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Stock Checkering

long40shot

Gold $$ Contributor
I picked up a used Remington CDL stock. I like the stock, however the finish is a bit dinged up and there's a few chips in the finish. I might refinish the stock, but I'm not sure what to do with the checkering. Should i tape them off and sand the stock? Then what?
 
I would tape the checkering and refinish the stock then re cut the checkering with a single point tool. Finish that with thinned tru-oil.

Joe
 
I picked up a used Remington CDL stock. I like the stock, however the finish is a bit dinged up and there's a few chips in the finish. I might refinish the stock, but I'm not sure what to do with the checkering. Should i tape them off and sand the stock? Then what?
Like has been said, tape it off before sanding. Once the stock is sanded, "whiskered", sanded again, with progressively finer grits, give the checkering a good scrubbing with a tooth brush. A lot of times, the checkering will be crudded up and filled in with dirt, grime, etc. and only needs s good cleaning to bring it back.
If you do end up re-cutting it, use very little finish on the checkering itself, because the little diamonds have 'end grain' and will take finish differentlty than the rest of the stock.
 
Like has been said, tape it off before sanding. Once the stock is sanded, "whiskered", sanded again, with progressively finer grits, give the checkering a good scrubbing with a tooth brush. A lot of times, the checkering will be crudded up and filled in with dirt, grime, etc. and only needs s good cleaning to bring it back.
If you do end up re-cutting it, use very little finish on the checkering itself, because the little diamonds have 'end grain' and will take finish differentlty than the rest of the stock.
How should i clean the old finish out of the checkering?
 
Tooth brush , carefully. It all depends on the grade of wood and how many lines per inch . I would just tape it off and recut the lines . Recutting should remove the finish as it should of been checkered after the finish with just a lightly rubbed topcoat on the checkering .
 
I have re-cut more checkering than I care to recall. I always just stripped the entire stock checkering and all at the same time. Then do the refinish and do not sand on the checkering. I never had ot tape it off, just do not sand on it. Once the stock is sanded and refinished and you have it looking the way you want use a carbide straight 5/8" long single point checkering tool to re-cut the checkering. Do not try to make all the diamonds perfect and pointy on the first pass...maybe not even the second depending on how worn the checkering is. Do a little at a time and take as many passes as needed. You want to keep it uniform and even. When you get to where it looks "right", nice and pointy perfect diamonds use undiluted Tru-Oil rubbed in with a soft tooth brush. It always takes two good coats. Dab out any excess with a Q-tip. Make no mistake, when you re-cut with a checkering tool that checkering will be cleaned out. Just go slow and easy and use a light hand, especially at first...the tool will follow even very worn checkering you can barely see, but you must let the cutter do the following. As soon as you start to try to cut too much at once it will run out and you will "loose" the line. The re-cutting of checkering is like messing around with a Mexican girl...you gotta go slow and easy or it will bite you real bad.....send it to me and i'll do it if you prefer.
 
I have re-cut more checkering than I care to recall. I always just stripped the entire stock checkering and all at the same time. Then do the refinish and do not sand on the checkering. I never had ot tape it off, just do not sand on it. Once the stock is sanded and refinished and you have it looking the way you want use a carbide straight 5/8" long single point checkering tool to re-cut the checkering. Do not try to make all the diamonds perfect and pointy on the first pass...maybe not even the second depending on how worn the checkering is. Do a little at a time and take as many passes as needed. You want to keep it uniform and even. When you get to where it looks "right", nice and pointy perfect diamonds use undiluted Tru-Oil rubbed in with a soft tooth brush. It always takes two good coats. Dab out any excess with a Q-tip. Make no mistake, when you re-cut with a checkering tool that checkering will be cleaned out. Just go slow and easy and use a light hand, especially at first...the tool will follow even very worn checkering you can barely see, but you must let the cutter do the following. As soon as you start to try to cut too much at once it will run out and you will "loose" the line. The re-cutting of checkering is like messing around with a Mexican girl...you gotta go slow and easy or it will bite you real bad.....send it to me and i'll do it if you prefer.
 
Hi BUTCH thank you for your reply. the stock an fore end is from a 1968 BROWNING B.A.R. I had the barreled action reblued so now im trying to finish the stock if you can finish the stock please call me with price and shipping info.
thank you so much
CHANCE at (702) 523-1915
 
Hi BUTCH thank you for your reply. the stock an fore end is from a 1968 BROWNING B.A.R. I had the barreled action reblued so now im trying to finish the stock if you can finish the stock please call me with price and shipping info.
thank you so much
CHANCE at (702) 523-1915


Stockwork is not my thing. I let the pros do it.
 

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