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Cleaning Rifle After Shooting?

When I finish shooting I normally push down a patch wetted w/ powder solvent followed by a dry patch followed by a patch wetted w/ Kroil. Is this good enough or should I fully clean the barrel after a shooting session. BTW, I typically shoot 20 to 30 rounds per session.
 
If you are maintaining accuracy you should be good to go. A more thorough regimen now and again wouldn’t hurt.
 
I will give you two examples of what I do. EXAMPLE#1: If I am in load development, I will shoot UP TO 100 rounds, with the same powder, prior to cleaning. However, cleaning means down to the bone! EXAMPLE#2: In Arizona we have this situation I call "Plink-a-Thons" where instead of shooting matches, we shoot almost always "practices" that consist of shooting 3 matches "back-to-back-to-back"! Doing this in an hour will destroy your throat! So I bring 2 rifles. The first and third "matches" I shoot with one and the second I shoot with the other. Then the next time out I shoot the first and third matches with the rifle I only shot once in the previous match and the second match with the rifle I shot matches 1 and 3 with prior. I DO NOT clean between the 2 sets of matches. However, once all the matches are done, I scrub both barrels down to the bone! Never had any ill effects nor degradation of accuracy..
 
For most rifles that don't foul a lot, I'll run 3-4 soaking wet patches through bore. Then apply Wipe-Out foam. I wait about 20 minutes as the bubbles dissipate, while I'm loading my gear into the car. Then I reapply the foam, and plug muzzle and breech. I drive home and patch out about 3-4 hours later. That's it. With other barrels I might brush a little to remove hard carbon -- but I rarely shoot more than 70 rounds in one session and the wet patches and WipeOut takes care of that, if applied right after you shoot.

With the Wipe-out, no carbon ring after hundreds of rounds with Varget and H4350.

There are many other ways to clean that may work for you. I know those who believe aggressive bronze brushing works well for them. As a general principle, however, with a really good-shooting barrel, I take the conservative approach. YMMV.
 
There are many other ways to clean that may work for you. I know those who believe aggressive bronze brushing works well for them. As a general principle, however, with a really good-shooting barrel, I take the conservative approach. YMMV.

That is probably the best answer on cleaning I have every seen. I always figure if you ask 10 people on what works best (method, mechanical/chemical) etc. you will get at least 12 answers.
 
This is one of those issues where there are a lot of opinions and few facts. I'll add my opinion.;)

In season, I clean every 30 rounds. I normally only shoot 10 to 12 per range session when practicing so I don't necessarily clean after shooting. I clean based on round count, in season.

About a year ago I switches to Bore Tech products because the smell of Shooter's Choice was driving wifey crazy. I was very impressed with Bore Tech and now use it exclusively.

Since I believe that a bronze brush is desirable to prevent a carbon ring I opted for the two part Bore Tech system. I used their Carbon Removal, C4, with a bronze brush. After dry patching I run a couple of patches of their copper removal, C2, down the bore. After the specified dwell time I dry patch. If I see evidence of copper I go to a full C2 treatment with 15 passes of a saturated nylon brush. Every 100 rounds I do a full C2 treatment.

If you use Dewey no harm bronze brushes and a rod guide you won't harm the bore using a bronze brush.
 
This is one of those issues where there are a lot of opinions and few facts. I'll add my opinion.;)

In season, I clean every 30 rounds. I normally only shoot 10 to 12 per range session when practicing so I don't necessarily clean after shooting. I clean based on round count, in season.

About a year ago I switches to Bore Tech products because the smell of Shooter's Choice was driving wifey crazy. I was very impressed with Bore Tech and now use it exclusively.

Since I believe that a bronze brush is desirable to prevent a carbon ring I opted for the two part Bore Tech system. I used their Carbon Removal, C4, with a bronze brush. After dry patching I run a couple of patches of their copper removal, C2, down the bore. After the specified dwell time I dry patch. If I see evidence of copper I go to a full C2 treatment with 15 passes of a saturated nylon brush. Every 100 rounds I do a full C2 treatment.

If you use Dewey no harm bronze brushes and a rod guide you won't harm the bore using a bronze brush.
I switched to Boretech a few years ago and use it exclusively now, if you haven’t tried it you should.. I’ve seen no ill effects with using a bronze brush..follow the instructions on the Boretech bottles..
 
It takes hours of brushing to get mine totally clean, per bore scope.
Jb on a patched brush does more in a couple of passes than dozen of patches alone.
The patches do nothing but wipe out the grit.
That's what I have found out using a bore scope.
Finding what the gun likes seems to be a point. Mine likes to be clean.
Patches
Brush
Jb
Patches
Until the cows come home !
 
For most rifles that don't foul a lot, I'll run 3-4 soaking wet patches through bore. Then apply Wipe-Out foam. I wait about 20 minutes as the bubbles dissipate, while I'm loading my gear into the car. Then I reapply the foam, and plug muzzle and breech. I drive home and patch out about 3-4 hours later. That's it. With other barrels I might brush a little to remove hard carbon -- but I rarely shoot more than 70 rounds in one session and the wet patches and WipeOut takes care of that, if applied right after you shoot.

With the Wipe-out, no carbon ring after hundreds of rounds with Varget and H4350.

There are many other ways to clean that may work for you. I know those who believe aggressive bronze brushing works well for them. As a general principle, however, with a really good-shooting barrel, I take the conservative approach. YMMV.
+1 on this method , it works for me as well... If I just can't get something stubborn out , a few strokes with a brush and re-foam , then an oily patch followed by how ever many dry patches , depending on how long it will be stored...
 
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For stubborn fouling between JB or Iosso, I clean using Boretech Carbon cleaner with bronze brush and leave Carbon cleaner in over night then do the same with Copper remover... stripes most everything out.I Iosso every 200-250 to remove really stubborn build up in first few inches of barrel.
 
Quote: It takes hours of brushing to get mine totally clean, per bore scope.

You don't necessarily need to get your barrel totally clean. The last time I bore-scoped my 6BR barrel I saw some black streaks in the grooves. I was about to break out the brush for the first time ever (in 700+ rounds). Then my buddy said -- "let's shoot it first".

We did. With him pulling the trigger it did a 0.148" 4-shot group at 100 yards after two fouling shots. This is with a PacNor 3-groove.

Re bronze brushing -- it's not just the barrel's innards to consider -- it's your crown (particularly if you draw the brush back in after the "out" stroke). There's a reason the short-range BR guys, who bronze brush a LOT, also recrown their barrels regularly.

I want to stress that different techniques are appropriate for different barrels, disciplines and shot strings. But I know a guy in New Mexico who also practices the conservative approach. He also happens to be the current F-Class world champion and K02M champ.

You can always "evolve" to aggressive brushing, use of abrasives etc., but I suggest people begin conservatively -- and see how that works. And if you've never tried WipeOut, you should.
 
When I finish shooting I normally push down a patch wetted w/ powder solvent followed by a dry patch followed by a patch wetted w/ Kroil. Is this good enough or should I fully clean the barrel after a shooting session. BTW, I typically shoot 20 to 30 rounds per session.

Well, there are a LOT of great answers above, I just would like to make one comment.

It's easier to KEEP a barrel clean than to clean a really dirty barrel.

I still relive the nightmare of getting my BR barrel clean. After a year of basic cleaning (A clean patch tells your nothing, only a scope does) and finding the carbon ring and the first 3 inches of the barrel with layers of hard carbon and some copper. The worse, on and off week of cleaning sessions of my life...

Robert
 
Well all Great information posted .
I shoot Long Range . I have shot 3 Day Marches 60 rounds a day . Had Barrels I didn’t clean till I got Home .
I have a Barrel now that is a Hammer !! To a point .
It won’t do a 3 day Match .
If Copper fouls like nothing I have ever had ?
My feeling the Bad Boy is like People Not all equal .
It at around 900 rounds fired , hoping for little improvement????
 
In Short range Benchrest we clean after every group or every other group. I like Eliminator. A couple of patches of carbon remover-C-4, and a few patches of Eliminator Bore cleaner with a proof positive jag will give me a good idea what is going on. I have found the C4 is the best on carbon rings.
If you want to make an investment, buy a Hawkeye Bore Scope
 
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A little powder or copper fouling is no problem. Hard carbon is. Its not something you want building up. Different cartridge/powder combos will carbon foul at different rates. When I get phone calls regarding carbon build up, the first thing I ask is, are you using a bronze brush? The answer is always no.
 
A little powder or copper fouling is no problem. Hard carbon is. Its not something you want building up. Different cartridge/powder combos will carbon foul at different rates. When I get phone calls regarding carbon build up, the first thing I ask is, are you using a bronze brush? The answer is always no.
I am in T-Total agreement in regards to the use of bronze brushes. I will tell you a "For Real" story. I bought a Rock Creek (before he went military for awhile) 30 cal barrel for a .308 build. I said to myself "if I start right from the get-go and NOT use bronze brushes, ONLY very stiff nylon brushes, along with A GOOD SOAKING of Bore-Tech Eliminator, should maintain a clean barrel". As usual, after about 400 rounds back then, I took my rifle to my smith where he would check with his Hawkeye. I had LOTS of carbon, ie. HARD CARBON build up for nearly half the barrel length! So my "experiment" took me to the conclusion that without a GOOD scrubbing with a bronze brush AND fairly periodic scrubbing with either JB Bore Paste or Iosso Bore Paste, you CAN NOT get the hard carbon out of the barrel. Fortunately for me, I only let it go so far. Yet, I remember the ALL AFTERNOON into the evening of scrubbing to get the carbon out! Horrible! Do NOT let it get out of control in the first place!
 
First, thank you OP for asking the same question I had. Second, thank all of the great members of this forum for offering sound advice. My .223 used to shoot 0.5" MOA on a good day with good ammo if I was doing my part. Now I can barely keep groups under 2". I was using Hoppes #9 and following some internet information about how to clean. It was on YouTube, so it must be true :). Then I started to wonder about Copper fouling, and I bought some Bore Tech Cu2. The blue-colored patches never stop. I feel like I could scrub for 10 hours and still would not get all of the copper. I suspect that my bore is severely fouled, and I worry that scrubbing endlessly with a bronze brush will actually cause damage, so I have been using a nylon brush. I get the impression that most responses to this post actually recommend the bronze brush and aggressive solvents. Never heard of hard carbon, but there's a good chance I have that too. Can someone elaborate on how/why this hard carbon forms?
 

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