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This past summer I upgraded my Sheridan 20 cal to the Benjamin 22 cal 1100 Nitro XL. What a nice air rifle. Shoots around 850-1000 fps depending on which pellet. Shoots the PBA around 1100 but they are much too light. Very accurate with the heaviest and deadly on them hogs. Should have upgraded a long time ago.
Or use an air rifle...

I'm in OH and it is pretty much the same thing. Many farmers have sold off their a portion of their property close to the road. Leaves them a field but now you get city dwellers that build a home on the edge of a field. Kind of kills hunting in the field.
I just learned the village where I live bought 750 acres of hunting land to lease to a solar farm. So now I've lost 750 acres of hunting land.
Sad really.
For years I shot the old Daisy 881. then I went to a springer, a Winchester import of RWS model 45/450...an underlever 177 and a fine rifle. After wearing it out and rebuilding it, i bought two RWS 48 in 22. I liked those a lot too. But when I bought the 25 cal Marauder i was "blown away". Ya, it is a total PIA to pump up...and the high pressure tanks cost two arms and a leg, and if you don't have a scuba shop nearby you have to see a friendly volunteer FD, but wow, when you pull the trigger all the pain goes away. I have killed pigeons at 75 yards, and sparrows at 50 are as good as dead. This chuck never twitched at 20 yards. It will put one pellet after another in the same hole at 25 yards. At distance it requires a fine tuned attention to wind...but so does every air gun. I use the "wind on the hair of my legs" method in summer, and the "which way is the frost of my breath going" method in the winter.Parker, that looks like a modog of an air rifle you're packing. I suppose you have to limit your shots to 200 yds or so with an air gun??
I'm having trouble with my air rifle arsenal that I think may be caused by lack of quality. One rifle is a Ruger Air-Hawk that won't keep shots on an 8x10 page at 20 yards. The other is a Chianese tool sale model that is a little better but still no peach. I'd frankly do as well with my Red Ryder.
Got a spot up the high way that needs to be shot with an air gun for safety, and I'm thinking of up-grading. jd
Just a word for those that don't know, Wyoming has gates across the freeways during the winter sometimes, not that it snows or blows or anything there.
I just came back inside from shooting a dozen shots with the Air-Hawk. Someone told me that it might get better with use. Out of a dozen, I put about five in two inches, the rest were all over the place. (20 yds.) This was standing off-hand. I can do better with my bow.
Maybe I'll force myself to burn some pellets, and see if it will break in. jd
The only groundhog I’ve ever got to shoot at took up residence under my house in KY. I had to shoot him with a 22 Pistol to keep suspicion down since I lived in the middle of town.
Looking at Rickinoregon's photo showing the wheeled pipe in the background, it got me to wondering. Where i shoot 95% of the time, there are no irrigation pipes to worry about having a ricochet or misplaced shot do any damage, though when I do shoot at targets in front of those pipes, I am always cautious, as i never want to damage anyone's gear. I know what a direct hit on the pipe will do - as I have helped fix pipes shot by others, but I have always wondered whether what is left of the 32, 40 or 50 grain thin-jacketed varmint bullets typically retain enough enough kinetic energy to pierce the pipe. Obviously, the impact is greater 10 feet in front of the pipe as opposed to 100 yards. What is the rule of thumb you folks that shoot around that pipe a lot use as to how close of a shot you will take in front of the pipe? Like, no closer than 50 yards in front, Etc.? It would be best to not miss - but sometimes.....
What a beautiful spot. Is that a M1-A on your bench? dedogsI’d go broke buying barrels and ammo
What a beautiful spot. Is that a M1-A on your bench? dedogs
