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BOLT MODS FOR SAVAGE F/TR BUILD

It is similar enough that the difference would be tough to determine. This is where I buy my kits.


Just sent them an email asking them to confirm 6-8 week lead time. Also started looking at the thrust bearing mod that some are doing. I like the bearing idea but a little concerned about trimming the BAS and/or the cocking sleeve.
 
Just sent them an email asking them to confirm 6-8 week lead time. Also started looking at the thrust bearing mod that some are doing. I like the bearing idea but a little concerned about trimming the BAS and/or the cocking sleeve.
Unless you have a lathe or mill to shorten the BAS I would pass on that one. To easy to screw up..
 
no I bought the ball bearing and steel sleeve type that sits on top, I drilled the pilot offcenter on the retainer nut but it works
 
no I bought the ball bearing and steel sleeve type that sits on top, I drilled the pilot offcenter on the retainer nut but it works

With my luck, it wouldn’t work if I tried this. Left another VM with CG&A and a text message on FB. Hope they have this kit and can ship soon.
 
C.G.A., L.L.C. receives over 100 calls and emails everyday. I try to return the calls with in a day or two of receiving them it is a one man shop. I have a restricted phone ID for a good reason, and when returning calls many folks want answer their phones. Many more don't have no answering machines, and/or have full voice mail boxes. If I don't get the person in two attempts I move on. I sell aftermarket parts, secondary to building custom rifles. My Bolt lift kit is not just a drop in fix, it requires some machining, polishing and general gunsmithing skills. It come with detailed instructions. There are several Savage bolt lift kits available each address friction issues. To my knowledge my bolt lift lit is the only one that allows for external adjustment without compete bolt disassembly. If properly fitted and adjusted my bolt lift kit will reduce bolt lift by 40-60 percent.
Nat Lambeth
 
C.G.A., L.L.C. receives over 100 calls and emails everyday. I try to return the calls with in a day or two of receiving them it is a one man shop. I have a restricted phone ID for a good reason, and when returning calls many folks want answer their phones. Many more don't have no answering machines, and/or have full voice mail boxes. If I don't get the person in two attempts I move on. I sell aftermarket parts, secondary to building custom rifles. My Bolt lift kit is not just a drop in fix, it requires some machining, polishing and general gunsmithing skills. It come with detailed instructions. There are several Savage bolt lift kits available each address friction issues. To my knowledge my bolt lift lit is the only one that allows for external adjustment without compete bolt disassembly. If properly fitted and adjusted my bolt lift kit will reduce bolt lift by 40-60 percent.
Nat Lambeth

Glad I got the return call. I sent a check yesterday. Can’t wait to get the kit.
 
Blackthorn, when you use the set screw how do you determine how far to screw the firing pin into the cocking piece? Does this mod affect your firing pin total travel? Can you tell me your total firing pin travel or the minimum acceptable firing pin travel?
 
Blackthorn, when you use the set screw how do you determine how far to screw the firing pin into the cocking piece? Does this mod affect your firing pin total travel? Can you tell me your total firing pin travel or the minimum acceptable firing pin travel?

The set screw does not affect the firing pin or it's travel in any way. It hold the cocking pin tightly in its hole taking out the slop and prevents it from rotating (you can see the cocking pin hole in the picture. I usually hold the cocking pin about .080" off of the bottom of the cocking ramp per the Nat Lambeth instructions for his bolt lift kit (says about four rotations counter clockwise). Then I use the small set screw in the BAS to provide tension onto the cocking sleeve that in turns puts pressure on the firing pin without moving the cocking piece or cocking pin.
I'll have never measured my FP travel. Guess I have something interesting to do.:)
 
QUOTE="Blackthorn, post: 37188215, member: 1292117"]Looks great. Trash the o-rings (they never seem to stay on) and put a dab of blue thread locker on the knob threads.[/QUOTE]

1) O-Rings coming off, LocTite going on.

2) Lift kit installed per instructions. I’m still not clear on the depth of the BAS. It’s the same length as the factory + the protrusion + the thickness of the bearing device. The cocking knob is .080” off the bottom and I lengthened the FP assembly 4 turns per the instructions. I feel that i’m preloading the FP spring.

3) Overall, the lift is probably going to be acceptable but I won’t make that call until I mount my stock (ETA 2 weeks). Per my trigger gage, 5.25# to lift the bolt a cock the firing pin. 6.0# to close the bolt.

4) The instructions say to polish out the machine marks on the flats of the FP to prevent binding of the FP lock washer (see pic). The tooling marks weren’t visible until I lightly polished. Took some work but it’s almost got a mirror finish now.



5) Primary Extraction... Per the instructions, I should have “between .008” and .014” between the bolt handle and the back of the action rear bridge”. I’m measuring .045”. Am I looking at getting my bolt milled?

Thanks again for all the responses and help!
 

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