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New stuff fireform questions

There will be a million opinions on how to do this. Somewhere in between will be what works for you so take a little from each person and see what works.

My method is what I use for F class with good results.

I have my rifles chambered to zero headspace for a very tight chamber to begin. With a barrel nut switch barrel you can do that yourself.

I then remove my firing pin from the bolt. I have a mechanical ejector but you will also want to remove your ejector in the savage so nothing interferes with the bolt closure or headspace.

Now your bolt should drop closed by gravity.

Take a new case and measure the datum and make note. I use the Hornady comparator to do this. Put a new case in the bolt and it likely won't fall closed with zero headspace. I know my Lapua brass does not. Now start bumping the shoulder .001 at a time until the bolt drops freely. Record the measurement. Now do this on 4 more cases and you should find a point where it is very consistent. This should now give you the equivalent to a slight shoulder bump.

I anneal my brass after every firing so I don't worry about spring back or overworking my brass.

With this method I basically size all new brass to my chamber and never have to fireform since even new brass gets bumped ever so slightly.

I will neck turn new brass, full length size(or basically bump), size my neck and shoot. I will compete with brand new brass and have noticed zero difference between new or fired brass this way.

Again, this is MY method. Somewhere in between may or may not work for you.

Sorry I didn't text you back yesterday, I was busy painting all day.
 
Loaded new unfired 6.5 CM Lapua brass with 41.0 gr H4350 and 140 Berger hybrids seated 0.004” into the lands from touching and scored 597 of 600 at club match. Chrono avg of 2754 FPS on the test loads.

First and second relays were cleans.

Load them up and shoot them. Barrel life is short.
 
I just ordered 200 peices of peterson brass, an annealeez, and im getting ready to order a shillen select match 28" barrel for my savage 12 lrp in 6.5 creedmoor.

The question is: i have read lots about fireforming new brass with pistol powder, i keep w231 on hand for 38 special. Would i be better off breaking in the new barrel by fireforming those 200 brass with 140 grain pills and a light load?
If you order a select match barrel from Shilen you have a choice of neck sizes if you select the small neck size chances are you will have to turn the necks on the new brass.
 
There will be a million opinions on how to do this. Somewhere in between will be what works for you so take a little from each person and see what works.

My method is what I use for F class with good results.

I have my rifles chambered to zero headspace for a very tight chamber to begin. With a barrel nut switch barrel you can do that yourself.

I then remove my firing pin from the bolt. I have a mechanical ejector but you will also want to remove your ejector in the savage so nothing interferes with the bolt closure or headspace.

Now your bolt should drop closed by gravity.

Take a new case and measure the datum and make note. I use the Hornady comparator to do this. Put a new case in the bolt and it likely won't fall closed with zero headspace. I know my Lapua brass does not. Now start bumping the shoulder .001 at a time until the bolt drops freely. Record the measurement. Now do this on 4 more cases and you should find a point where it is very consistent. This should now give you the equivalent to a slight shoulder bump.

I anneal my brass after every firing so I don't worry about spring back or overworking my brass.

With this method I basically size all new brass to my chamber and never have to fireform since even new brass gets bumped ever so slightly.

I will neck turn new brass, full length size(or basically bump), size my neck and shoot. I will compete with brand new brass and have noticed zero difference between new or fired brass this way.

Again, this is MY method. Somewhere in between may or may not work for you.

Sorry I didn't text you back yesterday, I was busy painting all day.
whatever works for you but i am curious


well i know with a savage you can set the headspace on the barrel anywhere you want to.

did you use a piece of new brass to headspace your barrel?

have you ever checked that with a go gauge. Not that it really matters but it seems to me you may have created a short chamber.
 
If you order a select match barrel from Shilen you have a choice of neck sizes if you select the small neck size chances are you will have to turn the necks on the new brass.

no turn necks are really the way to go. even then turning the necks for consistent neck thickness helps in consistent neck tension and runout.
 
whatever works for you but i am curious


well i know with a savage you can set the headspace on the barrel anywhere you want to.

did you use a piece of new brass to headspace your barrel?

have you ever checked that with a go gauge. Not that it really matters but it seems to me you may have created a short chamber.
I havent got the barrel yet i hope flintcreek6412 is going to help me with it.
I already turn neck.
In 6.5 creedmoor they dont have a chamber selection. At least not that i see i may be missing it. I do have the go and no go ordered.
 
I havent got the barrel yet i hope flintcreek6412 is going to help me with it.
I already turn neck.
In 6.5 creedmoor they dont have a chamber selection. At least not that i see i may be missing it. I do have the go and no go ordered.
I would just call them. Got 223 AR barrel from them love it never shows any copper fowling.
 
whatever works for you but i am curious


well i know with a savage you can set the headspace on the barrel anywhere you want to.

did you use a piece of new brass to headspace your barrel?

have you ever checked that with a go gauge. Not that it really matters but it seems to me you may have created a short chamber.

Yes, I have checked with a go gauge. When I have used a barrel nut on both a savage and a Big Horn I will screw the barrel in until it just touches the go gauge. I will mark the barrel and tighten all up and make sure the go still works.

My current action is a Kelbly and they headspaced it for me with a tight chamber. It not only enhances brass life but keeps me from having to fireform. Now if you are needing all the case capacity possible I understand that isn't the route to take. But for me, I've never had trouble finding the a node with my tight chamber.

As my post stated, this is for f-class. Reloads only. Some ammo probably won't fit but I've never put anything but my own loads in it.
 
Yes, I have checked with a go gauge. When I have used a barrel nut on both a savage and a Big Horn I will screw the barrel in until it just touches the go gauge. I will mark the barrel and tighten all up and make sure the go still works.

My current action is a Kelbly and they headspaced it for me with a tight chamber. It not only enhances brass life but keeps me from having to fireform. Now if you are needing all the case capacity possible I understand that isn't the route to take. But for me, I've never had trouble finding the a node with my tight chamber.

As my post stated, this is for f-class. Reloads only. Some ammo probably won't fit but I've never put anything but my own loads in it.

personally i use a go with my savages setting them up but if it winds up a little big it doesn't matter to me. each rifle has it's own set of brass and i certainly don't size to SAAMI specs

nothing wrong with a custom chamber. we do wildcats all the time. fireform brass to fit most any kind of chamber.

if it works for you great.
 
I am really impressed by this Peterson brass. I havent weight sorted it but the necks are very consistent and turn really nice.
 

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