Not much at that distance, if any. Temps are more important, IME. So, if you start out at 100 and it's 40°, then start at 400 and it's warmer when you start...adjust for that more than the 100-400 difference. IME, the difference between 100 and 1000 with my tuner is usually a mark or less. And if you're moving the tuner more than that at a time, you better know what you're doing. The fact that you're asking this question implies that you are not certain in how to use your tuner. I'm happy to be of help.Do you all find that you need to change the setting on your tuner, for different distances. Say, if you were getting good groups at one setting at 100 yds. Do you find a need to change your setting at 400 yds?
(Same gun, same load).
I too prefer more than some would call the typical tuner weight but I'm very curious how you come up with the specific 10% of barrel weight figure. I'm not disagreeing but rather, would like to know how you came to this conclusion. Also, how does tuner length and position of the weight relative to the muzzle factor into your conclusion? How about dampening? Thanks in advance.When you are close you can’t see the thou or 3 the group is out. When you go back it shows up.There is not one tune all the way back. The harmonics show can be set for a particular distance. If you can’t see this your tuner is to light. 10% barrel weight
My thoughts are along with Dusty here, the bullet doesn't stay in the barrel any longer shooting 1000 yards than it does 100 yards. The thing I think of is does the bullet change during flight? As it slows down does it oscillate or does the loss of speed farther from the barrel cause any other effects? I don't know, I'm asking.I've seen that a tuned barrel is a tuned barrel. It doesn't know how far you're shooting.
My thoughts are along with Dusty here, the bullet doesn't stay in the barrel any longer shooting 1000 yards than it does 100 yards. The thing I think of is does the bullet change during flight? As it slows down does it oscillate or does the loss of speed farther from the barrel cause any other effects? I don't know, I'm asking.
I think positive compensation is the only explanation for rifle and tune changes for different yardages. We likely have some degree of this with or without a tuner and I don't think a tuner guaranteeso that we get 100% of what pc can offer, but they help. If 100% is even attainable, I think our guns would look very different than we are accustomed to. Suffice it you say that I've seen guns that are in tune, or very, very near from 100-1000 and I've seen them that require a small adjustment.If you tune with powder charge I bet it is not usually the same from 100 to 1000. I would say the same for a tuner.
Well I think we all tune with powder, bullet, case capacity, OAL and many other things, my thoughts are if you have everything else 100% the tuner does exactly that, tune.If you tune with powder charge I bet it is not usually the same from 100 to 1000. I would say the same for a tuner.
Great Question!Well I think we all tune with powder, bullet, case capacity, OAL and many other things, my thoughts are if you have everything else 100% the tuner does exactly that, tune.
If you tune with powder charge I bet it is not usually the same from 100 to 1000. I would say the same for a tuner.
All good and valid points Terry!!Test it!
We often think if something works for me, or not, that it's the only answer. It is possible, even likely, that others will have different results. That's why we should all do our own testing. Your test may be the next breakthrough.
I too prefer more than some would call the typical tuner weight but I'm very curious how you come up with the specific 10% of barrel weight figure. I'm not disagreeing but rather, would like to know how you came to this conclusion. Also, how does tuner length and position of the weight relative to the muzzle factor into your conclusion? How about dampening? Thanks in advance.
Tuner weight beyond 10% is demisioning return for extra weight and becomes an over all weight issue. Start flus and adjust out. I use cutlas bearings insert threaded sleeve or thread in situ. Make another sleeve glue threaded sleeve onto barrel screw both together go shooting. Use two grub screws as lock screws must not touch the out side metal only lock the two sleeves ok in the rubber. Sorry about this post being rough using very small key pad. Cut Very fine thread. Winding out you can get a vertical line of shot holes keep going out it will become a horizontal line then screw in half way back to vertical plus a little is your tune. The group maybe hollow the little bit allows true wind on the target not barrel whip. Doing this shows the tune for the shorts is similar but shows differences at longer ranges.
I'm sorry..I should've been more specific. What if it's too light and how did you conclude ideal tuner weight to be 10% of barrel weight? Thanks in advance. --Mike EzellTuner weight beyond 10% is demisioning return for extra weight and becomes an over all weight issue. Start flus and adjust out. I use cutlas bearings insert threaded sleeve or thread in situ. Make another sleeve glue threaded sleeve onto barrel screw both together go shooting. Use two grub screws as lock screws must not touch the out side metal only lock the two sleeves ok in the rubber. Sorry about this post being rough using very small key pad. Cut Very fine thread. Winding out you can get a vertical line of shot holes keep going out it will become a horizontal line then screw in half way back to vertical plus a little is your tune. The group maybe hollow the little bit allows true wind on the target not barrel whip. Doing this shows the tune for the shorts is similar but shows differences at longer ranges.
To light and thread to course is much harder to get right. Trialing with fine thread on heavy varmit profile with heavy stock. Then put parallel barrel in light stock found same answer but under weight for F class. Called testing an idea. Because thimbles where not quite giving the answers needed. They were good for the shorts but just didn’t seem right going further out. Heavy thimbles are fussy to conditions so you really had to know you game, to hard for enjoyment. Harmonics is just another name for vibration dampening which I dealt with in my industry. The marine connection was because of a ready supply of made to order parts thinking outside the box. There is a least two other systems being used one with O rings and the other uses a large rubber mould on the barrel. Both tend be a version of thimbles just in different places on the barrel. While doing this we found out some things about stocks as well which changed the way we thought. The hacksaw came into play big time as well as the replicator.I'm sorry..I should've been more specific. What if it's too light and how did you conclude ideal tuner weight to be 10% of barrel weight? Thanks in advance. --Mike Ezell