JMayo
Silver $$ Contributor
Jewell Trigger Problem, Won't Cock
- Thread starter Killick
- Start date
I usually lube the rear contact area of the locking lugs after cleaning, but never the bolt body itself. Is there a reason that I should be doing that?
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
People lube the bolt body just to make the bolt run smoother and faster
The one with Nina Hartley and Christy Canyon.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Wheres linda lovelace’s forum?
Just search for 'deep throat' erosion
.butchlambert
Site $$ Sponsor
I had a problem like that many years ago. I took it apart and lapped the inside of the side plates and it is still working great. Trigger came on a used rifle and the inside of the plates were very slightly scoured.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
OP if you want you can send that trigger to me and ill fix it up for you if you cover the shipping
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Just to let everybody see the issues with this trigger i snapped some pics. Every piece inside was rubbing hard on the side plates which were warped fiercely. It was dragging so hard and so dirty the return spring couldnt reset the trigger which is where the problems became apparent to mr killick to start with. 
59-61grams over 25 pulls
59-61grams over 25 pulls
butchlambert
Site $$ Sponsor
That is true JMayo. My Jewell trigger problem mentioned above was the same problem. It was something I should have checked when I purchased the rifle.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
The plates are warped from the press that stamps them. Some have more clearance than others.
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
Intelligent people can vary quite a lot in their mechanical abilities. I have met more than one person who should never mess with a trigger, and I have lot count of the times that someone told me how proud he was of his trigger work or adjustment, explaining that you had to be careful how you handled the rifle so that it would not go off when you closed the bolt. On the other hand, with a picture of the assembled trigger with the side plate off, I have worked on both Jewel and Bix n Andy triggers with no problems. My trick is to work on a white towel to keep parts from rolling or bouncing, have really good light, and work well away from the edge of my desk's top. My Jewel's side plates are warped to the point that it would have been impractical to completely flatten them, so I flattened and polished the high spots, which is where I saw the rub marks, and lightly deburred the edges and corners that contact the side plates, leaving the engagement surfaces alone. Doing all that, improved its feel and consistency. With no distractions it was pretty easy. Mine was not very dirty. My bore guides keep solvent out of my triggers and I generally shoot off of benches. All of my triggers have to pass a rigorous bolt slamming, butt thumping, and comb slapping test before I will use them. Guys that talk about how little sear engagement they use make me nervous.
Haha, I had an instructor in gun school call those parts "Air Soluble" . 30 years later I still use that term.
I was dinking around at the range one day and the little ball bearing under the extractor in my Rem 783 bolt went bouncy on the concrete. No way I was ever going to find it. Was able to buy 5 at a local machine shop supply house for 62 cents. One bounced around on my basement floor and I found it a week later on the edge of the sump pump hole 6 feet away. Those little things are 1/8 inch in size if you ever need to replace one. $2 plus shipping from Remington.
The trick is to put the bolt face up in a vise, put the ball over the spring and use a small flat blade screwdriver to push it down and slide the extractor over it. Piece a cake when you know how.
Last edited:
Your trigger might be bone dry, flush it out with lighter fluid. The other issue Jewells have when dry is locking the bolt up either in or out of battery. Common issue with them when used in the field. You can flush it out with water before of after it goes threw you, your choice depends on the venue.
Lighter fluid when dry will leave a residue that is also a lubricant, that will not attract dirt like oil's will.
Lighter fluid when dry will leave a residue that is also a lubricant, that will not attract dirt like oil's will.
Sounds like one could dissolve a smidgen of naphthalene aka moth ball component in the lighter fluid for lubrication.
mikeeg02
Michael Glantz
This last statement cant be stressed enough. If you cant tap on your action with a small deadblow or rubber mallet, or cant bang your stock around without your trigger going off, you dont have it set right because its not safe. I go through the same process. Bolt slamming and all after I've set it where I feel it should be. If theres anything that sets it off before I touch the trigger, it gets re-adjusted.
Last spring one of my jewels had moved at some point after the end of the season and slam fired once in the middle of a record in a match. I hadn't adjusted it since the year prior. Now I've made it a habit of checking them every spring before the season starts. An "annual adjustment" per say.
Wow, 61 g, that is equivalent to 2.15 oz. I didn't know triggers could go that low in settings.
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.