doesn't have a "stop" that indexes off the casehead.....do that long enough and the primers will eventually seat more and more under flush. The whole point is keep the pocket depth the same after each cleaning. This isn't some contest for the cleanest pocket.

Realize that there can be a few thousandths difference in pocket depths, per manufacturer, and even per lot of the same brand. Also realize that the harder you step on the brass, the more the web OD increases...and this affects how the same uniformer will "clean" the same pocket. Low node brass pockets never clean the same as beat up brass, when you use the same uniformer.

Just stop over thinking it, get a uniformer that indexes off the case head, and don't worry if some brass gives you a fleck of brass while other lots leave a little black on the bottom of the pocket. ...either way the depth and levelness of the primer will be tha same.

....way too much coffee this morning.
 
Realize that there can be a few thousandths difference in pocket depths, per manufacturer, and even per lot of the same brand. Also realize that the harder you step on the brass, the more the web OD increases...and this affects how the same uniformer will "clean" the same pocket. Low node brass pockets never clean the same as beat up brass, when you use the same uniformer.

That, and other tolerance issues between components, primers for an example. That is why I constantly advise to not use one of those (expensive) settable primer pocket seaters. If you use one of those, I am positively certain that they will work properly and give you the below flush dinension you set it for, BUT, probably with the end result of some primers being seated correctly, some not in far enough, and some in too far, being crushed, due to tolerance stack up. Seat by feel in a properly dimensioned pocket. They can and do change in depth form firing to firing.

Danny
 
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Like others, I use a uniformer tool to clean pockets that has a stop so you can't cut the pocket too deep. After uniforming the pocket, subsequent cleaning with the uniformer leaves the pocket completely clean. I use the Sinclair version.

This method is far superior to the RCBS wire brush tool.
I used to use the wire brush from RCBS and it does work. Now I just use a Sinclair uniformer, just takes a second and makes me feel better!
 
I use the Sinclair tool to uniform virgin brass and subsequently to clean the pockets after a few firings. I'm not worried if they are bright and shiny, I just want my primers to seat smoothly.
 
To make sure I am not making the primer pocket bigger, I use a 4 inch long sheet rock screw. I wrap duct tape around the screw for better handling. Try it, and you will be surprised at how well it works. DJB
 
What benefit have you found from dirty primer pockets ?
I, like Dave, no longer clean my primer pockets. What well founded benefit have you seen from cleaning them? I've tested both ways...at under 300yds and out to 1000yds and, if there is a difference, I cannot discern it from 'background noise'. I quit adhering to dogma that consumes my time unless it proves out on paper or on my scores. Perhaps one day I'll become proficient enough of a shooter to recognize the difference but until then I'll be the guy on the line with grimy pockets:).
 
I, like Dave, no longer clean my primer pockets. What well founded benefit have you seen from cleaning them? I've tested both ways...at under 300yds and out to 1000yds and, if there is a difference, I cannot discern it from 'background noise'. I quit adhering to dogma that consumes my time unless it proves out on paper or on my scores. Perhaps one day I'll become proficient enough of a shooter to recognize the difference but until then I'll be the guy on the line with grimy pockets:).

I still clean pockets because I haven't tested without cleaning and it is a very quick task. My concern is the carbon might mess with the consistency of the primer crush.
 
I still clean pockets because I haven't tested without cleaning and it is a very quick task. My concern is the carbon might mess with the consistency of the primer crush.
I understand the concern. It was mine when I cleaned pockets. I can't shoot the difference. When processing from 100-400 cases in a batch the cleaning process add a bit of time. SS pin tumbling worked great....when I cleaned my brass. I only rinse it now to get the dust off prior to processing. More time saved:D.
 
I understand the concern. It was mine when I cleaned pockets. I can't shoot the difference. When processing from 100-400 cases in a batch the cleaning process add a bit of time. SS pin tumbling worked great....when I cleaned my brass. I only rinse it now to get the dust off prior to processing. More time saved:D.

The only case cleaning I do is wiping off the imperial with a micro fiber cloth. I also don't deburr flash holes anymore.

I usually load 75 rounds at a time for a match. A two day match needs 150. There are several things I do that are slow but must be done, so anything that doesn't help group sizes gets dropped.
 
I use the Hornady or the Lyman (whichever comes with the orange and gray handle). I use a stop and a power screwdriver. Fast, easy, and never blew through the bottom of a pocket and never loosened up the hole.
 

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