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357 loads in 38 cases.

With all this discussion about 38 loaded to 357 levels I figured I would bring some pictures to the party.

From left to right.

38 Special. Winchester +P headstamp
38 Special. Winchester headstamp
357 Mag. Federal headstamp
357 Mag. GFL/Fiocchi headstamp

All case heads mic within .005 of each other.

The regular old Winchester 38 Special case had the thickest case web walls and the +P had the thinnest.

I am going out on a limb and say that the brass strength isnt the limiting factor here. Granted there is a ton of other flavors of brass out there and this is a really small sample.

Back in another life, your brass headstamp had to read 357 Magnum if you wanted to push heavy bullets to a certain velocity/power factor. But, moonclipped 357 cases are long and dont drop into a cylinder as easily and as fast as 38 Special cases do. Most of us just chopped off 357 brass at 38 Special length, added some slow burning powder and a 158-180 gn bullet. Most everyone was using a 8 shot S&W N Frame. No, it didnt make it right, but I can still count to ten on my hands. I have shot some of that old ammo out of a S&W 686 (L Frame) and the cylinder and top strap didnt let go.

I have shot lots of 38 Special ammo out of a 357 Maximum TC Contender. I just scrubbed the chamber before sticking 357 Max ammo in there.
The brass may have the same dimensions but does it have the same strength? Will it continue to have the same dimensions as magnum brass or will that change? You might get away with it you might not but for $20 per hundred you want to take the chance? Seems dumb to me!
 
For Cowboy action shooting this topic is normal as loads are low power.

38 cases are loaded with !ead past the crimp groove to acheive the correct length for lever actionss to function. Most are very oal sensitive. 1.600" is the ticket.
This is what I was looking for. Thanks.
 
As for powder, TightGroup, Trail Boss and Unique are a few. Lyman has a reloading manual for cast bullets that covers safe loads for Cowboy shooting.
 
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As for powder, TightGroup, Trail Boss and Unique are a few. Lyman has a reloading manual for cast bullets that covers safe loads for Cowboy shooting.
I have that manual and its the first one i ever purchased. I did take the time to read it from front cover to load data and it has a ton of great information. I did get a little bogged down in the lead chemistry section but pushed through. I planned on shooting cast bullets and grabbed a 180 rcbs mold and my second is going to be the Lyman 358156. Those two should get me started and handle most needs that i can see. The only other thing i can imagine wanting is a mold that does not use a gas check.
 
Having never shot cast lead bullets, why wouldn’t one want to use a gas check?
If your shooting lower velocity it's just an added expense and effort. But for higher velocity loads they have benefits. Help keep leading down, and can help with accuracy at higher pressure by preventing gas cutting of the bullet base.
 
Personally I don't think that it's a very good idea and I really don't understand why you'd even bother, but hey, give it a try and post some pictures if something really cool happens - I like seeing people break their expensive stuff and suffer injury due to bad decisions.

Ditto: Been loading off and on over 50 years. Purchase some 357 Brass...... Then buy yourself a Colt Python.
 

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