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Neck turning once-fired cases

memilanuk

Gold $$ Contributor
Yeah, I know its not ideal. But I'm looking at a situation where I may need to neck-turn some 1x fired cases to match another batch.

The sizing die I have on hand is a Redding Type 'S' F/L bushing die... so sizing down to the base of the neck and then expanding for turning would require purchasing another sizing die. Are there any other options?
 
Make or have made a mandrel to fit the fired case.
Neck it up to the next mandrel size, turn then resize back down
No good options I don't think
 
Why would you need another sizing die?
Are you implying that the 1X fired cases were fired in another rifle so the headspace is lower (more) than your other batch of brass? If you can headspace the 1X brass the same as the other lot without having to adjust your FL die, I don't see the reasoning for another die. Maybe I'm missing something...
 
Yes, fired in another weapon. But my thoughts with another sizing die would be to get one that is *not* a bushing die, to size the necks all the way down to the shoulder.
 
Lee collet die? Do they go all the way to the shoulder?
 
Yes, fired in another weapon. But my thoughts with another sizing die would be to get one that is *not* a bushing die, to size the necks all the way down to the shoulder.

A non-bushing die would work because you have to expand to turn the necks anyhow. Problem is you have to size them back down again after turning. Your Type S won't size the whole neck back down after turning with where its set and a new non-bushing die won't give the same neck tension.

I would pick up a PMA click adjustable lock ring for your Type S FL die. Cost about $65.

1) Put the PMA ring on and adjust the die for the 1X brass.

2) Size them all as needed.

3) Take headspace measurements of the 1X brass and the original lot of brass.

4) Fire 3 pieces of the original lot brass.

5) Adjust the die up in .001" increments to the original brass headspace measurement you took earlier and test it on the first fired case from the original lot. If the headspace comes out right, you're good. If it's a little off, adjust the die and try it on the 2nd fired piece, then the 3rd if need be until it's right. If any of the 3 fired pieces get too much headspacing, they can be used as foulers. Or even thrown in with the 1X brass for that matter since that headspace will be off until you fire them anyhow.

PS: If you decide to go this route, make sure the brass is freshly annealed so you get consistent shoulder bumps when doing these adjustments.
 
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Monte, there is another option as I had this issue a few years ago when testing with a 280AI.
You must NOT attempt to turn necks after sizing with a bushing die or your neck will end up thinner where the bushing does not size.
A FL sizing die is the best option!
I did not want to invest in a FL sizing die so after some research I found a universal neck die. Hornady makes a neck die that will work based on caliber such as 6mm, 7mm, 30 cal, etc. you can adjust the die to size as much of the neck as you want and it’s only $30. This die does not touch the body or shoulder unless you let it size beyond the neck and go to far down on the neck to were it crashes into the shoulder.
Here is a link to the part numbers from brownells:
https://www.brownells.com/reloading...es/custom-grade-neck-size-dies-prod55242.aspx
 
Monte, there is another option as I had this issue a few years ago when testing with a 280AI.
You must NOT attempt to turn necks after sizing with a bushing die or your neck will end up thinner where the bushing does not size.
A FL sizing die is the best option!
I did not want to invest in a FL sizing die so after some research I found a universal neck die. Hornady makes a neck die that will work based on caliber such as 6mm, 7mm, 30 cal, etc. you can adjust the die to size as much of the neck as you want and it’s only $30. This die does not touch the body or shoulder unless you let it size beyond the neck and go to far down on the neck to were it crashes into the shoulder.
Here is a link to the part numbers from brownells:
https://www.brownells.com/reloading...es/custom-grade-neck-size-dies-prod55242.aspx

Never had a problem turning bushing sized cases with a quality neck turning tool using a cutter with the proper shoulder angle on the case. If you want to use cheap turners with straight cutters, then yeah Im sure you can have some issues trying to turn all the way to the base of the neck after sizing with a bushing. I turn down til I just clean up the brass onto the shoulder with my 21st Century turner. Never had any issues whatsoever.
 
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1) size to your normal bump with a non bushing, fl die
2) run expander mandrel thru neck
3) turn neck down to barely touch shoulder
:D
 
A Full length sizing die must be used. No bushing die.

My Lyman outside turning tool, used with the trimmer, requires FL sizing of the brass before turning.
After brass is turmed, load and fire. The next loading is with a Redding type S FL bushing die.

Or turn the fired brass
 
Why not use a good neck expanding die with a mandrel that is the exact dimensions you need to control the inside diameter of your necks all the way down to the shoulder? I use a Redding type S bushing die to squeeze my necks and then expand them to my desired inside diameter. I use pin gauges ($3 each) to do the expansion. I use one that is .001 bigger than my neck turner than after I'm finished neck turning I expand them to my desired neck tension using a different mandrel.

Its not a cheap solution, but once you have one of these dies you'll find all kinds of uses. You want 20# seating pressure, no problem just use the right mandrel. Do you want 40# seating pressure? No problem, just get a mandrel .001 bigger. At $3 each from Amazon getting the right mandrel is a no brainer. Ever dropped a case and dented a neck? No problem, just expand it. Worry about the donuts? No problem, just run a mandrel through it. This die makes all other expanding dies look primitive.

Joe

What Die is that? You have piqued my curiosity.

What Die is that? You have piqued my curiosity.
 
It isn't ideal but I have turned fired brass without creating any obvious issues. It was either do it or throw it away in my case so I did it.
As already stated, find one of the Hornady neck dies that is caliber (not cartridge) specific and set it up to size the entire neck. I bought several of them a couple months ago and they will also work well for necking new brass down if you want to go 6.5 Creedmoor to 6 Creedmoor or similar.
 
Thanks. I like the idea of swapping out industry standard pins vs. getting custom ones from the die maker. You could use one die for most calibers then a $3 pin.
 
This is not complicated. It is just that you are trying to avoid the expense of the obvious answer, nevertheless the obvious answer is the correct one. Buy a one piece (non-bushing) FL die and size the necks all the way down to the case shoulder, expand, and then turn. In the past, when comparing the straightness of expanded cases using the expander ball of a one piece die vs leaving it out of the die and expanding with a mandrel, the mandrel expanded cases were straighter. The exception is if you try this with a Forster press. Based on actual tests they are not suitable for expanding with a mandrel. For that work, a conventional press is much better.
 
A while back I corresponded with a fellow that was having major runout issues after expanding case necks. He has a Forster press and a Harrell press. Switching to the Harrell made a major difference in case runout after expanding. It may not be so dramatic when working within the same caliber but when expanding .220 Russian to 6mm to make 6PPC cases I have used a friend's Forster, my Rock Chucker, and my Harrell's Combo. The Forster was not acceptable, the RC was , and the very tight tolerance Harrell was the best.
 

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