mram10
When you pre drill the chamber prior to using the finishing reamer, does the reamer need to be locked in or in a floating holder? Wondering how a reamer pilot works without wobble. Thanks
I would pre drill and then bore the hole to make sure it is running true. Floating or solid does not really matter. If solid, your reamer best be straight or it will act like a boring bar and cut a big chamber.
Paul
Paul
Tim Singleton
Gold $$ Contributor
Drill just large enough to get my indicator to where the throat will be double check that. Then bore .015 under reamer size then ream with a pusher
Works pretty good
Works pretty good
mram10
Wouldn’t using the finishing reamer from start to finish be the most accurate way?
Tim Singleton
Gold $$ Contributor
As many different ways as people you talk to
I prefer a true bored hole for the reamer to follow
I tried this and had about .0015 runout. When pre-drilling and then boring, runout has never been that high....zero to .0002.
You don't have to take anyone's word, try it for yourself and let us know the results.
When these guys are talking about boring the hole they mean for you to use a small boring bar to accomplish this. A drill bit usually produces appx. .005 of runout and the boring bar will true that up to nearly nothing. It's a good idea to set your compound to 1degree and run the boring bar in with it. There are a number of small carbide boring bars on the market that are sharp as hell and cut very well.
Your going to get a million different responses and ways of doing this. Just try a few different ways and see what works for you.
I’ve had good results with .020-.030” undersized piloted core drills. It works for me and the way I setup my barrels and chamber.
I use to chamber start to finish with a finish reamer and a chamber flush system. This produced some pretty damn accurate rifles. But I wanted to reduce the amount of wear on my reamers which is why I drill with a piloted core drill now. Also I get my core drills fromJGS.
I’ve had good results with .020-.030” undersized piloted core drills. It works for me and the way I setup my barrels and chamber.
I use to chamber start to finish with a finish reamer and a chamber flush system. This produced some pretty damn accurate rifles. But I wanted to reduce the amount of wear on my reamers which is why I drill with a piloted core drill now. Also I get my core drills fromJGS.
paperpuncher
Gold $$ Contributor
Remove some material with the drill reach in with a long stem dti and indicate the throat True the hole by boring straight in leave enough so the reamer will clean it up. I used to taper bore with the compound but don't any longer. Once I'm happy with the bored hole I push the reamer with a dead center in the tail stock. I ream the chamber about half way this establishes good contact on the reamer, hence the reason for not taper boring any more. Now switch to a pusher and finish the chamber. You really don't need to use a bushing on the reamer. This is how I do it now but I have made changes over time. Experiment with it see what gives you good result and refine your methods as you go Good Luck have fun[/QUOTE]
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mram10
Thanks for all the advice guys. Not doing enough to ruin my reamers since I’m only building for myself. I’m still no understanding how a reamer pilot can follow the rifling if it is pre bored. I’ll read more
ab_bentley
I fix stuff, sometimes....
Don't drill the whole thing at once, measure from the neck shoulder junction to the middle of the bushing and drill that amount. That way you have your pilot engaged. If your tailstock is centered you don't really need a pilot, but it helps with the confidence thing to start with one.
butchlambert
Site $$ Sponsor
Not arguing your results. When you say no runout, how are you checking it? I would say that you would have a larger measurement at the base, not runout.
I use a test indicator just inside the chamber mouth, I agree with you that the OD at the base is probably larger than the reamer but believe it is so minimal that it isn't a problem.
Steve Bair
At the same time a Grizzly rod inserted into the barrel is also indicated for run out.
Thank you
Steve Bair
At the same time a Grizzly rod inserted into the barrel is also indicated for run out.
Thank you
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butchlambert
Site $$ Sponsor
You really can't check runout that way. Runout that you need to be concerned with is indicating just forward of the throat. I would expect the base part of the reamed hole would be great, but move on up forward of the throat and take another measurement.
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