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Love the new Wood Crusher I bought.

Welll, its actually a Wheeler Barrel Vise. Wow does Remington put some barrels on tight. Used my action wrench (NSS) only for my Savage I did and both the action wrench and vise when I put a new barrel on my buds 6.5x47L which was easy to get off.

Sadly, when I went to remove the action from the Rem 700 .243 I snagged super cheap as a donor action I didnt know it had the barrel super dee duper loctited on.
They darn near must have used a whole tube of loctite. LOL
I had to tighten the vise so much so the barrel wouldnt spin it actually compressed the oak blocks to a decent extent. Well at least the barrel pass through hole anyhow.
Finally got the darn thing off but, gee wiz was it on there. Talk about tightness overkill.
Hats off to the Wheeler vise its a strong strong well built vise and same with the NSS action wrench.

Whos the cheapest price on truing up the action that does a good job? Im in the Buckeye state.

Now to decide 6.5x47 or 6x47 hmmmm
 
I agree, many makers put the barrel on tight.....way too tight. I have never seen one fall off or come loose yet. Personally, I put mine in a lathe and turn the barrel shoulder away until it releases and comes off by hand. No factory barrel is worth over torquing the action to try and save. Save it for what????, they just are not that well made to worry about over the value of the action. Unless of course you are going to dispose of the action and for some reason keep the barrel. I cant imagine that. Glad to here there is a vise that will do it though.
 
Part of the problem with tight barrels is that factories and we, sometimes, blue the firearm after the barrel is torqued on. Bluing salts get in via the scope mount holes and complicate matters. It's one of life's little miseries.

Joe
 
There was an era of Remington's that had a lot of sealer on the barrels to keep the bluing salts out. Some are stuck pretty good aneed a little heat makes life easier with those.
 
There was an era of Remington's that had a lot of sealer on the barrels to keep the bluing salts out. Some are stuck pretty good aneed a little heat makes life easier with those.

Yes sir, I have noticed that too...I don't know what the stuff is, but what I have seen looked a lot like some type of pipe putty. It was thick and kind of an off white looking color. If you heated it the stuff got dry and grayish in color. I never did like to put heat on a receiver, but I realize that not everyone has a lathe either.
By far the worst I have ever seen was some of the old WWII era Mauser's...I seen one old gunsmith in Pa. use a special receiver casting that fit around the whole thing. It was in two halves and bolted together. The outside was made like a hex nut and he used a big pipe wrench with an 8 foot bar attached to it. The thing gave a mean groan when I saw him use it, but she finally gave it up and came loose. It looked like something that would have to do damage, but the rifle he barreled for me shot good.
 
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The 2 worse I've ever had was a 1917 and a Ruger #1. Nightmares! You'd think barrels came loose all the time by the way some manufacturers put them on. Heck I've never had one come loose and I dont don't use much torque.
 
The 2 worse I've ever had was a 1917 and a Ruger #1. Nightmares! You'd think barrels came loose all the time by the way some manufacturers put them on. Heck I've never had one come loose and I don't use much torque.

Yes sir, I have had a few 1903's I had to turn on the lathe to get them off too. I am just not going to apply galactic torque to a barrel or receiver...there is no way it could possibly do it any good.
What I cant wrap my head around is the way so many barrels are put on so tight and these guys are crying about using a parting tool to cut a barrel causing damage????? If that hurts a barrel just imagine what the factory does to them when they boar hog down on them!!!! It's a wonder the barrel and receiver threads don't gall from all the pressure. It's as if somebody is trying to get gain twist after the fact!!!!
I do not put mine no where near that tight, in fact I snug them down a little at best and use Loc-Tite to avoid distortion.
 
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There was an era of Remington's that had a lot of sealer on the barrels to keep the bluing salts out. Some are stuck pretty good aneed a little heat makes life easier with those.
This ^^^^^ . A little heat to the action with a propane torch and it will spin right off, at least that's been my experience with several factory barrels. Rem and Win, very moderate heat.
 
I use one of those hot air guns and let it heat it up till I see the white powder in the scope base screw holes and it makes it a lot easier.
Tarey
 
I came across this thread so i thought i would offer a trick i have used for other tight fit parts, i have never used it on a rifle, but it may be helpfull. In order to avoid over heating parts with a torch i have heated them in oil on a stove or hotplate and monitor the temp with a thermometer in the oil. Fyi About 265 f is where most threadlockers get soft. If you kept the barrel out of the oil it would always be slightly cooler than the action. Im not in opposition to turning the shoulder off in a lathe like was mentioned above but i do not have a lathe, maybee someday...
 
You haven't really lived until you try and take a P-14 or M1917 barrel off. Square threads...
Try a Mosin Nagant sometime. I can cuss a blue streak in English, Spanish, French and Portuguese and I was repeating myself before I was done. Lesson learned - parting tool from now on.

And, yes, the '14s and '17s are quite stubborn!
 

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