• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Neck turning on a lathe

Rich S

Silver $$ Contributor
I just had my first go at turning necks on a lathe. I basically used the method Jackie Schmidt posted. https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/neck-turning-with-lathe/ I didn't like removing the dead center to pull the cases. I made a puller so I could leave the dead center in place. This also allowed use of the tail stock to push the brass on the same distance each time. Then a carriage stop can be used to cut the shoulder. It seemed fairly consistent. I turned at 400 rpm and 0.0022 feed rate. Any suggestions for improvement is appreciated

20200103_095958.jpg 20200103_105302.jpg
 
Last edited:
I like your idea for a dead center and puller. I'll be making the same for my lathe later when my lathe is freed from it's current project.
Nicely done!
 
I don't have a Mill so I can't make the puller (fantastic mod ) so I use a Lee case holder and a precision milled pin gauge in my chuck (mandrel in place for the pic) and it works fine for me.
 

Attachments

  • Neck Turner.jpg
    Neck Turner.jpg
    229.5 KB · Views: 384
My “lathe” is the Hornady neck turner that I use for the initial 2-3 shallow cuts. My final cut, is a very light “cut” that puts my neck thickness to within .0001. If you are looking for perfect, without spending a lot of $ on tools, call DJ @DJSBRS and have a conversation. His work is excellent.
Ben
 
I didnt have any issue holding tolerance. 1 pass will get them within 0.0001. I took 2 passes at the same setting. I figured the mandrel is fairly flexible so the second pass was more for piece of mind. Once set up it took about 1 min each for 1 pass or 1.5 to take 2 passes. I didnt do any brass prep. It took a while to set up and learn a method playing with old brass. Next time should be quicker to set up. The only investment was a $5 piece of HSS for the cutter. Much cheaper than my KM.
 
Last edited:
My turning lathe.
The K&M tool is the same tool I use to massage the final .001-.002 of neck thickness. Some may not know that the K&M tool “moves” the brass in the neck and doesn't actually cut the brass. No brass chips involved.
Ben
 
The K&M tool is the same tool I use to massage the final .001-.002 of neck thickness. Some may not know that the K&M tool “moves” the brass in the neck and doesn't actually cut the brass. No brass chips involved.
Ben

Roll forming?
 
I find that for me the best way to hold the case is by the body in a chuck in the tailstock.

So the cutter has to rotate. I mount the cutter in a collet and get good results.

--Jerry
 
I turn mine such as Rich does.
Turn a one time use arbor to .244" OD, push the cartridge on the arbor with a live center, start the cut from left to right by hand, kiss the shoulder and then engage the auto feed back to the arbor/chuck.
I'll be making a dead center and puller to pull the cartridge off the arbor as Rich shows above.

NECK 2.JPG
 
Last edited:
Not to derail the thread, but was wondering if the expansion and then contraction (sizing) of the neck affect the consistency of the neck material thickness? Seems like it would have some affect as the metal won't expand and contract evenly.
I don't turn but enjoy learning.
 
go read the original referred thread on doing this.
Not to derail the thread, but was wondering if the expansion and then contraction (sizing) of the neck affect the consistency of the neck material thickness? Seems like it would have some affect as the metal won't expand and contract evenly.
I don't turn but enjoy learning.
 
Not to derail the thread, but was wondering if the expansion and then contraction (sizing) of the neck affect the consistency of the neck material thickness? Seems like it would have some affect as the metal won't expand and contract evenly.
I don't turn but enjoy learning.
At least not that I can measure. Very consistent wall thickness. OD readings of brass while the on mandrel match wall thickness readings + mandrel diameter. No different than the results you get seating a bullet.
 
Rich,
Nice job. I think.that you are getting superior results. I like that you are able to turn into the neck slightly with a matched tool like PMA does on their neck turner. I think that I will try doing it this way.

With that said, how are you pushing the case onto the mandrel in the chuck with the tailstock and getting your center in the primer pocket to repeat that position each time?

Danny

I just had my first go at turning necks on a lathe. I basically used the method Jackie Schmidt posted. https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/neck-turning-with-lathe/ I didn't like removing the dead center to pull the cases. I made a puller so I could leave the dead center in place. This also allowed use of the tail stock to push the brass on the same distance each time. Then a carriage stop can be used to cut the shoulder. It seemed fairly consistent. I turned at 400 rpm and 0.0022 feed rate. Any suggestions for improvement is appreciated

View attachment 1149111 View attachment 1149112
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,268
Messages
2,214,898
Members
79,496
Latest member
Bie
Back
Top