Brians356
Gold $$ Contributor
Ok, and I never said you said it did. Plenty of others have, in various threads in past few years.
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Jewell Trigger Problem, Won't Cock
- Thread starter Killick
- Start date
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butchlambert
Site $$ Sponsor
Any lubes that are non oil based? Of course!
Brians356
Gold $$ Contributor
Sure, FWIW, if by "oil" you mean "petroleum ". But lighter fluids and naptha are petroleum distillates and one may reasonably assume any oily film left behind would be petroleum-based. I hope I didn't miss your point entirely.
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butchlambert
Site $$ Sponsor
I think you did.
Brians356
Gold $$ Contributor
Life's too short.
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butchlambert
Site $$ Sponsor
Nope. Ya got yer graphite stuff, yer silicone stuff, yer molybdenum and related sulfide stuff.
Brians356
Gold $$ Contributor
That's not what you wrote. Say, rather than conduct a quiz, simple declarative sentences might better make your point.
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butchlambert
Site $$ Sponsor
Come on young feller, you're smarter than that. I will post again, "Are petroleum products the only lube"?
Thanks antelopedunde, you can read.
don't forget waterbased like KY
Astroglide, saliva, etc.
An informative thread - I never saw the internal workings of a Jewel trigger until now. It sort of reminds my of the wind-up alarm clocks I disassembled as a kid to see what made them tick. I don't see corrosion as much as caked on crud, debris, and possibly metal to metal contact that held contaminated fluids, that probably interfered with the internal workings of the trigger. I don't see much of a preventive design to keep both sides of the housing separated. Having the housing distorted enough to bind the internal parts could be unacceptable for such a high price item.
My first guess was inadequate sear/trigger contact was the problem causing the trigger to fail to cock.
I use Ronson lighter fluid on my simple, crude and relatively hard pulling triggers as recommended by their manufactures. Despite all efforts to keep crud out of them they still get fouled up and need periodic cleaning. I use my nail gun air compressor with the Ronson stuff to blast the crud out (being careful not to create an explosive Ronson mist).
The Kingsford stuff does not appear to be as volatile as the Ronson lighter fluid but I will compare the two when I light off the grill to cook salmon fillets this week end. The tape test sounds real valid.
My first guess was inadequate sear/trigger contact was the problem causing the trigger to fail to cock.
I use Ronson lighter fluid on my simple, crude and relatively hard pulling triggers as recommended by their manufactures. Despite all efforts to keep crud out of them they still get fouled up and need periodic cleaning. I use my nail gun air compressor with the Ronson stuff to blast the crud out (being careful not to create an explosive Ronson mist).
The Kingsford stuff does not appear to be as volatile as the Ronson lighter fluid but I will compare the two when I light off the grill to cook salmon fillets this week end. The tape test sounds real valid.
The screw that is on the trigger itself sets spring tension which can lighten trigger pull. I have seen guys try to lighten there trigger so much that it doesn't push the trigger forward for it to reset. I saw one guy lose his aggregate this year. When I asked him what happened, he said trigger wouldn't cock. He got out the instructions and reset everything, it still wouldn't work. I looked at it and saw the trigger wasn't being pushed forward to recock. I ran the screw in some and the trigger worked perfect. He said he read the instructions and it said that screw would lighten the trigger pull. That might be true but it is not a significant amount of pull. It needs to be pushed forward after pulling. Matt
I have been studying triggers quite carefully in the last few months because I am wanting to do some Remington trigger conversions and have been trying to come up with the best design possible without modifying the Remington housing.
What Jerry says about bolt jiggle is very true. Almost every trigger I have had my hands on will fire if the bolt is partially raised and lowered a few times, especially if it is done quickly.
The fact is the only trigger that I have that won't is a Jewel. I have worked it every way I could think of and can't make it fire.
I don't think any of them would go off under normal competition use, but the working the bolt is death to them.
As for your Jewel not cocking, you did not mention what pull weight you are set at, but the trigger pull weight needs to be lighter than the force exerted by the return spring. If we are talking a 2 ounce trigger then I would think the sear engagement would have to be too heavy or the trigger is dirty and not moving freely.
Jewell recommends cleaning with lighter fluid and no lubrication there after. You can remove one side plate and take a look with out much fear of parts going every where.
What Jerry says about bolt jiggle is very true. Almost every trigger I have had my hands on will fire if the bolt is partially raised and lowered a few times, especially if it is done quickly.
The fact is the only trigger that I have that won't is a Jewel. I have worked it every way I could think of and can't make it fire.
I don't think any of them would go off under normal competition use, but the working the bolt is death to them.
As for your Jewel not cocking, you did not mention what pull weight you are set at, but the trigger pull weight needs to be lighter than the force exerted by the return spring. If we are talking a 2 ounce trigger then I would think the sear engagement would have to be too heavy or the trigger is dirty and not moving freely.
Jewell recommends cleaning with lighter fluid and no lubrication there after. You can remove one side plate and take a look with out much fear of parts going every where.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
A jewell is a 3 lever design so thats how it can be 2oz and not slam fire. You can convert a remington to 3 lever but in its current factory form itll never get there
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