Rimfire Tuners
- Thread starter BP1
- Start date
Whisky Tahoe Foxtrot
Silver $$ Contributor
I have a Harrells mounted on my Sako Finn Fire Range. I have tested a few different times and it is pretty easy to find the "coarse" setting for the tuner. It takes some patience to find the groups with the smallest vertical. Rest or Bipod, a precision hold matters.
I'm a believer though. My vertical at 200 yards has shrunk due to the tuner.
Search for Hopewell Tuning Method for a plan that works though potentially goes through a lot of ammo.
My experience was pleasant, I found settings with results early and was able to skip to next step saving ammo. When I found more than one setting with positive results, I made a note and tested those settings at 200. That's when I knew I had something.
This is with Eley Tenex @1078. My gun didn't like other velocities. I didn't tune until I had narrowed down to one brand of ammo. There's several velocities with Eley Tenex and in my case it mattered.
My Remington 541T isn't as accurate but isn't very picky either. I can shoot SK and sorted Eley Club with good results. Great for 50 yards, so so for 100. Haven't considered a tuner for that
I'm a believer though. My vertical at 200 yards has shrunk due to the tuner.
Search for Hopewell Tuning Method for a plan that works though potentially goes through a lot of ammo.
My experience was pleasant, I found settings with results early and was able to skip to next step saving ammo. When I found more than one setting with positive results, I made a note and tested those settings at 200. That's when I knew I had something.
This is with Eley Tenex @1078. My gun didn't like other velocities. I didn't tune until I had narrowed down to one brand of ammo. There's several velocities with Eley Tenex and in my case it mattered.
My Remington 541T isn't as accurate but isn't very picky either. I can shoot SK and sorted Eley Club with good results. Great for 50 yards, so so for 100. Haven't considered a tuner for that
If you want to try a quicker method of finding the the tune for your rifle, give the Purdy PRX a look. Listed on this page.
http://www.rimfirebenchrest.com/tools/test-page.html
http://www.rimfirebenchrest.com/tools/test-page.html
Cool thanks Pat
The Purdy Method will get you real close.
Ben
Ben
I have this tuner on my centerfire but my buddy uses one on his Rimfire. It’s easy to screw on and use. No special machining needed.
https://www.kineticsecuritysolutions.com/
https://www.kineticsecuritysolutions.com/
Hi-NV Shooter
Gold $$ Contributor
Thanks Lee. I will give that a go also.
I looked at that one for my repeater but it may get sold since I have the V-SS now.
linekin
Gold $$ Contributor
I suppose if you have a rifle already threaded for a suppressor, go ahead & try one. You've nothing to lose.
I ran into a weight problem & needed to make my own light tuner a while back & posed the question as to how to attach it to the barrel. Overwhelmingly, I was told not to thread the barrel as it could open up the bore at the muzzle which is a big no no on a taper lapped match barrel.
You don't want to risk opening up the bore & have the bullet not leave the tightest spot at the muzzle.Made perfect sense so I glued it on instead.
I've heard of over tightening a clamped tuner could possibly restrict the bore. I'm wondering if this could possibly help some rifles that don't have a couple tenth's choke at the muzzle?
Keith
Are you talking specifically about Rimfire specifically? I can say that’s total BS for centerfire rifles but my Vudoo barrel is threaded and it’s super accurate. I don’t use a suppressor but it came that way. I don’t see how a Rimfire would open up at the muzzle being threaded. There is a lot of barrel material there and not a lot of pressure. I think it’s more something that has been passed down as fact over the years but doesn’t hold in reality.
linebaugh
Silver $$ Contributor
You are absolutely incorrect. I can for certain tell you that after threading a .224 barrel to 1/2 x24 you can open the bore. It can be felt with a set of reamer bushings plain as day. It was for this reason I quit cutting smaller threads.
Now to your point of still being accurate. Yes indeed they can still be accurate as there are tons of them out there that prove it. If you are building for ultimate accuracy then I would suggest not threading is probably a reasonable idea. Additionally for tuner use it MAY be better to have a clamp on vs threaded for a better contact patch and better harmonics transfer.
Well wouldn't be the first time LOL but as you mentioned I go by what I see on target for accuracy and not what a gauge or bushing shows. Some get too wrapped around the axle on numbers and ignore actual shooting.
I have not used the ATS on my Vudoo but my friend did and he said it worked great. I Have used it on my 6.5 Creedmoor and it definitely makes a huge difference for accuracy.
linebaugh,
You are absolutely correct. Any metallurgy book will confirm your finding. When you reduce the outside of a barrel (contour) you will open up the inside hole. This is due to stress being relieved from the metal.
The effect on accuracy can be debated. Of course everything about accuracy can be debated. One mans killer is another mans dud.
That said, since we shoot lead bullets in our rimfires and lead is an inert metal, meaning it has no shape memory (will not spring back once bent) it has long been thought that the crown of a rimfire barrel should be at the smallest and roundest part of the barrel.
Hence taper lapping. It can also be argued that the taper isn't necessary, and that is true if the barrels bore was perfect. No one I know has ever seen a perfect barrel bore. To be honest you would not know it was perfect if you did see it. Therefore, the best way to insure the crown is in the smallest roundest part of the bore is to taper lap it.
There are many guys and gals out there that are perfectly happy with how their rifles shoot and that is great.
It is also great that one can choose to use science or not.
TKH
You are absolutely correct. Any metallurgy book will confirm your finding. When you reduce the outside of a barrel (contour) you will open up the inside hole. This is due to stress being relieved from the metal.
The effect on accuracy can be debated. Of course everything about accuracy can be debated. One mans killer is another mans dud.
That said, since we shoot lead bullets in our rimfires and lead is an inert metal, meaning it has no shape memory (will not spring back once bent) it has long been thought that the crown of a rimfire barrel should be at the smallest and roundest part of the barrel.
Hence taper lapping. It can also be argued that the taper isn't necessary, and that is true if the barrels bore was perfect. No one I know has ever seen a perfect barrel bore. To be honest you would not know it was perfect if you did see it. Therefore, the best way to insure the crown is in the smallest roundest part of the bore is to taper lap it.
There are many guys and gals out there that are perfectly happy with how their rifles shoot and that is great.
It is also great that one can choose to use science or not.
TKH
You guys make me feel like a flat earther. LOL
Rob01,
Making you feel bad was not my intent. If I did that I apologize.
I was only hoping to educate. Learning from each other is the true value of these forums.
Picking out the pearls of wisdom on the forums is the problem. You have to do a lot critical thinking and research before accepting information as true and correct. That is why I mentioned metallurgy books. If anyone doubts what I said they know where to go to check it out.
TKH
lol been on forums far too long to take anything like that to make me feel bad. I was joking.
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