Think this through. In the scenario that Steve describes, the mirage you are seeing isn't actually on the number board or berm, the straight edge is just what you are using as contrast to see the ripples in a light mirage condition. The mirage is obviously between the shooter and the target.
Reading Mirage
- Thread starter Kramerica
- Start date
Think this through. In the scenario that Steve describes, the mirage you are seeing isn't actually on the number board or berm, the straight edge is just what you are using as contrast to see the ripples in a light mirage condition. The mirage is obviously between the shooter and the target.
Not true. It depends where the scope is focused.
See if this works for you
memilanuk
Gold $$ Contributor
Not really. The line formatting is a bit wonky.
I've gone through and done something similar myself... but what it needs is the original graphic images, not scans of photocopies out of a hand-out.
Fast14riot
Gold $$ Contributor
I focus my spotting scope about halfway down range, leave scope focused on target. I put my spotting scope real close so I just lean slightly and open my off eye to see it.
Really? you even said that you back the focus off at the target. First you are giving up accuracy, second you should be reading your wind with the spotting scope. The wind can blow 4 different ways in a 1000 yards, and no matter what you do with the scope on your riffle you aren't going to see it, so you chase the spotter. You need to use the spotting scope to find out what is controlling the range.......When you shoot iron sights what do you use a spotting scope.... Jim
memilanuk
Gold $$ Contributor
Jim,
Steve shoots Any/Any, with a rifle scope, and a spotting scope, and has done so fairly well over the decade plus that I've known him. He may not have specified 'spotting scope', and I don't know exactly what he's looking at through the scope (either one)... but maybe dial back the 'tude a bit, eh?
Monte
Steve shoots Any/Any, with a rifle scope, and a spotting scope, and has done so fairly well over the decade plus that I've known him. He may not have specified 'spotting scope', and I don't know exactly what he's looking at through the scope (either one)... but maybe dial back the 'tude a bit, eh?
Monte
I normally focus half way to the target. Sometimes that's not the right distance. Last match I almost dropped a shot out the right side that the mirage did not show. I immediately focused the spotting scope back and forth a little until I saw just a faint amount of mirage run left to right. That setting held consistent the rest of the day and wind calls were spot on based on mirage through the spotting scope.
I think you are confounding posts since I agree with you
I think you are confounding posts since I agree with you
You said scope and like the others were speaking of a rifle scope and taking them out of focus. Sorry if it was miss understanding, I always try to find what condition I want to shoot in and the spotting scope will give me the speed and hopefully the direction with the flags. This has worked for over the years clear back to my M1 days. ...... Jim
I don't think that I mentioned the word 'scope' only where to find mirage otherwise, I agree!
Use mirage , flags, and a wind meter. Correlate all of the indicators. On a nice open range like Camp Perry or a big field, on a bright day. Observe the mirage noting the angle it makes with the ground, under 8 to 10 mph there will be an angle, over that speed it runs parallel to the ground. To determine the exact direction the wind is coming from (not just from the left, from the right) move the spotting scope side to side until the marriage boils (coming straight up). It really doesn't matter exactly where it is coming from, the angle the mirage makes with the ground indicates the wind speed you have to adjust for.
Bigger winds (10 and ++) you have to use the flags. Some of my friend that are really high level shooters can judge wind velocity based on how fast the mirage is running parallel to the ground. Not me.
Matching a flag with a wind meter and a scope on a open range helped me a lot. My home range has trees on both sides and the wind normally blows straight at the shooter, switching left and right. Usually not much more than a MOA. Keep up with the changes and you can shoot a good score.
Bigger winds (10 and ++) you have to use the flags. Some of my friend that are really high level shooters can judge wind velocity based on how fast the mirage is running parallel to the ground. Not me.
Matching a flag with a wind meter and a scope on a open range helped me a lot. My home range has trees on both sides and the wind normally blows straight at the shooter, switching left and right. Usually not much more than a MOA. Keep up with the changes and you can shoot a good score.
USMCDOC
Silver $$ Contributor
I used to do it the opposite.. i would get behind a good shooter and watch the mirage and the conditions.. then decide what is going to be needed for the next shot and see if that shooter puts on what i would think is the correct change.. it helped a lot!
That is a good way to learn, but it is better to let the MarineCorps teach you, but the price maybe expensive..... Jim
USMCDOC
Silver $$ Contributor
Semper Fi!
Depart123
Delfuego, that is a great document you posted in post #23. I will save it on my desktop. It corroborates everything I have learned by trial and error and puts it in a succinct narrative. It leaves out one aspect that would only apply to a hunter, a working precision marksman, or anyone who has to zero in one light condition and shoot in another.
The light from the sun pushes on it's own, the paper touches on that but doesn't go into it. The resultant mirage can either cancel out that push or add to it. I have seen rifles zero'd in light neutral, (heavy overcast with little to no mirage) demonstrate this quite clearly to my mind.
On a day when there is heavy mirage and gusty winds the rounds strike to point of aim when the wind is still. This is because the push from the sun is counteracted by the rising mirage. When the wind blows the mirage sideways however, the rounds can strike as much as 0.4 mils low. This is an extreme case, but I've seen it enough to know it is real.
Most competition shooters never see this because they most often zero in the light conditions they are competing in so the offset is already accounted for in the zero of the day.
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.