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Experienced advice in Cerakote vs DuraCoat barreled action finishes

i was wondering if anyone has experience with DuraCoat vs Cerakote. This is for a 300 WM rebarrel, true action, & new stock. Stock comes Camo from McMillian. I’m familiar with Cerakote, but not DuraCoat. Thanks for any advice. I’m being advised DPC. Talking to my smith, just would like to hear from others as it seems Cerakote game is the standard now
 
DuraCoat gets a bad rap due to being marketed as a diy product. Like any paint type finish, it's only as good as the prep work. Proper prep is THE key to duracoat. Sandblast and parkerize the metal first, then completely degrease before applying. I've done IPSC/IDPA/USPSA guns that literally get tossed across concrete with zero damage to the duracoat. But...I've tried to cut corners and it was junk.
 
I can attest to prep being critical with Duracoat. I have multiple examples that I've applied at home that echo what gunsandgunsmithing talk about. If you don't blast the metal prior to the application, it's on par with a low quality spray paint. Assuming you do give it a surface to adhere to, it will hold.

That said, if all prep-work is quality and equal, I think Cerakote is a significantly better finish.
 
DuraCoat gets a bad rap due to being marketed as a diy product. Like any paint type finish, it's only as good as the prep work. Proper prep is THE key to duracoat. Sandblast and parkerize the metal first, then completely degrease before applying. I've done IPSC/IDPA/USPSA guns that literally get tossed across concrete with zero damage to the duracoat. But...I've tried to cut corners and it was junk.
Thanks, makes complete sense.
 
I can attest to prep being critical with Duracoat. I have multiple examples that I've applied at home that echo what gunsandgunsmithing talk about. If you don't blast the metal prior to the application, it's on par with a low quality spray paint. Assuming you do give it a surface to adhere to, it will hold.

That said, if all prep-work is quality and equal, I think Cerakote is a significantly better finish.
Parkerizing is very much like primer and adhesion promoter to a car. It makes the metal almost like a sponge. SS won't technically park but 416 does darken when parked. Still, I've seen it firsthand just how much better it holds on Parked steel vs parked ss. It's far better on parked cm. The stuff is pretty amazing really. Overall, I won't disagree hat Cerakote is best. If only dealing with parked cm steel....I'm really not sure.
 
I can attest to prep being critical with Duracoat. I have multiple examples that I've applied at home that echo what gunsandgunsmithing talk about. If you don't blast the metal prior to the application, it's on par with a low quality spray paint. Assuming you do give it a surface to adhere to, it will hold.

That said, if all prep-work is quality and equal, I think Cerakote is a significantly better finish.
Thank you. I don’t know much at all about the processes. It seems there should be a reason Cerakote is used so much.
 
Parkerizing is very much like primer and adhesion promoter to a car. It makes the metal almost like a sponge. SS won't technically park but 416 does darken when parked. Still, I've seen it firsthand just how much better it holds on Parked steel. The stuff is pretty amazing really. Overall, I won't disagree hat Cerakote is best. If only dealing with parked cm steel....I'm really not sure.
This is going on a new Bartlein stainless. The action is Cerakote already. Rifle started life as a Rem 700 tactical 5r Cerakote
 
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In my experience, Cerakote is far more durable than Duracoat. The latter does not seem to hold up very well to bore solvents at the muzzle. Cerakote seems to be far more chemical and abrasion resistant. As far as application standards, I pride myself on following directions (somewhere between anal and OCD ).
 
Ive has very good luck with Duracoat. As other have said prep is the key.

The only solvent I’ve had an issue with on Duracoat is Wipeout. It took a little bit of finish off one barrel I did right at the muzzle. Only in one little spot which leads me to believe I didn’t get that spot degreased either.

If your using the Duracoat spray cans, the biggest key I’ve found is honor the cure times. 24 hours you can assemble things back together but before you start really using the gun hard let it setup for a few days.

Ifbused right it’s tough stuff.
 
Ive has very good luck with Duracoat. As other have said prep is the key.

The only solvent I’ve had an issue with on Duracoat is Wipeout. It took a little bit of finish off one barrel I did right at the muzzle. Only in one little spot which leads me to believe I didn’t get that spot degreased either.

If your using the Duracoat spray cans, the biggest key I’ve found is honor the cure times. 24 hours you can assemble things back together but before you start really using the gun hard let it setup for a few days.

Ifbused right it’s tough stuff.
Thank you for the advice!
 
I can't speak on Duracoat as I've never used it. I can tell you that Cerakote protected two of my rifles in a fire last summer. Though the fire wasn't on the same side of the garage as the safe, in fact is was on the corner catty-corner (or kitty-corner depending on the part of the country you're in) from the safe. The smoke was very heavy in the garage until they got the garage door ripped off. Every gun but the two with cerakote were covered in rust due to the steam getting into the safe (it's a 48 gun Winchester fire rated safe). Though the rust was light, it still pitted a couple of rifles and one handgun. The two with cerakote were simply wiped off and put up. Only part of the two that showed any rust were the bolts - since they weren't coated.
 
I can't speak on Duracoat as I've never used it. I can tell you that Cerakote protected two of my rifles in a fire last summer. Though the fire wasn't on the same side of the garage as the safe, in fact is was on the corner catty-corner (or kitty-corner depending on the part of the country you're in) from the safe. The smoke was very heavy in the garage until they got the garage door ripped off. Every gun but the two with cerakote were covered in rust due to the steam getting into the safe (it's a 48 gun Winchester fire rated safe). Though the rust was light, it still pitted a couple of rifles and one handgun. The two with cerakote were simply wiped off and put up. Only part of the two that showed any rust were the bolts - since they weren't coated.

Thanks Bear. I’m convinced the Cerakote is better and was surprised abwhen the invoice stated DuraCoat. It’s Dixie Precision Rifles. Hopefully they will let me cancel the coating and I can get it done elsewhere. It’s a trueing and rebarrel job. The present gun is cerakoted and the barrel will be a Bartlein SS so no rust worries right away.
 
I had two hunting rifles coated within about six months of each other. One duracoat and one cerakote, both rifles have four seasons on them. The duracoat is showing some wear at the muzzle and bolt handle. The cerakote is still as new. They both were "professionally" done but I imagine some of the wear on the duracoat could still be from improper prep.
 
I’ve had mixed results with duracoat. Had a 870 barrel that started flaking off after about a year. I know prep is very important but I soaked in acetone, blasted it, and flashed it off just as I do with cerakote. That said I Duracoated my Kahr that a carry a fair amount about 5 years ago and it still looks great. As of lately I prefer Cerakote and haven’t had any issues with it.
 
Duracoat is a sherwin Williams product.
There name for it is polene T used on file cabinets,office furniture things like that.
I’ve been a professional Cerakote applicator for over 5 years.
I’ve been asked to do some duracoat a few times over the years but have turned it down as the product clogs my spray guns and takes to long to cure.
I’ve been shooting a lot of Cerakote’s new product called Cerakote Elite.
It goes on thinner which leaves a much nicer finish and is more durable in my opinion than there standard oven bake Cerakote.
The one good thing about duracoat is it can be touched up whereas Cerakote is difficult to do.
 
I had two hunting rifles coated within about six months of each other. One duracoat and one cerakote, both rifles have four seasons on them. The duracoat is showing some wear at the muzzle and bolt handle. The cerakote is still as new. They both were "professionally" done but I imagine some of the wear on the duracoat could still be from improper prep.

There's a reason the best smiths are doing Cerakote. Appr
Duracoat is a sherwin Williams product.
There name for it is polene T used on file cabinets,office furniture things like that.
I’ve been a professional Cerakote applicator for over 5 years.
I’ve been asked to do some duracoat a few times over the years but have turned it down as the product clogs my spray guns and takes to long to cure.
I’ve been shooting a lot of Cerakote’s new product called Cerakote Elite.
It goes on thinner which leaves a much nicer finish and is more durable in my opinion than there standard oven bake Cerakote.
The one good thing about duracoat is it can be touched up whereas Cerakote is difficult to do.

Thanks for your reply Hino. That pretty specific information! The rifle being rebuilt is cerakote and a SS bartlein is going on it so I should have plenty of time to send it to you or Accuracy Ordnance if one of you want to do it.
 
Durakoat is baked on spray paint. I have it in every single color. I can apply it correctly and im convinced rust oleum from walmart may be just as tough- especially if you get the heat curing stuff like engine or brake caliper stuff. It doesnt ruin your spray equipment either.
 
Durakoat is baked on spray paint. I have it in every single color. I can apply it correctly and im convinced rust oleum from walmart may be just as tough- especially if you get the heat curing stuff like engine or brake caliper stuff. It doesnt ruin your spray equipment either.

Dusty, I owe everyone who has contributed to help me on this thread an apology. I misread the acronym used on invoice to stand for DuraCoat. It is actually KG gun coat. I don’t know anything about KG gun coat. My gunsmith let me know about an hour ago. He has also offered to use Cerakote if I prefer. I went to KG’s website, but didn’t get much out of the site. I’ll probably accept his offer to cerakote just due to familiarity and the floorplate and action are already cerakoted matt black which is the color I want.
Do you know anything about KG gun coat? Thank you much for trying to help. Please accept my apologies for misunderstanding the acronym.
 

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