I agree Bugs!
Talk with the maker, as they likely have a fair amount of experience with their product but, in a nutshell, just move it a mark at a time. It'll quickly show the distance from completely in tune to completely out of tune. Once you know this, focus on group size and shape at the different marks, again, one at a time within that range of movement. What you're after here is correlating group size and shape to tuner setting, so that you can look at a target and know how far to move it to bring it back in when it goes out. With my tuner, that range is only about 4 marks typically and
I've never had to move my tuner more than two marks due to condition changes. BTW, that was a 45° temp swing from start to finish of the match.
Once you get this much down, you've got it whipped. Move it in if temps have gone up and out if they've gone down.
From there, the natural progression for many is to wonder if one tuner sweet spot is better or wider than the last. Theoretically yes and I've seen it many times. That said, I find that one spot will shoot just as small as the next but that there may be a beneficial difference in how long it stays in tune at one than the other. So, just test different ones by going to the next sweet spot. The distance to the next one will be approximately twice as far as from in to out. IOW, in to out is a half node. In, out and back in is a full node or cycle. The tune just repeats itself up and down the tuners travel. Remember, you're moving the weight out so it won't be 100% linear, but close to it IME. So, if there are 4 marks from in tune to completely out(shooting BIG), it's about 8 marks from one sweet spot to the next sweet spot...give or take a mark roughly. See which is best.
I THINK this is what Bart was alluding to. He gave the example of changing powder charges at a given tuner setting and it stayed in tune across those charges. IME, that's what will happen when you're on one of those wide nodes. Also, they seem to correlate with poi, IME. See the link I posted a few pages back. If you can fire and see your sighters in your discipline, this is of less value than otherwise but still worth doing, regardless, IMO.
There are other methods that I've applied such as a tuning method called the Purdy Prescription, which several rimfire shooters believe helps. It's based on the length of the column of air in a tube(your barrel). My rimfire tuners come with a tube meant to be cut to the prescribed length calculated by this method. The centerfire version can usually be moved enough to reach it without the tube. I'll be right up front about it...I've tested it quite a bit on both rf and cf and I feel like I can tune just as well without it...but there are others who feel it's very good. Google it and read up on the theory if you're interested. Here's but one link. There are several but this should get you started in your search. At this point, I much prefer to keep things as simple as possible. Not that I know everything but that tuning methods being all over the place is why I think there has been so much confusion about using tuners. I suggest my aforementioned method and let nature take its course toward testing other methods that may or may not pan out for you. --Mike Ezell
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=544427