Parallax shift

[Kramerica]

Did the rep say why that is? Not trying to pick a fight, just curious. dedogs

So the Rep doesn’t really know he passed the question on to an engineer and said he would get back to me next week

 

[Peebles24]

@Milo 2.0 i am understanding that paralax has absolutely nothing to do with clarity of the view only with whether or not your crosshairs stay exactly on the same spot as you move around. I was told for proper adjustment i may not be in focus.

 

[dedogs]

more often than not going side to side will cause varied results.

I am totally baffled by this. How can you repeatedly hit where you are aiming if the cross-hairs move side to side. I too have seen this on a # of Night Force scopes. dedogs

 

[Kramerica]

I am totally baffled by this. How can you repeatedly hit where you are aiming if the cross-hairs move side to side. I too have seen this on a # of Night Force scopes. dedogs

Not sure, I did just read an article that said it’s not possible to have no vertical parallax and have horizontal parallax. It said that could be an eye issue or moving the rifle with your cheek. So it very well could just be me I’m not ruling that out. I bring it out to 600 yards pretty often and I can keep it under 1MOA most of the time. Here’s the article it was a pretty good read. https://www.snipercountry.com/scope-parallax/

 

[wedgy]

@Milo 2.0 i am understanding that paralax has absolutely nothing to do with clarity of the view only with whether or not your crosshairs stay exactly on the same spot as you move around. I was told for proper adjustment i may not be in focus.

There are a couple threads about NF scopes not being in focus when they are parallax free, of my 4 NF scopes(3 NXS + 1 ATACR) only one NXS will be in focus and parallax free. The eyepiece needs to be adjusted correctly, that could be an issues. None of my other brand of scopes have this issue. Also I am not a fan of the eyepiece rotating when I turn the power knob.
https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/parallax-vs-focus.1988/

 

[alinwa]

Not sure, I did just read an article that said it’s not possible to have no vertical parallax and have horizontal parallax. It said that could be an eye issue or moving the rifle with your cheek. So it very well could just be me I’m not ruling that out. I bring it out to 600 yards pretty often and I can keep it under 1MOA most of the time. Here’s the article it was a pretty good read. https://www.snipercountry.com/scope-parallax/

That article sounds like one of my f'rav'rite posters.... Paul Coburn, "CatShooter"....meow....

He don't come aroun' no more.....

I have many times gotten side-parallax when free of vertical. I fight it....and not with cheap scopes. My "cheap" scopes are Leupold.....Last week it was with a March 8-80

I don't have an answer but mostly often manage to fiddlify it out

I've even at times switched out my prescription shooting glasses for un-corrected vision and regular glass, RE-set the eyepiece and started over....

"moving the rifle...cheek...etc"

bahhhhh humbug....

"How come everybody else's world is so friggin' EASY???"

LOL

al

 

[dedogs]

Paul Coburn, "CatShooter

That's Corbin aka "Condor" @ Sniper's Hide. He also shows up @ Saubier as Catshooter once in awhile. dedogs

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Maybe by closing one eye?
Parallax for me is a non issue, I focus the reticle adjust the so called parallax turret to the target and keep both eyes open and squeeze off a round.
I define Parallax as standing close in front of a tree . I see one tree, now step back a few yards and you see the edges of the tree behind it. Am I right or wrong?
Probably Wrong

Think of a needle on a meter or even a mechanical speedometer in your truck. The passenger sees a different speed than you do. The good analog voltmeters and such have a mirror behind the pointer so you can move your head and line it up perfectly

 

[dedogs]

I have read Paul's article a number of times(have it saved in my archives) and fully understand how a scope works. It is after all the point of the article and Paul is a very good teacher. My issue is with the Night Force rep. saying you can get the up and down parallax out of their scopes but often you cannot get the side to side parallax out. WTH! dedogs

 

[Texas10]

That's a good parallel
That must be why the wife keeps telling me to slow down

You must have a right hand drive car. Are you a rural delivery postman?

 

[Milo 2.0]

@Milo 2.0 i am understanding that paralax has absolutely nothing to do with clarity of the view only with whether or not your crosshairs stay exactly on the same spot as you move around. I was told for proper adjustment i may not be in focus.

This post has me reeling, of coarse owners or instruction manuals and myself have never got along.
I have a 7 saum, NF 7-35, I have never hit an IPSC size target past 1650 with it. My older setups 1850 seemed like a chip shot.
I was out a month ago, and was shooting good that day, tried 1850, it was like I was shaking. I recall trying to break shots when the crosshair was in the right position, then after asking myself why did you fire.
Guess what I am doing later today or tomorrow morning.

 

[Tim s]

Not for nothing but with a lot of quality target scopes all of this is made a bit more challenging if you have not precisely focused your reticle and with a lot of Niteforce's fine x hairs it bears checking a few times. If you take more than 5-10 seconds it is easy for your eyes to adjust and fool yourself.
I had to do it 3-4 times on my BR 42 before I was satisfied.
As to the OP's original question, we shoot a 200yd club BR match and 50yd RF match every week for good practice and always need to tweak both LCS 45's parallax a bit.

 

[dedogs]

if you have not precisely focused your reticle and with a lot of Niteforce's fine x hairs it bears checking a few times.

I agree 100%. This is often the problem. dedogs

 

[Tim s]

This post has me reeling, of coarse owners or instruction manuals and myself have never got along.
I have a 7 saum, NF 7-35, I have never hit an IPSC size target past 1650 with it. My older setups 1850 seemed like a chip shot.
I was out a month ago, and was shooting good that day, tried 1850, it was like I was shaking. I recall trying to break shots when the crosshair was in the right position, then after asking myself why did you fire.
Guess what I am doing later today or tomorrow morning.

Light refraction, generally, has a lot to do with POI considerations.
Here is a perfect example I have used with several witnesses with dropped jaws.
For years, We shot nothing but LCS 40's-45's and before that 36's, until the March's hit the USA and after a bit, bought my first one.
I forgot who exactly told me to try this test but I set my gun up at 200 at the IBS 200-300 nationals well before the match in mid summer and centered the dot right in the mothball and left it there for 5 minutes plus so many could view and as you looked for a minute or so you could watch that dot slowly drift out almost to the 9 ring, more than once. The LCS set up next-door barely budged.
This is one of THE principle reasons guys like Tony B began to advocate getting all your shots in a group fired in no more than 20-30 seconds unless you get caught in a switch and have to go to the sighter. If you're a picker it's easier to get caught out.The farther the distance, the more important because, loosely translated, your scope is no longer looking where your barrel is pointing.
Remember in BR matches we're only talking, generally, a couple bullet holes, but it is a substantial factor, often...not always, but often.

 

[Milo 2.0]

Light refraction, generally, has a lot to do with POI considerations.
Here is a perfect example I have used with several witnesses with dropped jaws.
For years, We shot nothing but LCS 40's-45's and before that 36's, until the March's hit the USA and after a bit, bought my first one.
I forgot who exactly told me to try this test but I set my gun up at 200 at the IBS 200-300 nationals well before the match in mid summer and centered the dot right in the mothball and left it there for 5 minutes plus so many view. and as you looked for a minute or so you could watch that dot slowly drift out almost to the 9 ring, more than once. The LCS set up next-door barely budged.
This is one of THE principle reasons guys like Tony B began to advocate getting all your shots in a group fired in no more than 20-30 seconds unless you get caught in a switch and have to go to the sighter. If you're a picker it's easier to get caught out.The farther the distance, the more important because, loosely translated, your scope is no longer looking where your barrel is pointing.
Remember in BR matches we're only talking, generally, a couple bullet holes, but it is a substantial factor, often...not always, but often.

Thanks, I've shot scoped rifles for over 40 yrs and can say, this was the first time I've consciously witnessed this. Could be I've never paid attention to it, or had the need to pay attn.
Other than hunting, if I am on a range shooting, once I close the bolt on a loaded rd, I'd say 4 seconds max and the bullet is leaving the barrel, or I'll pull the bolt back slightly and start over. I do not have a history of lingering on a target.
EDIT: I understand light refractions to a degree and mirage. Usually do not vapor lock me. I think I witnessed something new to myself, and the NF and I are going to have a range date, soon.

 

[Tim s]

Thanks, I've shot scoped rifles for over 40 yrs and can say, this was the first time I've consciously witnessed this. Could be I've never paid attention to it, or had the need to pay attn.
Other than hunting, if I am on a range shooting, once I close the bolt on a loaded rd, I'd say 4 seconds max and the bullet is leaving the barrel, or I'll pull the bolt back slightly and start over. I do not have a history of lingering on a target.
EDIT: I understand light refractions to a degree and mirage. Usually do not vapor lock me. I think I witnessed something new to myself, and the NF and I are going to have a range date, soon.

Remember the point, It makes no difference how long you take for a single shot but when you use the same sighting point for multiple shots in those conditions......like in a BR group.

 

[Milo 2.0]

Remember the point, It makes no difference how long you take for a single shot but when you use the same sighting point for multiple shots in those conditions......like in a BR group.

Yes, right, but I was talking about dropping single shots a long ways away, not bolt ripping. At 1850 yards shooting a sub moa target width wise, it's quite a different sight picture than shooting at a 10" circle at 1K.

 

[msinc]

........I did just read an article that said it’s not possible to have no vertical parallax and have horizontal parallax........

As hard as it is for me to agree or support anything that flaming idiot writes, this is probably true. There's a reason he "don't come around anymore"...he cant. Or at least he is not supposed to. That jacka$$ has been banned from just about every forum on the web. He will still try though. Just cannot help it, he shows up about every 4-6 months or so with a new username. I think they figure him out {it aint hard} and once again get rid of him. His number one claim to fame is that he "wrote the third most important paper on eyeglass repair".
Here is a quick way to check out really having vertical and no horizontal {or the other way around??}...Look thru the scope and identify which it is, then turn the entire rifle 90 degrees and try again to see if the parallax movement you are seeing changes to the opposite. If it is truly in the scope then it has to. If it remains horizontal with the rifle turned then it has to be something you are doing.
Parallax error {that movement you see} occurs when the reticle is not on the same focal plane as the rest of the scope. Many scopes have a separate focus at the eyepiece. This sometimes has a pretty wide range in which the reticle can appear in focus. It still has to be correct {in the right place} or the side or objective focus may appear fuzzy when parallax is gone.
I also hate posting on optics questions because it seems like everyone has a different way of wording things optical. How easy or hard it is to adjust out parallax has a lot to do with the design and quality of the optic to begin with. One scope that stands out {probably because it was purpose designed this way} is the USMC Unertl 10X. Also known as the MST-100, initially it is a real pain to get focused, but once you have it there is no parallax over a very wide range. Of course it's a fixed power, so that helps a lot although when you compare it to the Leupold M1 Mark 4 {also a fixed 10X} with it's side focus that constantly needs cranked on to eliminate parallax error it shines.

 

[Kramerica]

As hard as it is for me to agree or support anything that flaming idiot writes, this is probably true. There's a reason he "don't come around anymore"...he cant. Or at least he is not supposed to. That jacka$$ has been banned from just about every forum on the web. He will still try though. Just cannot help it, he shows up about every 4-6 months or so with a new username. I think they figure him out {it aint hard} and once again get rid of him. His number one claim to fame is that he "wrote the third most important paper on eyeglass repair".
Here is a quick way to check out really having vertical and no horizontal {or the other way around??}...Look thru the scope and identify which it is, then turn the entire rifle 90 degrees and try again to see if the parallax movement you are seeing changes to the opposite. If it is truly in the scope then it has to. If it remains horizontal with the rifle turned then it has to be something you are doing.
Parallax error {that movement you see} occurs when the reticle is not on the same focal plane as the rest of the scope. Many scopes have a separate focus at the eyepiece. This sometimes has a pretty wide range in which the reticle can appear in focus. It still has to be correct {in the right place} or the side or objective focus may appear fuzzy when parallax is gone.
I also hate posting on optics questions because it seems like everyone has a different way of wording things optical. How easy or hard it is to adjust out parallax has a lot to do with the design and quality of the optic to begin with. One scope that stands out {probably because it was purpose designed this way} is the USMC Unertl 10X. Also known as the MST-100, initially it is a real pain to get focused, but once you have it there is no parallax over a very wide range. Of course it's a fixed power, so that helps a lot although when you compare it to the Leupold M1 Mark 4 {also a fixed 10X} with it's side focus that constantly needs cranked on to eliminate parallax error it shines.

I had no idea about the guy who wrote that obviously. Thank you for the info, I’ll give that tip a try

 

[Don_Parsons]

If your optic is focused for your eye, and the parallax is dialed in for the intended target at X range,,, the cross hairs will remain centred on the V ring no mater where the eye is to the optic lens.

Follow the F Class optic tuning idea if your interested in keeping the cross hairs on target.

This will prevent future mistakes when your trying to gain over all points.