Another stumper.

[4xforfun]

A friend of mine has an issue with his factory Rem 700 in 300 Win Mag. The gun shot great with both factory and hand loads. No issues, no problems, no PSI signs....just an all around good gun. He decided to have a Brake installed. Now, big PSI signs. The bolt opens ok, but you can hardly pull the bolt back. Reloads, factory rounds, new brass, fired brass, light loads, heavy loads...all create an issue when pulling the bolt back. I had him fire some factory rounds with and without the break installed....same thing. I was thinking it was a sticky ejector (plunger), but, wouldn't that cause a problem with unfired brass , too? I haven't had a chance to check the ejector, yet.

Anyway, i can't figure it out, and his smith says everything checks out OK.

Any ideas????


Thanks,
Tod

 

[ShootDots]

He may have developed a huge "carbon ring" which will drive up pressures considerably! If everything else is good, I don't know what else it could be..

 

[Mulligan]

Could the headspace have been reset to different length when the barrel was re-enstalled after threading????
CW

 

[Milo 2.0]

If new brass is not coming out right, you should be able to feel it going in too.
If shootdots is right, sharpie'ing a couple case mouths on new brass should reveal an obstruction.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Im not the smartest guy around but i can put 2&2 together. Im suspecting the brake installation has something to do with it. The barrel was damaged in some way.

 

[4xforfun]

His smith has it now...Don't know if he has a bore scope, but the carbon ring thing could do it!!

As far as headspace...looks like NEW brass is running 6 - 8 thou off of the belt and I think he just necked the fired brass for this test...so should be a near crush fit off of the shoulder. Headspace was my initial thought, too, but have ruled it out.

Dusty...I am with you, but, for the life of me I can't figure what part of the process would cause the problem. A "burr" would be gone after 1 shot. Is it possible that he "squished" the tube when it was chucked it the lathe? You would need to slug or air gauge to find that out, right?

This one has me stumped!!

Tod

 

[Mulligan]

His smith has it now...Don't know if he has a bore scope, but the carbon ring thing could do it!!

As far as headspace...looks like NEW brass is running 6 - 8 thou off of the belt and I think he just necked the fired brass for this test...so should be a near crush fit off of the shoulder. Headspace was my initial thought, too, but have ruled it out.

Dusty...I am with you, but, for the life of me I can't figure what part of the process would cause the problem. A "burr" would be gone after 1 shot. Is it possible that he "squished" the tube when it was chucked it the lathe? You would need to slug or air gauge to find that out, right?

This one has me stumped!!

Tod

Todd if the headspace was moved it moves the location of all things in the bore. Relationship of the chambered round with rifling, carbon ring if present. A factory chamber that was a bit long and is shortened effects all sort of stuff.
Just pondering
CW

 

[Willie]

Just a thought, are there any scratches on bolt, that could indicate a scope base screw touching the bolt?

 

[DT]

Check to see if front guard screw is making contact with the bolt. Maybe run in too far (crush fit) when reassembling rifle after brake was added.

 

[DT]

Why would the scope need to be removed to take the BBL off? I change BBLs more often than most people poop, and I have NEVER taken a scope off. Unless, it was a bitch to get off , as some factory rems are when removing them for the first time.

GOOD STUFF
Thanks,

Tod

Tod -- Talking about front guard screw on stock if the barreled action was removed from stock for the brake installation it's conceivable that overtightening could have brought bolt or bolt lug into contact.

 

[dkhunt14]

Why would the scope need to be removed to take the BBL off? I change BBLs more often than most people poop, and I have NEVER taken a scope off. Unless, it was a bitch to get off , as some factory rems are when removing them for the first time.



GOOD STUFF
Thanks,

Tod

What does the scope have to do with front trigger guard screw? Also if he took the scope base off to remove barrel, maybe one screw is too long and not put back in the same place. Matt

 

[4xforfun]

Just a thought, are there any scratches on bolt, that could indicate a scope base screw touching the bolt?

Will check it out, but , why would you need to remove the scope when removing the BBL. I change BBLS more often than most people poop, and I have NEVER taken a scope off.

But, will dd to the list.

Thanks.

 

[4xforfun]

What does the scope have to do with front trigger guard screw? Also if he took the scope base off to remove barrel, maybe one srew is too long and not put back in the same place. Matt

Sorry...I had replied to the wrong post and have since deleated it.....Sorry Your thoughts are VERY plusable and will be checked out tomorrow.

Thanks

 

[RetiredArmy]

If bolt opens fine, could it be a primary extraction issue that is common with savages?
Just guessing here!
Thanks Bill

 

[4xforfun]

I had quoted the wrong post earlier..then deleated it... which has since been re posted and things are all messed up

So


As far as removing the scope.....I NEVER do but he might have, so will check it out.

As far as the action screws......could very well be, and will ALSO be checked out.

As far as the carbon ring, will check it out IF he has a scope...otherwise ...I will take it and give it a clean job.

Sorry for the confusion...keep it comming!!!

Tod

 

[4xforfun]

Also...I should clear something up...in the OP I said "big PSI signs". Now, I didn't take a REAL close look at the primers for PSI, and as stated, the initial opening of the bolt is fine....it is just at and after the cam at the point where you pull the bolt back that I considered "BIG PSI" Might not be a psi thing, but, it sure acts like it.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

His smith has it now...Don't know if he has a bore scope, but the carbon ring thing could do it!!

As far as headspace...looks like NEW brass is running 6 - 8 thou off of the belt and I think he just necked the fired brass for this test...so should be a near crush fit off of the shoulder. Headspace was my initial thought, too, but have ruled it out.

Dusty...I am with you, but, for the life of me I can't figure what part of the process would cause the problem. A "burr" would be gone after 1 shot. Is it possible that he "squished" the tube when it was chucked it the lathe? You would need to slug or air gauge to find that out, right?

This one has me stumped!!

Tod

A tight fitting patch may find it. Also inspect the crown real close with a magnifying glass and q tip. Yes you can really mess up a barrel in a lathe chuck or not getting enough clearance on the exit hole

 

[msinc]

This is out there, but I have seen it twice...do you know what kind of wrench the guy used to remove the barrel?? I have seen actions torqued {twisted} because the barrel was so tight and the "remover" simply applied pressure until it cut loose.....in so doing the entire action was twisted. Sometimes the smith doesn't even know he twisted the action and puts it back together that way...sometimes he knows, but puts it back together anyway because he don't want to fess up and pay for his mistake. We're not talking a lot of twist here...the bolt will go back in but feel funny.
I have had several 700's {among others} that were so tight the only way I was able to remove the barrel was to chuck it all in my lathe and do a relief cut on the barrel just in front of the action face. Ruins the barrel, but if it has to come off it's better than ruining the action.

Edit: this might be a little on the stupid side, but seeing a few twisted actions got me paranoid at one time...in regards to taking off the scope; I have never removed a barrel where I didn't remove the scope first. I put scope alignment tools in the rings and see where they are BEFORE I try the barrel if I am trying to save the barrel and it's a tight one. I try to watch them as I apply pressure. If they start to miss-align I know I will not be able to save the barrel. Long actions, obviously, will torque easier than a short one.

 

[Richard Coody]

reading this post surely makes.me.curious

my thoughts are
pressure signs? just a sticky bolt or brass signs like flattened primers.and ejector swipes?
i don't know how primary extraction could get messed up removing and replacing a barrel but i guess anything is possible.
don't see how headspace could change with a shouldered barrel. not a remage is it?
either scope screws binding the action. only with savage have i had that problem.
overtorquing the action screws. take it out of the stock and see how it cycles.
or the action was twisted removing the barrel.

 

[Ggmac]

Was the barrel removed for the threading operation ?
Did the smith use a lathe or a 'pipe threading tool '?
Is it the same bolt ? ( sounds like primary extraction ) switched bolts or damage to the bolt or receiver making extraction difficult .
If the pulling bac on the bolt is after the case is loose from chamber ,disregard the primary extraction thought
Damage to the chamber or bent receiver rail .
If the primer looks like high pressure , eliminate the damaged chamber and bent rail .
Coffee time .