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Best Trigger for Remington 700

I like two stage triggers and have a Huber Concepts on my Rem 700. It was not cheap but I really like it. Take it up to the point of release and then it is just a mind thing crisp as. I really like the two stage being able to take up slack as in I am prepared for the shot when the coach says go, or the flags do the right thing and then it just lets go.

A sealed unit but I just run a bit of Silicon spray lubricant thru it every now and again to rinse it out.
 
I like two stage triggers and have a Huber Concepts on my Rem 700. It was not cheap but I really like it. Take it up to the point of release and then it is just a mind thing crisp as. I really like the two stage being able to take up slack as in I am prepared for the shot when the coach says go, or the flags do the right thing and then it just lets go.

A sealed unit but I just run a bit of Silicon spray lubricant thru it every now and again to rinse it out.



Silicon spray??
 
I like two stage triggers and have a Huber Concepts on my Rem 700. It was not cheap but I really like it. Take it up to the point of release and then it is just a mind thing crisp as. I really like the two stage being able to take up slack as in I am prepared for the shot when the coach says go, or the flags do the right thing and then it just lets go.

A sealed unit but I just run a bit of Silicon spray lubricant thru it every now and again to rinse it out.
Triggers usually should never be lubed. Not designed for that (sear friction) and once lubed they accumulate dust. Something like Gun Scrubber or Quick Scrub III would be better if you need the long skinny red applicator tube. Or better yet, lighter fluid (naptha).

I have a fine Rekord two-stage trigger on a Weihrauch 24 (Beeman R7) air rifle. Great trigger!
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Timney is another good trigger, that often gets the nod for its durability under adverse field conditions.

Rifle Basix is another option. I believe Shilen also makes one.

Personally, I'm pretty happy with my stock Remington Xmark (internal adjustment only model), which is adjusted down to about 4# even, and has no creep or overtravel. If I upgrade, it will be to the Timney.
 
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Yes the Silicon spray is a good wash out it doesn't attract dirt like an oil would. It will run like liquid at first leave a very fine film and dry leaving no stickyness.
 
Yes the Silicon spray is a good wash out it doesn't attract dirt like an oil would. It will run like liquid at first leave a very fine film and dry leaving no stickyness.
It's "silicone" but fair enough. Still, unless the trigger maker recommended that to you, I'd ask them for an opinion on that. And if they endorse it, we'd all benefit from know what specific product you're using. Thanks!
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But not even as lubricant just for cleaning right?
No lighter fluid I've used leaves a film that I was aware of. In fact, folks (like your 'umble narrator) who repair very valuable old instruments like guitars and violins use lighter fluid (or VM&P naptha) to clean oil and wax residue from wood in preparation for gluing and/or refinishing. Nothing that leaves a residue would be appropriate for that! And one thing you never want to put on wood, lacquer or any finish is silicone if there's a chance you would want to refinish it in the future. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove from old finish or wood. Ask anyone.
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Enough lube is in the "coal oil", so yes it is a cleaner and lube. Do not use any lube on "any" trigger assembly.
That's a contradiction. If it's a cleaner and a lube, then ... it's a lube. If trigger makers disallow any lube, then they disallow lighter fluid. Since they recommend lighter fluid, then it's not a lube.
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Arnold jewell himself told me to take my trigger out of the rifle and soak it with ronsonol then shake it out after every match. I understand he has since recommended kingsford because of the price. If you soak a trigger like that and then take it apart 6mo later you can detect a very slight residue. Maybe out on a table you may not can. Back when bix first came out chris told me to clean them however i can but then finish with carb cleaner so that there wont be a residue. If you do that to a jewell they will rust but wont with ronsonol so that tells me there is a residue left after the soak
 
Arnold jewell himself told me to take my trigger out of the rifle and soak it with ronsonol then shake it out after every match. I understand he has since recommended kingsford because of the price. If you soak a trigger like that and then take it apart 6mo later you can detect a very slight residue. Maybe out on a table you may not can. Back when bix first came out chris told me to clean them however i can but then finish with carb cleaner so that there wont be a residue. If you do that to a jewell they will rust but wont with ronsonol so that tells me there is a residue left after the soak
I don't believe cleaning a Jewell trigger with brake cleaner or any other degreaser will cause it to rust. Nor do I believe Ronsonol will prevent one from rusting. Even if you think you've demonstrated this yourself, there's something else going on. There are scores of testimonials out on various forums to using Ronsonol as a degreaser, including in preparation for painting metal.
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Jewell recommends lighter fluid. Thats the only one ive ever heard of


I don't believe cleaning a Jewell trigger with brake cleaner or any other degreaser will cause it to rust. Nor do I believe Ronsonol will prevent one from rusting. Even if you think you've demonstrated this yourself, there's something else going on. There are scores of testimonials out on various forums to using Ronsonol as a degreaser, including in preparation for painting metal.
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Charcoal starter should work or if you can get xylene or toluene from a paint store that would be ok too. Maybe mineral spirits from a metal can would be ok. I'd set up my rifle on a bench outside with the trigger guard open and a catch tank under the trigger. Get one of these cheap wash bottles offa eBay and put some solvent in it and gently wash the trigger down from the top. Maybe use a hair dryer to dry it out. There's always the possibility that these solvents contain trace amounts of oil from transfer lines/hoses, etc. Be sure to empty the wash bottle when done.

I've got Jewell, Shilen and reworked Remington triggers and never had a problem with them gumming up.

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No lighter fluid I've used leaves a film that I was aware of. In fact, folks (like your 'umble narrator) who repair very valuable old instruments like guitars and violins use lighter fluid (or VM&P naptha) to clean oil and wax residue from wood in preparation for gluing and/or refinishing. Nothing that leaves a residue would be appropriate for that! And one thing you never want to put on wood, lacquer or any finish is silicone if there's a chance you would want to refinish it in the future. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove from old finish or wood. Ask anyone.
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Actually that is not true there are several articles about finishing wood gun stocks and CRC Silicon spray is recommended for use as the last step. There is one article in Australian Shooter and another by John Robinson in Guns Australia. Google John Robinson rifle stocks
 

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