Dusty Stevens
Shiner
I have a great scott barrel vise and it sure does work good
Bench vise for barrel
- Thread starter Mathewjp
- Start date
Sweet nice looking vice.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Ill take a pic. Its too big for any of my benches and weighs too much to use very often. I used it when i welded a lot and it was on a big thick plate table. Now it resides on the floor in the way right next to that new toolpost grinder ill never use. I was pretty proud of it until i watched that video. Wilton didnt fare too well!!
Improvise overcome an adapt I like that.
Here is a small collection of action type wrenches to remove barrels with.
Last edited:
AckleymanII
Gold $$ Contributor
LarryScott's vise is fantastic in taking off Rem Factory barrels.
Showoff....
I made my own, just because...
I've pulled milsurps needed over 1000 lbs of torque with it, no slip.
For factory barrels, you need a stout vise- and fitted split bushings. The small Bald Eagles, Vipers, etc.- the "one size fits all" vises are fine for new builds or those that have already been spun off. I have one as well for quick/easy barrels.
Removing barrels that require hundreds of ft. lbs. of torque requires not only a lot of clamping power in terms of nuts and bolts, but well-fitted bushings to maximize contact area. The "universal" vises will only contact the barrel at several points with very little actual contact surface.
Commercially available- Brownell's is my choice. Their barrel vise will take anything thrown at it, they have common bushings available (both steel and aluminum), as well as blanks for machining or epoxy casts.
Ditto for needing an equally stout action wrench that fits the action correctly. DO NOT EVER use a through- receiver type action wrench to remove a factory barrel, you will twist and distort the action. Again, Brownells (I do use their action wrench)- they have common make heads available for most commercial actions.
If it's a one-time deal for you, it's not going to be worth the investment, just take it to a local smith...
I've pulled milsurps needed over 1000 lbs of torque with it, no slip.
For factory barrels, you need a stout vise- and fitted split bushings. The small Bald Eagles, Vipers, etc.- the "one size fits all" vises are fine for new builds or those that have already been spun off. I have one as well for quick/easy barrels.
Removing barrels that require hundreds of ft. lbs. of torque requires not only a lot of clamping power in terms of nuts and bolts, but well-fitted bushings to maximize contact area. The "universal" vises will only contact the barrel at several points with very little actual contact surface.
Commercially available- Brownell's is my choice. Their barrel vise will take anything thrown at it, they have common bushings available (both steel and aluminum), as well as blanks for machining or epoxy casts.
Ditto for needing an equally stout action wrench that fits the action correctly. DO NOT EVER use a through- receiver type action wrench to remove a factory barrel, you will twist and distort the action. Again, Brownells (I do use their action wrench)- they have common make heads available for most commercial actions.
If it's a one-time deal for you, it's not going to be worth the investment, just take it to a local smith...
I've used a bench vice and bored wooden blocks to put barrels on, tightening to about 40 ft lbs. I have a 40 ton hydraulic press and I bore blocks on the lathe to fit the specific barrel I'm taking off. Honestly it's just as easy to cut the old barrel off. I just did one like this and unscrewed the remaining piece with my fingers.
LarryDScott
Site $$ Sponsor
If you are going to use a "GREATSCOTT" vise to disassemble
a new 700 let me start you off in the right direction. First this vise needs a very sturdy/heavy mounting surface. In my case I have a mount that fits the drawbar on my truck. It extends out about 3ft then up to waist level w/a steel
plate that the vise is bolted too. If you use a conventional bench it better be very heavy or bolted to the floor, because you will exert a lot of force to get the job done. The bolts that are fixed in the vise, do not need to be tightened to excess. Capturing the recoil lug is the secret to this vise. You do not need any bushings,rosin, leather, lead, wood, heat, penetrating oil, or even a hydraulic press for this vise to perform. What I use is a Holland rear entry wrench. You create no stress on the action, because the lugs on the wrench are the same as the ones on your bolt. A 3/4 inch ratchet, and a 4ft cheater bar.
Put the wrench fully against the back of the barrel. Place the ratchet on the back of the wrench. In my case I'm right handed, I cycle the ratchet handle up to the point when I slip the cheater bar on its laying on my right shoulder.
I'm now standing to the right of the vise and action. There is a small amount of play in the fit of the steel tube that goes in my draw bar. I rock the setup a couple of times,then on the 3rd rock, I hit it w/the intent of turning the truck over. Its the quick snap that makes the job seem simple. They break apart like breaking glass. This should take the guess work out of using the "GREAT SCOTT" barrel vise. LDS
a new 700 let me start you off in the right direction. First this vise needs a very sturdy/heavy mounting surface. In my case I have a mount that fits the drawbar on my truck. It extends out about 3ft then up to waist level w/a steel
plate that the vise is bolted too. If you use a conventional bench it better be very heavy or bolted to the floor, because you will exert a lot of force to get the job done. The bolts that are fixed in the vise, do not need to be tightened to excess. Capturing the recoil lug is the secret to this vise. You do not need any bushings,rosin, leather, lead, wood, heat, penetrating oil, or even a hydraulic press for this vise to perform. What I use is a Holland rear entry wrench. You create no stress on the action, because the lugs on the wrench are the same as the ones on your bolt. A 3/4 inch ratchet, and a 4ft cheater bar.
Put the wrench fully against the back of the barrel. Place the ratchet on the back of the wrench. In my case I'm right handed, I cycle the ratchet handle up to the point when I slip the cheater bar on its laying on my right shoulder.
I'm now standing to the right of the vise and action. There is a small amount of play in the fit of the steel tube that goes in my draw bar. I rock the setup a couple of times,then on the 3rd rock, I hit it w/the intent of turning the truck over. Its the quick snap that makes the job seem simple. They break apart like breaking glass. This should take the guess work out of using the "GREAT SCOTT" barrel vise. LDS
This is what they had us make at GS school back in the stone age. It works ok but it is a pain to use. The action wrenches work real well. A universal and Remington.
If I was to do it over I would make one like tobnpr or buy one from Larry.
Google barrel vise images. Lots of pics for ideas.
I have seen a bench vise used with pre-fab wood blocks but it was a monster Columbian, probably 300 lbs. ~Bob D
If I was to do it over I would make one like tobnpr or buy one from Larry.
Google barrel vise images. Lots of pics for ideas.
I have seen a bench vise used with pre-fab wood blocks but it was a monster Columbian, probably 300 lbs. ~Bob D
https://youtu.be/wdXSYb981WE
Mathew, a customer of mine sent me the link above. He is taking off a WWII Mosin Nagant barrel that has been on for 70 years. Take a look.
Bob Pastor
LarryDScott
Site $$ Sponsor
up
Well...
His feet never came off the ground, so despite the long cheater one can't determine how much force was placed on it.
I've had to tighten the 1", grade 8 bolts on my shop-made with a 4' cheater hard as my 220 lbs can push on (most of the two-plus dozen MN's I've rebarreled) before I can even hang on the bar to break it free. The lil' Grizzly I have, no way.
But- it's not Bob's, so I'll be calling to order one and try it for myself. If it'll somehow grip 100 year old rusted milsurps without needing custom split bushings I'll be a believer.
Might even make for an interesting "test" if I can rig up a big cheater bar to hang a couple of hundred pounds of weight.
His feet never came off the ground, so despite the long cheater one can't determine how much force was placed on it.
I've had to tighten the 1", grade 8 bolts on my shop-made with a 4' cheater hard as my 220 lbs can push on (most of the two-plus dozen MN's I've rebarreled) before I can even hang on the bar to break it free. The lil' Grizzly I have, no way.
But- it's not Bob's, so I'll be calling to order one and try it for myself. If it'll somehow grip 100 year old rusted milsurps without needing custom split bushings I'll be a believer.
Might even make for an interesting "test" if I can rig up a big cheater bar to hang a couple of hundred pounds of weight.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
^ keep us posted. Bobs vise sure looks good
I have a Viper that I use primarily on my Kelbly actions but I wouldn't want to abuse it trying to pull a factory barrel and possibly do damage to the vise.
It's not that I don't think it would be up to the task but would rather use something else, that and it is mounted behind my press on my load bench inside the house.
Not an ideal place to be soaking something with penetrating oil or using heat.
It's not that I don't think it would be up to the task but would rather use something else, that and it is mounted behind my press on my load bench inside the house.
Not an ideal place to be soaking something with penetrating oil or using heat.
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.