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Squaring Threading tool up without a Fishtail

Well,
For starters I do have a fishtail but my carbide insert has such a small threading tip and my cut out on my fishtail is too big. So I put a mag base on my way of the lathe and let a test indicator go back and forth on the side of the threading tool that's in my holder by moving my cross slide. Will this work?
A Leaphart
 
Yes it will work fine if you have a good quality tool thats straight. Thats how i do it because the fishtail just doesnt cut it for my tools on a barrel shank especially. Not enough length on the shank. Havent used a fish tail in a long time. You can even loosen the toolpost and square the toolbit against the freshly squared off face of the barrel if you want to be even faster.
 
Thanks for that reminder Dusty. I'd forgotten that was one way I'd done it, way back when.
I'd say more accurate than trying to use .050 to .065 surface - if that much, pitch dependent.
 
Face a Piece of stock, set your compound at 30.5°, flush the leading edge of the threading tool with the cut face, then move your compound to 29.5° before threading. Tool should be exactly 30° to axis and compound is set correctly. If you like to feed at 30° just set compound to 30° and flush. Just one way of doing it.
 
What on earth kind of tool are you using? Most threading tools with carbide inserts are designed to set perpendicular to the workpiece axis. I have never used a fishtail with a carbide threading insert, just square the side of the holder as you are doing.
Rowdier,
I’m sorry maybe I should have went into more detail. I have thread with HSS in the past and was tought to use a fishtail now I have carbide threading insert to use. Let’s get back to the tool holder. My tool post will hold up to a 1’ tool and the end of a rifle barrel will go into some what the slot for the tool.My tool post is a Original Rapid and the tool hold off the center peace moves. I think the indicator is best for my set up.
 
Yes it will work fine if you have a good quality tool thats straight. Thats how i do it because the fishtail just doesnt cut it for my tools on a barrel shank especially. Not enough length on the shank. Havent used a fish tail in a long time. You can even loosen the toolpost and square the toolbit against the freshly squared off face of the barrel if you want to be even faster.
This is the way I have done it for years .After dialing in the barrel and facing off the end if that cut isn't square your screwed anyway.Alot of threading tools are recessed in the tool holder so I take a piece of tool stock to shim it against.
 
Screenshot_20191006-221559_Gallery.jpg

Run an indicator across the tool..... only way to guarentee square everytime. I used several different methods to square, but they all weren't true and I was seeing what I thought was tapper, it wasn't. Once the tool was indicated in the threads suddenly were absolutely perfect. As soon as the first thread started it would thread to the shoulder. Mind you, accuracy didn't show any issues, but in my mind I knew something wasn't right.

No sense in guessing, indicate.
 
Rowdier,
I’m sorry maybe I should have went into more detail. I have thread with HSS in the past and was tought to use a fishtail now I have carbide threading insert to use. Let’s get back to the tool holder. My tool post will hold up to a 1’ tool and the end of a rifle barrel will go into some what the slot for the tool.My tool post is a Original Rapid and the tool hold off the center peace moves. I think the indicator is best for my set up.
Maybe I wasn't clear, but we really are on the same page. Your method is perfectly acceptable. The fishtail should only be needed for hand ground threading tools.
 
If you’re using RH external full or partial profile inserts, just square them up against the face your chuck. No tools needed. 16tpi, 24tpi and 28tpi inserts shown.
 

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I've been using the fishtail but its not the way to go, especially for old eyes.

Its been mentioned to me to align the tool with the faces of the chuck jaws.

I've wondered how dependable this would be----that is, can I expect these surfaces
to be square to the spindle center line.

I'll have to put an indicator on this to be convinced.

A. Weldy
 
I've been using the fishtail but its not the way to go, especially for old eyes.

Its been mentioned to me to align the tool with the faces of the chuck jaws.

I've wondered how dependable this would be----that is, can I expect these surfaces
to be square to the spindle center line.

I'll have to put an indicator on this to be convinced.

A. Weldy

yes its perfect if you have a factory made threading tool (not hand ground). And in reality just how close does it need to be? I have put mine straight by eyeballing it to see what the consequences were. There were none. Dont get caught up in stuff that really doesnt matter
 

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