Whats the best reasonbly oriced gunsmith lathe?

[jghoghunter]

I have a PM1340GT, its turned out some exceptional barrels. Mine is single phase, I'd go 3 phase with a VFD if I had to do it over. Not sure it's worth converting though. I upgraded the chuck and tool post, both money well spent I think

I have a couple of barrels chambered with this lathe and they all shoot very well and the machine work is excellent. Thanks Gunnermhr

 

[butchlambert]

Quote from kurz:

My 10EE worked just fine working through the headstock when you make the fixture to accomplish this. It's not hard but takes time to machine it. This occurs more frequently with that style machine as well as some of the HAAS CNCs. I used it that way for over 10 years building precision bolt action rifles before passing it on to my friend to go with his Rivett.

Problem is you have to use the "GORDY" method that way. That is why I use my Clausing to do mine in the headstock.

Another quote: As long as the operator is up to the level required.

Kurz, the product will be the same. A good smith can do a good job on any of these machines and a Hardringe or Monarch will not make a better job from a homeshop smith. You allude to have been turning knobs for years. Tell me how a person can do a better job of chambering on a Rivett, Monarch, or Hardringe.
I'm not questioning your ability, just wanting an explanation of your post.

I'm headed to my other shop, but will check back in this afternoon.

 

[Ramblerman]

Gotta PM1340GT and love it...if I were going to do it all again though and for a bit more money but still in your price range...I'd consider a Sharp 1340VS or bigger.

http://www.sharp-industries.com/product/1340vs

 

[paperpuncher]

It's a crying shame the Hardinge HLV only has a 1.25" spindle bore.

That is so true it is almost the perfect lathe, oh and the fact that they usually sell for 10-20 thousand dollars used in nice shape
Heres a Hardinge CLONE for sale locally
https://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/d/broadview-heights-wilton-tool-room/7001076149.html

 

[gunnermhr]

Gotta PM1340GT and love it...if I were going to do it all again though and for a bit more money but still in your price range...I'd consider a Sharp 1340VS or bigger.

http://www.sharp-industries.com/product/1340vs

What features do you prefer with the Sharp over the PM. I'm not a machinist and had a hard time deciding. It came down to price and reviews. There were so many positive reviews and good write up's on practical machinst web site I decided on the PM. I also like the fact that it's a relatively small buisness compared to Grizzly, Jet, and most other suppliers. Matt, the owner, handles most of the questions and service issues and is very familiar with his products. He met me on a Saturday to pick up my lathe and they're usually closed. They are a top notch company

 

[Ramblerman]

What features do you prefer with the Sharp over the PM. I'm not a machinist and had a hard time deciding. It came down to price and reviews. There were so many positive reviews and good write up's on practical machinst web site I decided on the PM. I also like the fact that it's a relatively small buisness compared to Grizzly, Jet, and most other suppliers. Matt, the owner, handles most of the questions and service issues and is very familiar with his products. He met me on a Saturday to pick up my lathe and they're usually closed. They are a top notch company

Matt's great and so are their products for the money... no question...but if I would have had a bit more coin and room to throw at my machines and was still going to buy new, then definitely would have liked the Sharp with it's stomp brake...the PM1440GT has it...but it's bigger.

Sharp quality is also arguably better...it's a commercial product and therefore priced accordingly...when I look at my used First (now called Sharp) Bridgeport-clone mill, you can see and feel a difference in how they are put together...and the Sharp 1340 lathe is about 400lbs more than the PM...just my $.02...

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I like very good bearings. Having the bore dialed as close to zero as possible is my #1 concern. The weight of the lathe is not a big concern as we are making very light cuts relative to normal machine work. Keep in mind most guys are holding their work in a copper ring, heavy cuts are asking for movement. I would rebuild a good US made lathe before buying a cheap import. I want a machine with less than .0001" tir in the spindle. Everything else can be worked around.

 

[butchlambert]

I like very good bearings. Having the bore dialed as close to zero as possible is my #1 concern. The weight of the lathe is not a big concern as we are making very light cuts relative to normal machine work. Keep in mind most guys are holding their work in a copper ring, heavy cuts are asking for movement. I would rebuild a good US made lathe before buying a cheap import. I want a machine with less than .0001" tir in the spindle. Everything else can be worked around.

You are correct!

 

[TrxR]

Are there any US made brands that a person should avoid?

 

[hpshooter]

"Are there any US made brands that a person should avoid?"

Atlas and its versions sold thru Sears and Montgomery Ward. They are lightly built and are sufficient for model making and small repair work. Most have lead a hard life from what I have seen. I have an Atlas horizontal bench mill inherited from my dad and at one time had the use of an Atlas shaper, both limited to very light cuts and marginial in rigidity.

 

[Dud]

I was tempted by a cheap Atlas Clausing lathe. I think they are better than the other Atlas models.

The one that tempted me looked like it led an easy life (in pictures) but I never got my hands on it to really judge it's quality.

 

[butchlambert]

Are there any US made brands that a person should avoid?

Not any particularly, just the real light weight and worn out ones. I have said you can do a pretty good chamber with worn out ways and out of level, but if you do any other work, get one in good shape.

 

[AccelR8]

I bought this LeBlond for 250 bucks. I have to move it next week.

I have an Atlas/Craftsman 12x36, I traded a Harbor Freight benchtop lathe for it some 12 or 14 years ago. I have done tons of work with it. I've chambered, cut tenons and threaded barrels, threaded muzzles, profiled barrels. I can profile an AR15 barrel relatively easily, using the steady rest to prevent chatter. I profiled a 25 inch blank once with a straight taper. It was a constant battle with chatter and took a very long time. I am not going to try that again any time soon!

 

[338 Mollett]

I like very good bearings. Having the bore dialed as close to zero as possible is my #1 concern. The weight of the lathe is not a big concern as we are making very light cuts relative to normal machine work. Keep in mind most guys are holding their work in a copper ring, heavy cuts are asking for movement. I would rebuild a good US made lathe before buying a cheap import. I want a machine with less than .0001" tir in the spindle. Everything else can be worked around.

That is why I have an Eisen.The bearings are German,and the bore holds that kind of runout.There is another lathe I lust after that is about right in size and extreme in quality ,that is an Emco I think they are Austrian.But for 35k and doesn't hold a tighter bore runout the choice was simple.

 

[butchlambert]

That is why I have an Eisen.The bearings are German,and the bore holds that kind of runout.There is another lathe I lust after that is about right in size and extreme in quality ,that is an Emco I think they are Austrian.But for 35k and doesn't hold a tighter bore runout the choice was simple.

Dwight Scott has an Emco Maier lathe and I really like it. Rockwell makes a great chambering and gunsmith lathe.

 

[butchlambert]

I bought this LeBlond for 250 bucks. I have to move it next week.

I have an Atlas/Craftsman 12x36, I traded a Harbor Freight benchtop lathe for it some 12 or 14 years ago. I have done tons of work with it. I've chambered, cut tenons and threaded barrels, threaded muzzles, profiled barrels. I can profile an AR15 barrel relatively easily, using the steady rest to prevent chatter. I profiled a 25 inch blank once with a straight taper. It was a constant battle with chatter and took a very long time. I am not going to try that again any time soon!

The LeBlond is a 1929 model?

 

[AccelR8]

The LeBlond is a 1929 model?

Not sure. I was thinking 1940s but there's no documentation with it. Ir could be a 1929. I will find out from LeBlond.

The hole through the spindle is about 1.100" (measured with a caliper), the spindle is about 20" long. L-00 spindle nose I think. So not an ideal "gunsmith" lathe but honestly I can do pretty accurate work on my little Atlas/Craftsman.

 

[butchlambert]

Not sure. I was thinking 1940s but there's no documentation with it. Ir could be a 1929. I will find out from LeBlond.

The hole through the spindle is about 1.100" (measured with a caliper), the spindle is about 20" long. L-00 spindle nose I think. So not an ideal "gunsmith" lathe but honestly I can do pretty accurate work on my little Atlas/Craftsman.

Good lathe and looks like my old Leblond that I had in yesteryear.

 

[jonbearman]

Thanks for all the replys. The one offshore lathe we are looking at is the PM14-40 but they wont install a readout at least according to my friend. I called LeBlond and the 14-40 they had with what we wanted was just a shade under 25000.00 which is a quite a bit more then we wanted to spend.

 

[Doug Beach]

Thanks for all the replys. The one offshore lathe we are looking at is the PM14-40 but they wont install a readout at least according to my friend. I called LeBlond and the 14-40 they had with what we wanted was just a shade under 25000.00 which is a quite a bit more then we wanted to spend.

PM will install a DRO, unless something has changed recently.