• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

powder scale gift for new reloader. Is $125 wasted?

The problem with electronic scales sometimes is the anti-drift software itself. The scale resists drifting by constantly returning the scale to zero unless the added weight is above a certain threshold. Often times 2 or 3 or 5 (depending on the scale) kernals of powder is below this threshold, so the scale doesn't register it. The scale thinks it is drifting. To re-check the charge, lift the pan up and set it down again.

That is why a scale can throw innaccurate charges and still register perfectly with the calibration weight.
 
I switched to digital a few years ago, using the basic RCBS scale. No problems with drift, very repeatable and precise. The accuracy of the scale is easily within .1 grain as determined from the calibration weights as well as weights of several match bullets. The only problem I have is having to throw twice from my measure to get enough powder into the pan. I throw a grain or so low and then trickle to the final weight so that I am always coming to the correct result from below. I use a Redding BR measure to throw charges into the pan, but it can't throw the 93 gr. or so that I need for .338 LM.

The digital works well for my .17CCM as well, because I am only using about 8.2 gr. for that. I throw 8 gr. and then trickle to the final amount.
I have the very same set up ,digital rcbs and Redding BR. I also have an O'haus to check the digital with which I seldom have to do as the RCBS seems to be spot on .
 
I have noticed more consistent results using two scales, charge first beam second
YRMV of course
 
Redding #2 scale beam scale made in America, always warmed up, no drift, repeatable same reading all the time, ready to go. Digitals drift never read the same unless you pay 500.00 and let them warm up hours/days. Been there.
 
Redding #2 scale beam scale made in America, always warmed up, no drift, repeatable same reading all the time, ready to go. Digitals drift never read the same unless you pay 500.00 and let them warm up hours/days. Been there.
None of the balance beam scales are what they used to be. For quality workmanship, no matter the brand, you have to buy vintage.

In my opinion, the floating agate bearing, magnetic dampening of the early Ohaus's is a superior system to the hardened steel inserts. JMHO.
 
None of the balance beam scales are what they used to be. For quality workmanship, no matter the brand, you have to buy vintage.

In my opinion, the floating agate bearing, magnetic dampening of the early Ohaus's is a superior system to the hardened steel inserts. JMHO.

I would hope Redding has not cut quality for profit but I haven't looked at the new ones in the last few years. I would think most savvy reloaders would pay more for a quality beam scale after paying for 2 or 3 digitals that didn't work out. You can't go wrong with vintage Ohaus beams they still work well, I have one myself I've bought on Ebay. I think my old Redding #2 has the hardened steel insert it's 30 years old and compared to any comparable priced digital it works great! Repeatable every reading to 1/2 of .1 grain all day long no warm up. Way better than digital crap offered now days for similar price. Been there and wasted my fair share of money on digital. HB
 
A good balance beam scale works best for me for over 35 years. I have tried a few of the electronic scales (cheap and expensive) and I always find they are very inconsistent. With either scale a set of check weights are invaluable. I have a RCBS weight set. I use different weight in the set to calibrate the beam scale before every reloading secession. I have found that just leveling the beam scale can change from reloading secession to the next. Speaking from experience, a consistently calibrated cheap beam scale is better than an inaccurate expensive electronic scale, when 1/10 th of a grain of powder variation can mean a over pressured cartridge in an 17 Tactical.
 
Yes, even the Redding No2 is not what it was 15 years ago. I know they look the same but when you look closer you will see the older scales had a very nicely engraved beam, several years ago they switch to a printed tape stuck on the beam. The old level adjuster used to be knurled, now it's just a bolt.
I made this video a while ago comparing three Redding No 2's
 
Yes, even the Redding No2 is not what it was 15 years ago. I know they look the same but when you look closer you will see the older scales had a very nicely engraved beam, several years ago they switch to a printed tape stuck on the beam. The old level adjuster used to be knurled, now it's just a bolt.
I made this video a while ago comparing three Redding No 2's

And that's a good thing it's not the same. I have both and the new one (mine is 30 years old with the printed tape stuck on the beam) is much better with the magnetic damping. The tape means nothing, it's accurate to a grain, doesn't come off, etc. The other older one with engraved beam is nice to look at but takes forever to settle down with a load of powder. The leveling bolt is just a leveling bolt, what's the deal. Of course I'm not selling something here.
 
And that's a good thing it's not the same. I have both and the new one (mine is 30 years old with the printed tape stuck on the beam) is much better with the magnetic damping. The tape means nothing, it's accurate to a grain, doesn't come off, etc. The other older one with engraved beam is nice to look at but takes forever to settle down with a load of powder. The leveling bolt is just a leveling bolt, what's the deal. Of course I'm not selling something here.

I think you're comparing apples and oranges there, all the Redding No 2's have magnetic damping. The earlier Redding scales had oil damping or none at all. For about twenty years the Redding No 2 had an engraved scale, first ones were brown with a silver metal engraved beam, but in the same shape body as the current No. 2. Then they changed to green with a black beam, nicely engraved with white markings. Then then changed to the applied tape.

I can't imagine someone at a production meeting at the time saying "How can we make this scale better" but I can certainly imagine someone saying "How can we make this scale cheaper"

I think reloading beam scales reached their peak with the Lyman M5 in the late '60's, early '70's. The only advance (or sidestep) since then, but introduced not long after, has been the rotary poise and the approach to weight system as used on the 5-10 and 10/10 scales. Since that date quality has eroded, so slowly that it's often gone unnoticed.

If you compare a Lyman M5 with todays orange scale with a plastic body it makes you weep.

Redding No 2, engraved scale

Redding No 2, applied tape

Early RCBS 5-10, metal knurled adjusting wheel and 10th grain markings.

Later RCBS 5-10, plastic level wheel, no 10th markings
 
I certainly won't be paying big bucks for a scale. Like Bart B if a scale is off by a few milligrams from a $10 K lab grade scale I could care less. I now have two old school beam scales, two electronics neither of which cost me more than $225 and a RCBS powder dispenser scale setting on, around, and under my bench. I can get plus or minus a couple of milligrams precision on all my charges and get single digit SD ammo.

Anything more precise would just get caught in the noise of wind and shooting technique for me.
 
There are probably some on here who will disagree, but for the stated use the Lee Safety Scale would be a good choice. Add a rare earth magnet on one side to make the damper work better/faster. You will be surprised how sensitive and repeatable it is.

Any pictures of how you might have rigged up one like this?
 
I think you're comparing apples and oranges there, all the Redding No 2's have magnetic damping. The earlier Redding scales had oil damping or none at all. For about twenty years the Redding No 2 had an engraved scale, first ones were brown with a silver metal engraved beam, but in the same shape body as the current No. 2. Then they changed to green with a black beam, nicely engraved with white markings. Then then changed to the applied tape.

I can't imagine someone at a production meeting at the time saying "How can we make this scale better" but I can certainly imagine someone saying "How can we make this scale cheaper"

I think reloading beam scales reached their peak with the Lyman M5 in the late '60's, early '70's. The only advance (or sidestep) since then, but introduced not long after, has been the rotary poise and the approach to weight system as used on the 5-10 and 10/10 scales. Since that date quality has eroded, so slowly that it's often gone unnoticed.

If you compare a Lyman M5 with todays orange scale with a plastic body it makes you weep.

Redding No 2, engraved scale

Redding No 2, applied tape

Early RCBS 5-10, metal knurled adjusting wheel and 10th grain markings.

Later RCBS 5-10, plastic level wheel, no 10th markings
1066
I have a Lyman 1000 scale that I bought around 1981. It has the heavy cast base, it has nylon type v’s that it pivots on and with magnetic damper. It’s been very reliable. Just wanted to see what you knew about it.
 
1066
I have a Lyman 1000 scale that I bought around 1981. It has the heavy cast base, it has nylon type v’s that it pivots on and with magnetic damper. It’s been very reliable. Just wanted to see what you knew about it.
Those aren't nylon pivot bearings, they are agate. American made by Ohaus. The bearings should wiggle just a bit, they were made to "float". It's one of the good ones we have been talking about.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This is a good forum to learn about a lot of stuff, didn't know my Redding 2 had a green Redding 2 predecessor with engraved beam. I have a brown one with engraved beam, no damping, it must be old old. That engraved Green one does look nice. My stickey on tape one does work to a half grain and that's good as I need for my reloading. It's always ready and warmed up, unlike my electronic ones i have to keep Tare ing , calibrating all the time. Thanks for the history 1066. HB
 
Just find an older one made in the early 80's or earlier.I have a Dillon that is 28 years old and for the most part it works fine for average reloading however I have an earlier 5-10 that Scott Parker did for me and it is right on the money.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,322
Messages
2,193,166
Members
78,819
Latest member
DJT
Back
Top