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Lock rings and set screws..

Rsadams

Just thought I would share.. Everyone may already know this... I did not..

After stripping a set screw in an RCBS lockring I called RCBS for a replacement and in normal fashion they sent some new set screws for free.. Love their C/S..

The guy on the phone told me to keep this from happening again to simply put a peice of lead shot ( birdshot ) inside before adding and tightening the set screw again. This way you don't have to clamp so hard and makes it easy to loosen also..

This may be old news but I thought it was a good idea.. And one old shotshell would be a lifetime supply for this purpose..
 
These are the style lock rings you should be using. No need for lead shot, no damage to the die threads ever.

images
 
Redding lock rings have the shot built in from the factory. However, if you want IMO a really well-designed lock ring, I think the Hornady ones are tough to beat. I don't think I own a even a single Hornady die, but every die I have has one of their lock rings on it.
 
My redding dies came with that lead crap in the end. I now screw it in enough for me to rip out the lead and proceed on without. I put them on my giraud case holders as they are a set up once and leave it alone deal and Im not worried about messing the threads up on a die that could need to be adjusted frequently.

My problem is that once you tighten it with the lead in the end they dont back out. The screw does but the lead stays impacted against the threads and requires me to get water pump pliers to adjust. Get the forster/hornady rings style as shown above.
 
spife7980 said:
My redding dies came with that lead crap in the end. I now screw it in enough for me to rip out the lead and proceed on without. I put them on my giraud case holders as they are a set up once and leave it alone deal and Im not worried about messing the threads up on a die that could need to be adjusted frequently.

My problem is that once you tighten it with the lead in the end they dont back out. The screw does but the lead stays impacted against the threads and requires me to get water pump pliers to adjust. Get the forster/hornady rings style as shown above.
Click to expand...
We're are you from?? I thought only my family called channel locks water pump pliers..lol we farmed for a long time in deep S. Texas...
 
My problem was, when you need to make very small adjustments (0.001 - 0.002") in shoulder movement during sizing, any lock ring set screw or split ring don't work well. If you tighten the split ring when the die is in the proper position, you can't loosen the die. And a set screw without lead, with lead, with acetyl ball, all seem to make moving the lock ring a small amount very difficult.

So I converted all my dies to using an O-ring under the lock ring. I NEVER have to move the lock ring, I can make any adjustment I need to with just tightening or loosening the die slightly. I make a reference mark with a Sharpie, just to get me close. It is the same concept as the Lee lock rings utilize (which I hated at first), but now have come to appreciate.

I do use the split ring on my bullet seating dies that are used in my Forester Co-axial press. Works well there.
 
Rsadams said:
Very nice.. What brand are these?? I live in a small town so iam sure I will have to order them..
Click to expand...

They are aluminum Forster lock rings...and they are excellent. I use these with my Forster Co-ax press.

http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...rades/cross-bolt-die-lock-ring-prod57147.aspx

If you prefer stainless steel, Sinclair also offers lock rings that are very similar in design.

Before I bought the Co-ax, I used the Hornady lock rings and they were excellent also.
 
Hey thanks everyone... I can actually get the hornady rings local.. But local means Cabelas, not cheap and an hours drive..lol... I will look at what it would also cost for the others to order online..
 
Rsadams said:
We're are you from?? I thought only my family called channel locks water pump pliers..lol we farmed for a long time in deep S. Texas...
Click to expand...

Wow, good catch. Just north of San Antonio originally but Austin now. Its just the old timers who did in my experience thus far and then those who learned from them, ie my dad and myself.
 
I started using Hornady lock rings when I bought my Giraud Power Trimmer. They are good rings but the Forster lock rings are winners. I got into using them when the Co-Ax press went into use. I just had to order another twelve-pack so, when I did, I ordered some of the Sinclair lock rings too. Very nice looking lock rings and the way to go if you just gotta have steel.
 
spife7980 said:
Wow, good catch. Just north of San Antonio originally but Austin now. Its just the old timers who did in my experience thus far and then those who learned from them, ie my dad and myself.
Click to expand...
Bastrop here.. Move from CCTX... Originally a white boy from Weslaco...lol
 
With the o-ring you have to readjust the die every time it is removed from the press and put back in. Once I set my dies for my rifle I don't need to adjust it each time I use it. The Sinclair lock nuts are the best but they don't have flats for wrenches. The Hornady lock rings have the flats but no relief on the opposite side for proper clamping. The RCBS nuts use the set screw but you can use a piece of nylon rod so they don't mar the threads and it will spring back to adjust. All lock nuts will pull the die back a bit when they are initially adjusted but if you are smart you simply run them down the extra 1/12 turn and after setting the lock nut you back the die out with a wrench or pliers and screw it back down by hand. If you are loading for just one gun it will be some time before you ever need to adjust the depth of the die.
 
SheepDog said:
With the o-ring you have to readjust the die every time it is removed from the press and put back in.
Click to expand...
Yep. The cheapskate workaround is to use two Lee nuts and biff the O-rings. Bit fiddly to get adjustments just right and needs two spanners to properly lock the nuts together but when setup correctly works well.
I've bought a couple of sets of extra Lee lock nuts as they are so cheap.
My son didn't like the little extra mucking around and bought the Hornady nuts/rings for his dies. :)
As we've now some spares, the Hornady's are growing on me. ;)

He's got less of them left now than he thinks he has. LOL
 
Rsadams said:
We're are you from?? I thought only my family called channel locks water pump pliers..lol we farmed for a long time in deep S. Texas...
Click to expand...

I learned to call 'em water pump pliers the first time I saw a pair. When I first saw "Channel Lock" on a set I figured it was the brand name for the water pump pliers.
 
There is actually a difference between "water pump" pliers and slide lock pliers like "Channel Lock" pliers. "Channel Lock" is a brand of slide lock pliers. Water pump pliers are slip joint pliers with multiple positions and special jaws. Neither should be used on the round locking rings because they will mar the nut. You need padded jaw pliers to use on the lock nuts.
 
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