Beginner seating depth?

[clunker]

I just started reading about the procedure for initial seating depth and didn't realize that I need a once-fired case that has not been resized. Unfortunately, I already resized all my brass (mostly practicing). Is there any way to do this with resized brass, or do I have to wait for a day without 30 MPH winds so I can get more once-fired brass?

 

[David Christian]

You can use any case that will allow a stripped bolt to close such that there is no friction between the case and chamber. See Alex Wheeler’s stripped bolt video on finding your lands for details.

With this technique you will seat a bullet long and continuously seat it a bit deeper until you find success. A fully sized case is needed, not a fired case.

 

[jepp2]

Is there any way to do this with resized brass

1. You can cut 4 slits in the case neck, and let the lands seat the bullet into the case.
2. You can use a Sharpie and color the bullet, keep seating deeper until you no long see land marks on the bullet
3. Use the Hornady OAL gauge and modified case
4. You can use a similar setup to this:

 

[clunker]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I wanted to scout some bird hunting land today anyway, so I just popped a couple rounds while I was there. The sharpie trick did not work. I tried it ten times and got ten different numbers.

You can use any case that will allow a stripped bolt to close such that there is no friction between the case and chamber. See Alex Wheeler’s stripped bolt video on finding your lands for details.

With this technique you will seat a bullet long and continuously seat it a bit deeper until you find success. A fully sized case is needed, not a fired case.

This method seems like a good approach, but I'm not sure I feel comfortable disassembling the bolt quite yet. Seems like there's a lot of tension in those springs.

 

[K22]

You don't need a case - you can use an inexpensive and simple tool like the Frankfort Arsenal Tool to measure the distance to the lands.

 

[David Christian]

@clunker, if you don’t have a bolt tool like this:
https://www.cabelas.com/product/REMINGTON-BOLT-DISASSEMBLY-TOOL/2006397.uts
you can simply use a string and a penny like this:

you will also want to remove the ejector, like shown here:

I permanently remove all of mine.

 

[clunker]

The firing pin was easy, and I can handle the ejector after I get an appropriate size punch. I can't find any information on how to remove the extractor.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

You don’t need to remove the extractor. Just hook case rim under extractor and guide it in and out of chamber straight with your left hand through the loading port. I think Alex shows it in that video.

 

[clunker]

In the video, he suggests removing it. The extractor sticks out a tiny bit beyond the rest of the bolt, so it will make a difference.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Not arguing, but if you hook case rim under extractor and hold it there the case will be flat against the bolt. At least this has been my experience with 700 types of bolt.

 

[grovey]

Get the Hornady setup, you'll need it to get a good repeatable measurement on the ojive anyhow. Your trying to get a repeatable reference point.

 

[jepp2]

The sharpie trick did not work. I tried it ten times and got ten different numbers.

??? How did you go about trying it?

You just keep seating the bullet deeper until you can no longer see marks left by the lands. Should just give you 1 number. But you do have to look closely. It will be very minor marks typically left by the edges of the lands. Just did my 17 Remington that way a month ago. Worked as it should have. Always darken the bullet after each try, to remove the marks.

 

[clunker]

Not arguing, but if you hook case rim under extractor and hold it there the case will be flat against the bolt. At least this has been my experience with 700 types of bolt.

I stand corrected. with a cartridge that is known to be a good distance from the lands, the extractor does not seem to have any effect. Just went through the process, and the method works perfectly. Thanks everyone.

Now the big question. How far off the lands do you guy typically start seating? This is for a 6.5 Creedmoor.

 

[JFrank]

I start .002 from a hard jam

 

[Brians356]

Now the big question. How far off the lands do you guy typically start seating? This is for a 6.5 Creedmoor.

It's totally arbitrary, but if you feel you want to be very close to the lands, might as well start testing at .002" and work back. But many choose a jump like .020" for a starting point, e.g. Erik's Cortina's popular thread "Long range load development at 100 yards". If you're shooting a solid "copper" hunting bullet like TSX, many find they like a lot of jump, so start way out at .090".
-

 

[clunker]

Would you guys recommend determining powder charge first? Maybe dial it back to .005 off the lands while increasing powder loads, looking for signs of pressure. Then worry about seating depth.

 

[Shinbone]

4. You can use a similar setup to this:
View attachment 1140488

I like this set-up! I use the plastic version from Frankford Arsenal https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012713931?pid=190644 This measurement tool would work better if it was metal, as in the photo.

Are the metal collars home made, or can they be purchased somewhere?

Thanks!

 

[Lone Hunter]

Would you guys recommend determining powder charge first? Maybe dial it back to .005 off the lands while increasing powder loads, looking for signs of pressure. Then worry about seating depth.

Read this from Berger. It works. Get opinions and see what works for you.

https://bergerbullets.com/vld-making-shoot/

 

[clunker]

Read this from Berger. It works. Get opinions and see what works for you.

https://bergerbullets.com/vld-making-shoot/

Excellent write-up. Thank you.

 

[jepp2]

Are the metal collars home made, or can they be purchased somewhere?

PM sent with contact information.