So basically keep backing off my bump till the brass quits growing. Should be easy enough to keep measuring and backing off for.
don't bump the shoulder till the brass quits growing. otherwise you are working your brass unnecessarily
So basically keep backing off my bump till the brass quits growing. Should be easy enough to keep measuring and backing off for.
If you order a select match barrel from Shilen you have a choice of neck sizes if you select the small neck size chances are you will have to turn the necks on the new brass.I just ordered 200 peices of peterson brass, an annealeez, and im getting ready to order a shillen select match 28" barrel for my savage 12 lrp in 6.5 creedmoor.
The question is: i have read lots about fireforming new brass with pistol powder, i keep w231 on hand for 38 special. Would i be better off breaking in the new barrel by fireforming those 200 brass with 140 grain pills and a light load?
whatever works for you but i am curiousThere will be a million opinions on how to do this. Somewhere in between will be what works for you so take a little from each person and see what works.
My method is what I use for F class with good results.
I have my rifles chambered to zero headspace for a very tight chamber to begin. With a barrel nut switch barrel you can do that yourself.
I then remove my firing pin from the bolt. I have a mechanical ejector but you will also want to remove your ejector in the savage so nothing interferes with the bolt closure or headspace.
Now your bolt should drop closed by gravity.
Take a new case and measure the datum and make note. I use the Hornady comparator to do this. Put a new case in the bolt and it likely won't fall closed with zero headspace. I know my Lapua brass does not. Now start bumping the shoulder .001 at a time until the bolt drops freely. Record the measurement. Now do this on 4 more cases and you should find a point where it is very consistent. This should now give you the equivalent to a slight shoulder bump.
I anneal my brass after every firing so I don't worry about spring back or overworking my brass.
With this method I basically size all new brass to my chamber and never have to fireform since even new brass gets bumped ever so slightly.
I will neck turn new brass, full length size(or basically bump), size my neck and shoot. I will compete with brand new brass and have noticed zero difference between new or fired brass this way.
Again, this is MY method. Somewhere in between may or may not work for you.
Sorry I didn't text you back yesterday, I was busy painting all day.
If you order a select match barrel from Shilen you have a choice of neck sizes if you select the small neck size chances are you will have to turn the necks on the new brass.
I havent got the barrel yet i hope flintcreek6412 is going to help me with it.whatever works for you but i am curious
well i know with a savage you can set the headspace on the barrel anywhere you want to.
did you use a piece of new brass to headspace your barrel?
have you ever checked that with a go gauge. Not that it really matters but it seems to me you may have created a short chamber.
I would just call them. Got 223 AR barrel from them love it never shows any copper fowling.I havent got the barrel yet i hope flintcreek6412 is going to help me with it.
I already turn neck.
In 6.5 creedmoor they dont have a chamber selection. At least not that i see i may be missing it. I do have the go and no go ordered.
whatever works for you but i am curious
well i know with a savage you can set the headspace on the barrel anywhere you want to.
did you use a piece of new brass to headspace your barrel?
have you ever checked that with a go gauge. Not that it really matters but it seems to me you may have created a short chamber.
Yes, I have checked with a go gauge. When I have used a barrel nut on both a savage and a Big Horn I will screw the barrel in until it just touches the go gauge. I will mark the barrel and tighten all up and make sure the go still works.
My current action is a Kelbly and they headspaced it for me with a tight chamber. It not only enhances brass life but keeps me from having to fireform. Now if you are needing all the case capacity possible I understand that isn't the route to take. But for me, I've never had trouble finding the a node with my tight chamber.
As my post stated, this is for f-class. Reloads only. Some ammo probably won't fit but I've never put anything but my own loads in it.