• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Hack Gunsmith Wins With First Chamber Job

Many of you will find this humorous. I am the kind of “gunsmith” you guys like to ridicule. The kind you like to tell to stop doing gunsmith for himself and go find a real gunsmith. Sometimes I would have to agree with you...... ;)

I have no machining background. I flew USAF jets and now work in a corporation. I bought a nice new Taiwan built lathe (PM 1340GT) and mill (PM 833T) a year ago and jumped headfirst into all this. After having my lathe six months I chambered my first barrel, a fireforming barrel and it came out good. The next barrel was six months later when I decided the barrel I was shooting in LR BR just wasn’t competitive.

So I indicated in the new barrel, predrilled, bored, and the used a Mitituyo long reach indicator. The indicating took several hours over a couple days. I started with a drill bit just barely larger than the indicator body. The finish was so bad that by the time I had bored out a good finish, I wound up boring the hole out too much. So I parted it off and stared over, and predrilling has gone the way of the Dodo for me. Butch and Gordy notwithstanding..................

A couple days later I had the barrel re-indicated in, this time with the Interapid long reach. Threading was not going well, but I did the whole chamber job (BAT SV) anyway. I just didn’t like how the threads and tenon looked so I ordered another barrel.

Which the old barrel still in the lathe I turned off the threads and was determined that I would figure out how to make good threads and eliminate the lathe dial from jerking. I was told by my BR Smith friend to lower the threading cutter below center line, and that fixed it. I now have a Krieger 7.5 twist .237 4-groove barrel that will make a great 26.75" barrel for something..............

A couple days after the new barrel arrived, a 31 incher this time, I had it indicated in. I learned that I can push on the chuck and get .0002” movement. I called Matt of Precision Matthews and he said he said that was normal, and that he in fact had seen even more movement on heavier and higher end lathes. I also learned that when the barrel is centered the indicator will wobble around at about .0002”. I figured it just like shooting when the mirage is making the bull dance around and I aim for the center of the movement.

I was getting a nice finish on my tenon and it was cutting right in line with the cross slide movement as measured by a Mitituyo 1-2” digital mic. I was down to the last .009” and I made a cut just shy of .009”. Except when I measured it with the Mitituyo I said I didn’t make a cut. Well, the Mitituyo doesn’t lie so I cut again. I got the same measurement. That’s when I learned that the data hold button was easy to bump (who the hell would design it that way?). So I parted off the barrel and started again. And lectured myself--as ONLY a crusty old field grade officer can do--about how idiotic it was to not trust the lathe dials when measurements were confirming dial movement to well within .001" for the last 15 times I had checked..................

I indicated the barrel in again, and this time it only took an hour, which was a six-fold improvement from my earlier efforts. I used grizzly rods to get it close, then the Interapid to get it to zero.....and by that I mean the Interapid had movement within .0002" as best I could interpolate on a .0005" high quality indicator.

Things were going quite well this time. I had the cone within spec and with a good finish, the threads looked decent (even at 45 rpm), and I had .003 to .004" of gap with the action tightened on the barrel and the STD 6 BR go gauge inserted. I checked everything about 50 times then removed the barrel from the lathe, put it back in to crown in, the removed it again. As I was tightening the action to the barrel in the barrel vise, it went almost a 1/4 turn past where I did on the lathe. I went to bed.

I indicated the barrel in again. I had to cut the shoulder back, take a little off the cone, and deepen the chamber some. As I was pushing the reamer in the chamber, with a style floating reamer holder I'll not use again, it kissed the back of the chamber. CRAP!!! I just made my chamber slightly oversize. And I scratched it too. It took another .015" to clean up the scratch, and I obviously had to cut the shoulder back and trim the cone some more.

I was having a problem getting the action to make contact with the shoulder. I measured the tenon and it was at the minimum length, and I could see plenty of room left in the action for the barrel to screw in deeper. I thought and thought about it, and remembered that after cutting the cone that I had to clean up the threads so the action would start on the barrel threads. I wondered if the same thing could happen on the other end of the threads?

So I got out the 60 degree thread file and worked on the last couple threads immediately before the shoulder. Lo and behold that fixed it! I finally was able to complete everything. I discovered that by having my shoulder cutter at too much of an angle, I was collapsing the last thread before the shoulder. This time I really had it. Everything was within desired tolerances and I had excellent action to shoulder contact.

I was bothered by the oversize chamber but I decided to shoot it and see how bad it was. The brass comes out .001" larger in the butt than my fireforming barrel and the other barrel chambered with his reamer. Not optimum, but not a disaster either. I am a little concerned that brass life might be shorter than it should be.

I started load development very concerned if my hack gunsmithing had messed up this barrel. It actually seemed to shoot a little better than my previous barrel. The best load in excellent conditions gave me a 1/4" 5-shot group at 200 yds with a velocity ES of 6 fps. In subsequent short range testing that load only gave me 9/16" groups at 200, but it was in variable wind and the vertical was still about 1/4" and ES at 5 or 6.

Last weekend I took it to a 600 yd NBRSA match. I tweaked seating depth at 600 on Saturday and shot the match on Sunday, still wondering if I had messed up the barrel. I managed to take first for six target aggregate group size. It was windy and no one's groups were great, but given I shot as well as anyone else I am starting to think that maybe I didn't mess it up too badly.

Next barrel will be faster and easier with the 3,000 lessons I learned on this one.

The End. :):):)
 
Last edited:
Warm up your lathe bearings. Indicate. Do.

Indicating, even in a 6 jaw (Which I think is overkill) should take not even a cup of coffee.

Leaving a job in the (chuck??) for days is liable to ten kinds of movement.

Do as much between centres as you can.
 
Many of you will find this humorous. I am the kind of “gunsmith” you guys like to ridicule. The kind you like to tell to stop doing gunsmith for himself and go find a real gunsmith. Sometimes I would have to agree with you...... ;)

I have no machining background. I flew USAF jets and now work in a corporation. I bought a nice new Taiwan built lathe (PM 1340GT) and mill (PM 833T) a year ago and jumped headfirst into all this. After having my lathe six months I chambered my first barrel, a fireforming barrel and it came out good. The next barrel was six months later when I decided the barrel I was shooting in LR BR just wasn’t competitive.

So I indicated in the new barrel, predrilled, bored, and the used a Mitituyo long reach indicator. The indicating took several hours over a couple days. I started with a drill bit just barely larger than the indicator body. The finish was so bad that by the time I had bored out a good finish, I wound up boring the hole out too much. So I parted it off and stared over, and predrilling has gone the way of the Dodo for me. Butch and Gordy notwithstanding..................

A couple days later I had the barrel re-indicated in, this time with the Interapid long reach. Threading was not going well, but I did the whole chamber job (BAT SV) anyway. I just didn’t like how the threads and tenon looked so I ordered another barrel.

Which the old barrel still in the lathe I turned off the threads and was determined that I would figure out how to make good threads and eliminate the lathe dial from jerking. I was told by my BR Smith friend to lower the threading cutter below center line, and that fixed it. I now have a Krieger 7.5 twist .237 4-groove barrel that will make a great 26.75" barrel for something..............

A couple days after the new barrel arrived, a 31 incher this time, I had it indicated in. I learned that I can push on the chuck and get .0002” movement. I called Matt of Precision Matthews and he said he said that was normal, and that he in fact had seen even more movement on heavier and higher end lathes. I also learned that when the barrel is centered the indicator will wobble around at about .0002”. I figured it just like shooting when the mirage is making the bull dance around and I aim for the center of the movement.

I was getting a nice finish on my tenon and it was cutting right in line with the cross slide movement as measured by a Mitituyo 1-2” digital mic. I was down to the last .009” and I made a cut just shy of .009”. Except when I measured it with the Mitituyo I said I didn’t make a cut. Well, the Mitituyo doesn’t lie so I cut again. I got the same measurement. That’s when I learned that the data hold button was easy to bump (who the hell would design it that way?). So I parted off the barrel and started again. And lectured myself--as ONLY a crusty old field grade officer can do--about how idiotic it was to not trust the lathe dials when measurements were confirming dial movement to well within .001" for the last 15 times I had checked..................

I indicated the barrel in again, and this time it only took an hour, which was a six-fold improvement from my earlier efforts. I used grizzly rods to get it close, then the Interapid to get it to zero.....and by that I mean the Interapid had movement within .0002" as best I could interpolate on a .0005" high quality indicator.

Things were going quite well this time. I had the cone within spec and with a good finish, the threads looked decent (even at 45 rpm), and I had .003 to .004" of gap with the action tightened on the barrel and the STD 6 BR go gauge inserted. I checked everything about 50 times then removed the barrel from the lathe, put it back in to crown in, the removed it again. As I was tightening the action to the barrel in the barrel vise, it went almost a 1/4 turn past where I did on the lathe. I went to bed.

I indicated the barrel in again. I had to cut the shoulder back, take a little off the cone, and deepen the chamber some. As I was pushing the reamer in the chamber, with a style floating reamer holder I'll not use again, it kissed the back of the chamber. CRAP!!! I just made my chamber slightly oversize. And I scratched it too. It took another .015" to clean up the scratch, and I obviously had to cut the shoulder back and trim the cone some more.

I was having a problem getting the action to make contact with the shoulder. I measured the tenon and it was at the minimum length, and I could see plenty of room left in the action for the barrel to screw in deeper. I thought and thought about it, and remembered that after cutting the cone that I had to clean up the threads so the action would start on the barrel threads. I wondered if the same thing could happen on the other end of the threads?

So I got out the 60 degree thread file and worked on the last couple threads immediately before the shoulder. Lo and behold that fixed it! I finally was able to complete everything. I discovered that by having my shoulder cutter at too much of an angle, I was collapsing the last thread before the shoulder. This time I really had it. Everything was within desired tolerances and I had excellent action to shoulder contact.

I was bothered by the oversize chamber but I decided to shoot it and see how bad it was. The brass comes out .001" larger in the butt than my fireforming barrel and the other barrel chambered with his reamer. Not optimum, but not a disaster either. I am a little concerned that brass life might be shorter than it should be.

I started load development very concerned if my hack gunsmithing had messed up this barrel. It actually seemed to shoot a little better than my previous barrel. The best load in excellent conditions gave me a 1/4" 5-shot group at 200 yds with a velocity ES of 6 fps. In subsequent short range testing that load only gave me 9/16" groups at 200, but it was in variable wind and the vertical was still about 1/4" and ES at 5 or 6.

Last weekend I took it to a 600 yd NBRSA match. I tweaked seating depth at 600 on Saturday and shot the match on Sunday, still wondering if I had messed up the barrel. I managed to take first for six target aggregate group size. It was windy and no one's groups were great, but given I shot as well as anyone else I am starting to think that maybe I didn't mess it up too badly.

Next barrel will be faster and easier with the 3,000 lessons I learned on this one.

The End. :):):)
Congrats, glad this had a happy ending . Things will only get easier and faster from here . Congrats on winning the match also,that is quite a feat when you can say you did your own smithing.
 
I don't have any advice to pass on but I want to let you know how much I appreciated you sharing that with us. I don't have the equipment and the deep pockets for a better quality lathe or the actions/barrels but do make decent shooting hunting rifles capable of one inch or less five shot groups at 100 and a recent 6.5-.284 that would do 1.25" groups at 350 yards. I've done maybe fifty barrels but this last one, a 6.5 Swede, just about did me in. I was having mental block issues and had to walk away from it several times. Finally got it done, a great fit, into the stock and hope to do some test loads this weekend. I would say "Been There, Done That, Got the T-shirt". Good to know I'm not the only "hacker" around.

Kudos to the OP,
Robert
 
I am fooling around with my own equipment. Kind of on the same road you are. Sounds like your doing well, especially with no one over your shoulder.
One thing is for certain you darn sure are not going to learn any younger.
Jeff
 
Youre ready to go now- seeing your investment pay off finally. If i could lend one piece of advice- ditch the battery powered measuring tools and learn how to use dial calipers and regular old mics. Once you get used to it youll be able to use them almost as fast and theres no hold button
 
I personally like my chamber it be a couple thou larger at the base. If it is too small, it is hard to size enough for easy chambering. Working the brass? I use new brass for each match weekend.
Sounds like you are getting it under control Blaine.
 
You are learning like 90% of us probably did at one time. The route you are taking is the route I started out on. No training, just a desire.
All those little mistakes will beging to go away in a hurry after a dozen barrels or so but I am always learning and always trying to make things better even now after a few dozen. Don't let the other "gunsmiths" get in your head. If you are a gunsmith or do your own work and tell another gunsmith it seems like a given that you will be ridiculed. I have never seen a more condescending bunch. Lol
Just keep on keeping on and do your own thing. Let your mind wonder and continually think of new and better ways to approach each aspect. This is not rocket science for the most part so while I would encourage you to not overthink things I would also encourage you to think for yourself and do the best you can.

Great post. Thank you for sharing.
 
Another tip- grab some bs barrel blanks like a green mountain, er shaw or whatever they are and chamber them until they wont go in your lathe anymore. You can get 10+ chambers on a sub $100 blank. You dont have to shoot it but get it completely fit up. Its good practice trying to hit specific numbers
 
I personally like my chamber it be a couple thou larger at the base. If it is too small, it is hard to size enough for easy chambering. Working the brass? I use new brass for each match weekend.
Sounds like you are getting it under control Blaine.

Tubb was using new 6xc brass too. I am starting to think this might be the best idea ever. His Adaptive Rifle was shooting less than 1/4 MOA even out to 1100 yards. And the ammo was made in his ammo machine... I don't think he is reloading any more for 6xc.
 
Very cool, I haven't been able to try my new to me lathe yet. I have done some machining and lathe work before. But by no means would call myself a machinest.
I am envious. I hope I can do as well as you.
Congratulations on your win.
 
Very cool, I haven't been able to try my new to me lathe yet. I have done some machining and lathe work before. But by no means would call myself a machinest.
I am envious. I hope I can do as well as you.
Congratulations on your win.

You can do it. Ask any question you come across. Remember any question you have i’d bet theres another guy lurking that wants to know too
 
That is fantastic and really motivating to read. I’ve been doing some saving in the background hoping to be able to buy my first lathe in a few years and it’s awesome to see someone having success from their own work like this.

Congrats!
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,060
Messages
2,188,945
Members
78,679
Latest member
Janusz
Back
Top