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RPR 6mm Creedmoor freebore?

If it was mine i would throat it out. I truly do believe it should never leave the shop like that period. What is Ruger thinking or doing??
 
I just got a RPR in 6CM also and have been following this thread. I have not shot it yet. I have a question about the Tubb Final Finish Sysyem. Can that be done in lieu of a barrel break in or is it better to do the break in routine first? I plan on shooting 107SMK or 115 DTACs.
 
SMK107's are shorter base to ogive than hornady 108's but I still had issues before running the tubb rounds through mine. It moved the lands out but I still wasn't happy and was loading 107's at 2.65 COAL to be off the lands. I would load what you think you're going to want (or get a box of factory 108's) to check where your lands are first. If they're short, then go straight to the tubb rounds, I wouldn't waste any ammo before that.

Don't know about 115 DTACs specifically but assume you'd be pretty into the lands. If you're thinking 115 DTACS, why the SMK 107's and not the SMK 110s? the 110's and 115's are more comparable than the 107's.

There are enough of these guns out there that I have to assume some guys are getting a freebore that isn't crazy short, as if this was a bad production run or something on the barrels. Check yours before you do anything else...
 
dnellans said:
Don't know about 115 DTACs specifically but assume you'd be pretty into the lands. If you're thinking 115 DTACS, why the SMK 107's and not the SMK 110s? the 110's and 115's are more comparable than the 107's.
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I found this list http://www.jbmballistics.com/ballistics/lengths/lengths.shtml which show the length of the 107s and 115DTACs as being more compatible (according to the Berger twist rate calculator) than the 110 smk.

I do have a modified case on order.

any thoughts on Tubb final finish instead of barrel break in?
 
The Tubbs works good but I wouldn't run the whole kit unless you are really short as the first two sets of bullets are pretty aggressive in the grit used. Measure the length to lands to see if you have a problem first and then go from there.
 
old_dood said:
I found this list http://www.jbmballistics.com/ballistics/lengths/lengths.shtml which show the length of the 107s and 115DTACs as being more compatible (according to the Berger twist rate calculator) than the 110 smk.

I do have a modified case on order.

any thoughts on Tubb final finish instead of barrel break in?
Click to expand...

Overall bullet length (from jbm link) is only one part of the equation and not the most important part, what matters is the base to ogive (where the lands will touch) measurement which can vary substantially, even if two bullets have the same total length.
 
dnellans said:
Overall bullet length (from jbm link) is only one part of the equation and not the most important part, what matters is the base to ogive (where the lands will touch) measurement which can vary substantially, even if two bullets have the same total length.
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by length compatibility I meant with regard to stabilization. My RPR has a 7.7t. With the longer 110SMK, according to the Berger calculator, there would be a less than ideal stabilization compared to the 107s or DTACs.
 
old_dood said:
by length compatibility I meant with regard to stabilization. My RPR has a 7.7t. With the longer 110SMK, according to the Berger calculator, there would be a less than ideal stabilization compared to the 107s or DTACs.
Click to expand...

Right - but you may find that 107's will not be jammed into your lands but the 115 dtacs and 110 sierras are (even if you use the tubb kit).

Your reasoning above is why I was shooting the 107's from the factory barrel and not the 110's BTW.
 
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old_dood said:
I just got a RPR in 6CM also and have been following this thread. I have not shot it yet. I have a question about the Tubb Final Finish Sysyem. Can that be done in lieu of a barrel break in or is it better to do the break in routine first? I plan on shooting 107SMK or 115 DTACs.
Click to expand...
Don’t bother with a break-in, the kit is MUCH more aggressive and thorough than any normal break-in regimen could achieve. I used the complete kit, and it moved the leade out to a normal length. Now I can load 105 Hybrids out to a bit over mag length, and it I’ll be touching the lands.
 
fatelvis said:
I called Ruger and they offered up no headspace numbers, but they said they'd like the rifle back to take a look at it. I'm really hesitant to send it back, now that my F-class season started, but I would like to load the 105s and 108s out to where they should be, and not pushed back into the powder space in the case. Is it difficult to ream a throat by hand, without a lathe?
Click to expand...
 

No idea on doing it by hand, but you should have been asking for the expected freebore length, not the case headspace. that might have been throwing the tech for a loop based on your description.
 
Rob01 said:
It will lengthen throat out. Talked about in this thread.
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So I'm a noob but if I understand the Tubb system and what it does are some magic bullets supposed to fix a throat that's .156" too shallow? Maybe I'm missing something.
 
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Dgd6mm said:
^^^^
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I'll agree with part of this. My problem is
1. This was a new gun and I shouldn't have to pay for this.
2. That throat can't be correct to SAAMI specs being that far off.

I'm going to see what Ruger has to say and make a decision based on that. I'm sure they won't cover a dime if I dont send it back to them.
 
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