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Mercury Recoil Reducers?

I feel that when you put shock absorbers on a car . Isn't that the same as mercury recoil reducer? The Edwards worked with a spring and a sliding weight . Mercury is more like a shock. Now I know I can replace my shocks with a straight bar only heaver and I won't feel the bumps . Larry


Shocks support the whole car, that is the theory of the recoil reducers added on the end of the stock. Spring or hydraulic. one inside does about the same as carrying around 4 new shocks in your trunk...... Jim
 
At the risk of derailing a thread, as I age, I find myself more interested in figuring out the long term effects of shooting on our bodies. I've already sort of opted out of regularly shooting big magnums because of the potential hearing damage (the research out there on this is pretty clear - the big boomers are bad for your ears, even with hearing protection). The other thing I wonder about is eyes and the impact of recoil on them. Anyone have any links to research, etc on the topic?



I'm living proof, that you better back off the heavy recoil and noise. I lost most of my hearing and my sight is failing... Jim
 
Shocks support the whole car, that is the theory of the recoil reducers added on the end of the stock. Spring or hydraulic. one inside does about the same as carrying around 4 new shocks in your trunk...... Jim
Jim
Shocks only dampened the movement of the weight .
After this weekend I can tell you don't go hunting in a one ton 4 wheel drive with new shocks
Take my half ton with with new shocks . It is 3000 # less weight and twice a smooth .
Nobody agrees more then I do on recoil
A 25# dasher is plenty of recoil even with two mercury recoil reducers in it. Larry
 
It is the weight that makes you think so, I did so many test at this, it has nothing even similar to a set of shocks working stung weight. they do dampen the movement they don't reduce it. a recoil pad acts like shock ....... Jim
 
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The RAD. things kind of rip your face up unless you get one the has the comb move with it. But for doubles and sporting for fast follow up shots I prefer a pad, less to go wrong. Keep the do dads for the new guys. ........ Jim
 
I'm living proof, that you better back off the heavy recoil and noise. I lost most of my hearing and my sight is failing... Jim
Yep.......... 20ga Citori is gone and a Beretta A400 has taken its place. Much easier on the shoulder.
Same with high power. Nothing but a .223 in F/TR and a Ruger No.1V for play for me these days. And only shoot at matches where muzzle-brakes are not allowed.
Still shoot the 40-65 in BPCR & BPTR, but no more 60-shot matches. BP is much easier on the shoulder than is smokeless.
 
Yep, got a K80 and CG. impact sitting now, working on getting a A400 LH. up and running. 6 BR Imp. is as big as I go and you are right about the brakes ......... Jim
 
Check out: http://www.mercuryrecoil.com/
These recoil reducers are generally used in shotgun sports to add weight in the butt of the stock to better balance the gun to improve the consistency in your swing. These can't hurt in benchrest, and these are an easy way to add weight. How about the Mercury??? :rolleyes:
 
Mercury in a welded metal tube isn't really a problem. If you are going to get the mercury out, you are going to have to work for it.
 
i had the same question about adding weight to my 600-1000 yrd br rifle. wound up adding a lead slug to the butt [ not mine :)]. i used the slug epoxied in because i couldn't get a definitive answer about harmonics from the mercury bouncing around. it didn't hurt that amazon has different size lead rods pretty cheap. the lead rod reduced the recoil and it seems to my brain that 1 lb of lead = 1 lb of mercury. it has nothing to do with recoil reduction but my rifle rides the bags better now too. i am interested to know other, more experienced opinions about the harmonics involved with the mercury. thanks to all
 
Most any weight placed in the stock will reduce recoil without affecting barrel harmonics. The mercury reducers are better than a solid weight because they absorb part of the recoil and "push back" on it. Wood is not very good at transferring harmonics to metal. The barrel harmonics bounce within the metal of the of the barrel and action. The action acts as a mirror for the harmonics just as the muzzle does. The wood is a buffer. That is why contact between the barrel and the stock can sometimes make the gun shoot better. The problem is maintaining the same amount of contact with changes in humidity and temperature. That is why free-floated barrels are typically more consistent.
 
A mercury recoil suppressor is liquid mercury captured in a metal tube with an 'air space', to allow it to move. Per the 'equal & opposite' action/reaction, as the rifle moves back under recoil the liquid mercury 'slams' (for lack of a better term) into the front of the metal tube, counter-acting the felt recoil. A solid piece of lead works differently. It is simply added mass that will slow the recoil a given amount, based on the added mass. Based on their relative mass, mercury is about 20% heavier than is lead, so an equal volume of mercury would work better than lead.
 
I'm living proof, that you better back off the heavy recoil and noise. I lost most of my hearing and my sight is failing... Jim
I know someone who was warned off anything with a heavy recoil by his ophthalmologist because detached retinas are common in his family.

Back on the subject of mercury recoil reducers, I'd have to see the math to believe that 16 oz of mercury can reduce recoil more than 16 ounces of anything else. If you had a way to force that 16 oz rearwards as in a gas action, yes, but just bouncing around, not so sure.
 

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