Action Vise or Action Wrench

[Curmudgeon]

An action wrench fits inside an action and an action vise fits around the action. Is it only a matter of preference or is one superior to the other? Thanks

 

[Texas10]

The action vise requires removal of the scope and mounting hardware. The action wrench does not and is preferable for switch barrel configurations.

 

[Uthink Uknow]

Rear entry action wrench and barrel vice is the only way to go on a bolt action rifle.

 

[Sniper338]

Rear entry action wrench and barrel vice is the only way to go on a bolt action rifle.

X2

 

[joshb]

Well, it depends on what you plan to do. I use a rear entry for all my custom barrel changes. I don’t torque them on too tight, maybe 30-40 pounds. I remove some factory barrels from my actions with an outside vise type action, if they’re tough. On some Tikkas, I’ve had to use both an outside wrench, rear entry and two barrel vises.

 

[varget204]

Recommend outside for 1 reason some barreled actions take 2 gorillas and a 900 pound mother- to loosen,Don't like puting all that Torque on the action

 

[F Class John]

X2

X3

I use a switch barrel system on my Defiance and pop them in and out faster than you can say Bobs your uncle.

 

[Uthink Uknow]

Not aiming at Varget personally but if the barrel is on that tight, why are you considering taking it off now? To replace it? A relief cut with a parting tool immediately ahead of the face of the action will relieve much of the pressure. Then the barrel comes off for replacing easily. When properly used, the action wrench is partially in contact with the breech of the barrel and there is no torquing of the action.

 

[DirtySteve]

Not aiming at Varget personally but if the barrel is on that tight, why are you considering taking it off now? To replace it? A relief cut with a parting tool immediately ahead of the face of the action will relieve much of the pressure. Then the barrel comes off for replacing easily. When properly used, the action wrench is partially in contact with the breech of the barrel and there is no torquing of the action.

He maybe referring to factory actions.

 

[Texas10]

Recommend outside for 1 reason some barreled actions take 2 gorillas and a 900 pound mother- to loosen,Don't like puting all that Torque on the action

Yep, I had a new Savage I took apart. I had to use a two foot breaker bar, (3/4" drive) and action vice from NSS clamped into my bench vice. Took everything I had plus my son smacking the bar with a dead blow hammer to loosen the nut.

 

[carlsbad]

The rear entry wrench is always easier. It is what I use for all of the barrels I install. my barrels all have good threads and lots of lubrication so that all the torque you put into the wrench goes into seating the barrel and 70 to 100 fl-lbs is more than enough.

I use the external wrench when I don't have an internal wrench for the action or if the barrel is excessively tight to remove. Note that most internal wrenches specify a maximum torque in the range of 100 ft lbs...also realize the internal wrenches are seated on your lugs in your boltway so you don't want to apply enough torque to start marring the surface.

The most notoriously hard barrel to remove is the glued on Remington factory barrel. The simple way to make this work is to have a barrel vise that captures the recoil lug (for removal only). I currently have a vise on the way to me from a forum member to do this modification.

--Jerry

 

[joshb]

Not aiming at Varget personally but if the barrel is on that tight, why are you considering taking it off now? To replace it? A relief cut with a parting tool immediately ahead of the face of the action will relieve much of the pressure. Then the barrel comes off for replacing easily. When properly used, the action wrench is partially in contact with the breech of the barrel and there is no torquing of the action.

The parting cut would have to be done by my gunsmith and he charges for that!

 

[Iowa Fox]

The rear entry wrench is always easier. It is what I use for all of the barrels I install. my barrels all have good threads and lots of lubrication so that all the torque you put into the wrench goes into seating the barrel and 70 to 100 fl-lbs is more than enough.

I use the external wrench when I don't have an internal wrench for the action or if the barrel is excessively tight to remove. Note that most internal wrenches specify a maximum torque in the range of 100 ft lbs...also realize the internal wrenches are seated on your lugs in your boltway so you don't want to apply enough torque to start marring the surface.

The most notoriously hard barrel to remove is the glued on Remington factory barrel. The simple way to make this work is to have a barrel vise that captures the recoil lug (for removal only). I currently have a vise on the way to me from a forum member to do this modification.

--Jerry

Jerry any chance we can get a picture after you perform the modification? Thanks

 

[BoydAllen]

Generally, internal action wrenches are all that is needed to remove a custom barrel, but for various reasons an action vise as you call it is the best way to remove a difficult factory installed barrel.

 

[shortgrass]

There is no "one size fits all", when it comes to gunsmithing tools.

 

[Uthink Uknow]

There is no "one size fits all", when it comes to gunsmithing tools.

Man, Ain’t that the truth. I just checked inventory and we have 24 different sizes of action wrenches in stock and that’s without the Remington clone wrenches which we’ll be building more of soon. Our wrenches are hard and tough and able to break loose just about any action and barrel. I also have 2 Remington clone wrenches in stainless steel which are good for benchrest rifles but don’t have what it takes to remove factory never loosened barrels. We build them with a tee handle, and 1/2 inch square recess or hex head for torque wrench or ratchet and breaker bar.

 

[varget204]

Not aiming at Varget personally but if the barrel is on that tight, why are you considering taking it off now? To replace it? A relief cut with a parting tool immediately ahead of the face of the action will relieve much of the pressure. Then the barrel comes off for replacing easily. When properly used, the action wrench is partially in contact with the breech of the barrel and there is no torquing of the action.

Should have stated for Savage Actions,Don't have Parting tools, cut off tools.Savage actions are Glued On and some of them around 80-90 Foot Pounds of Torgue or more,Do NOT know Any One who makes an Inside Action Wrench for a Savage,What Texas 10 said is the NORM for Savages.

 

[Curmudgeon]

Not sure what Varget 204 means, my Remington action wrench works with a Savage barrel nut wrench to switch barrels on my Savage.