Thanks for the responses. Hope to look further into this when I get home from work, which keeps interfering with my reloading time.
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Or grind the bottom of the one you have. My only worry with that was always staying square
I can screw the die in as far as I want. The shell plate is the limiting factor. Once it hits the bottom of the die, that's as far as it will go. The progressive plate is one thickness. To my knowledge, no other plate thicknesses are available.Can you screw it in further and still make a full stroke? I used to load my ammo single stage on a Hornady AP like this. Eventually I got the shoulders to move.. by screwing the die in much farther than I thought possible. I also put a dummy die in one of the locations opposite where I was sizing, and ensured it was touching the shellplate. This provided some equal pressure on the shell plate and prevented some torqueing.
If none of this still works.. trim the die shorter as Dusty says.
I can screw the die in as far as I want. The shell plate is the limiting factor. Once it hits the bottom of the die, that's as far as it will go. The progressive plate is one thickness. To my knowledge, no other plate thicknesses are available.
This plus your full length die needs to be appropriately suited so that the cartridge body is only pushed back .001 or so on diameter. For factory chambers an off the shelf die will overwork the body too. This usually requires a custom or semi-custom (Harrell’s) FL die.I dont think many of them are using the expander button. Also i think they are setting the die to just bump the shoulder back a thou or so . That keeps everything consistent between firings and never the chance of a round being tight to close the bolt on.
Absolutely true”Same old same.old
is the fired brass you are trying to bump the.shoulder on fully fireformed? if not then you may be jumping the gun setting up your sizing die for a shoulder bump.
Will a piece of your fired brass chamber without resistance? If so it isn't fully fireformed.
Absolutely true”
I also have a standard Wilson case gage for each caliber I’m working with ,( a datum based tool that’s been around since the beginning)
Keeps life simple
J
Not hard at all
I usually make what most people call a barrel widget. It's just about an inch of the barrel cutoff that I run the reamer in just enough to form most of the shoulder. You can then use it to measure the fired vs sized case length with a set of calipers or a big enough mic. Very simple and a handy tool to have.Order an extra couple inch barrel and your GS will hook ya up.
Ask Mike Ezell about the process ^^^^