Neck turning: the correct procedure?

[Campbell]

Steps 7 & 8 should be done before step 4. It is absolutely essential that all the case necks be the same length for accurate turning (as was stated by rardoin above). If you want to check length again after turning and full length re- sizing the second time that's O.K. but may not be necessary. dedogs

Dedogs

A sincerely thank for your correction. I understand your reasoning.

I will edit the OP.

Cam

 

[Campbell]

Campbell,

First step is to resize the fired cases and new cases, then trim all to the same length. The reason for sizing all cases (the virgin cases, in theory, should not size when you run them through the die but sometimes the die will squeeze a few cases down a bit) is to get the neck shoulder junction at the same location from the base before trimming the case over all length. This should put the length of each neck the same. The turning tool 'length of cut' is set based on the length of the neck. If the necks are different in length, some cases may be cut too far into the shoulder and some cut a bit short of the shoulder...so the necks should be trimmed to the same length. Once trimmed, then runn all cases over the expander mandrel; lubricate the case mouth to prevent galling of brass onto the mandrel. Then turn your necks.

I hope this helps

Hi Rardoin

Yes, this has certainly helped me.

Many thanks

Cam

 

[dkhunt14]

Well if you have a standard chamber take as little as possible so you don't have to much clearance with a loaded round good luck.

I am hearing that certain cartridges like the 284 or 284 Shehane like more clearance. Guys that shoot good and whom I trust, tell me that they like .005 to .006 clearance and then they shoot better. I think too many worry about tight clearance and think they shoot better that way. I know in my testing with a Dasher, .001, .002 and .003 showed little difference. Maybe I should of tested farther but I runaway. 266 neck and the necks are getting thin. I like enough to get a good hold on bullet. Now this was done at 1000 yards where it would show up.

I also can't see where a .002 or so difference is going to harden cases much more. Then you have the fact that most top guys in long range have a machine and anneal. Matt

 

[Campbell]

Personally, I would go ahead and once-fire the 30 remaining cases out of the 200 total, clean them well, FLR all 200, trim to common length, use expander mandrel, and neck turn all 200 from a common size. (You will probably realize a little looser fit on the pilot mandrel after using the expander mandrel by working with all once-fired brass.) I would then match my cutter neck-shoulder angle to that of the cases shoulder, and neck turn up into the shoulder a bit to help mitigate doughnuts forming. Sinclair makes an excellent neck turning lubricant.

Dan

Hi Dan

Many thanks for this.

What exactly is the Sinclair lube called, is it a wet, or dry type?

I recently bought some "Imperial Application Media with Dry Neck Lube" and I have found this not as good as the "Lee Resizing Lubricant" for resizing/ turning.

Cam

 

[rardoin]

The Imperial dry lube is not appropriate for neck turning. You can use 3 in 1 oil, motor oil, Imperial 'wax' lube etc. A lubricant is used for two main purposes...to minimize friction between the pilot and case neck and to carry away heat generated by the cutting tool as it shears the brass (it also can provide a smoother cut surface versus no lube). I use a mix of lanolin in a solvent that accomplishes these goals; I chose it because I have it available in the shop. There is no magic lube...as long as it lubes the pilot mandrel to reduce heat and eliminate galling and carries away heat from the cutting process it will work.

 

[Campbell]

The Imperial dry lube is not appropriate for neck turning. You can use 3 in 1 oil, motor oil, Imperial 'wax' lube etc. A lubricant is used for two main purposes...to minimize friction between the pilot and case neck and to carry away heat generated by the cutting tool as it shears the brass (it also can provide a smoother cut surface versus no lube). I use a mix of lanolin in a solvent that accomplishes these goals; I chose it because I have it available in the shop. There is no magic lube...as long as it lubes the pilot mandrel to reduce heat and eliminate galling and carries away heat from the cutting process it will work.

Hi rardoin

Many thanks again.

You have confirmed my observation despite my short reloading experience re lubes.

Thanks again!

Cam

 

[dannyjbiggs]

Hi Dan

Many thanks for this.

What exactly is the Sinclair lube called, is it a wet, or dry type?

I recently bought some "Imperial Application Media with Dry Neck Lube" and I have found this not as good as the "Lee Resizing Lubricant" for resizing/ turning.

Cam

Sinclair Neck Turning Lube, #13-1000, 1.25 oz. bottle, liquid. A very little dab will do ya.

Dan

 

[Campbell]

Sinclair Neck Turning Lube, #13-1000, 1.25 oz. bottle, liquid. A very little dab will do ya.

Dan

Hi Dan

Many thanks again! I am about to go out and party, but will look your reference later.

Enjoy the rest of the Festive time!!

Cam

 

[Judd]

You could do yourself a favor a ditch steps 1 and 11. I've never owned a tumbler, and wouldn't consider it. Those perfect necks and perfectly crowned and polished case mouths are precious to accuracy.

Tom

Just out of curiosity, how do you clean the turning lube out of the necks without tumbling? Alcohol on a qtip? Just wondered if there was a better way.

 

[dkhunt14]

Just out of curiosity, how do you clean the turning lube out of the necks without tumbling? Alcohol on a qtip? Just wondered if there was a better way.

I do like Tom almost. I clean with acetone on a Q-tip. I also polish with steel wool around an old worn out bronze brush. I also anneal before I size and load. Matt

 

[/VH]

Personally, I would go ahead and once-fire the 30 remaining cases out of the 200 total, clean them well, FLR all 200, trim to common length, use expander mandrel, and neck turn all 200 from a common size. (You will probably realize a little looser fit on the pilot mandrel after using the expander mandrel by working with all once-fired brass.) I would then match my cutter neck-shoulder angle to that of the cases shoulder, and neck turn up into the shoulder a bit to help mitigate doughnuts forming. Sinclair makes an excellent neck turning lubricant.

Dan

I agree for the sake of better consistency but I'm thinking the currently once fired brass was fire formed in a different chamber. FWIW

 

[Judd]

Thanks Tom and Matt!

 

[Campbell]

You could do yourself a favor a ditch steps 1 and 11. I've never owned a tumbler, and wouldn't consider it. Those perfect necks and perfectly crowned and polished case mouths are precious to accuracy.

Tom

Hi Tom

You make a very interesting point!

What I have found is that s/s tumbling cleans the cases so well that the inside of the necks need lube before trying to seat the bullets. If i don't use lube, the case tends to scratch the bullet.

Given the above though, my thinking is that a perfectly clean case, properly neck turned/sized and lubed before bullet seating, will give greater consistency.

Tom, what's your take and why?

Many thanks

Cam

 

[Campbell]

I agree for the sake of better consistency but I'm thinking the currently once fired brass was fire formed in a different chamber. FWIW

Hi Brian

You are correct.

I bought the 200 Lapua at a Bring -&-Buy-Sale for £10.

Cam

 

[Campbell]

Cam,

Not such a big deal with new cases, but once their fired and ready to go. The carbon layer inside there is a perfect lube. I like to just polish it with a stiff nylon brush and call it good.

Tom

Hi Tom

I completely agree re the perfect lube in the neck, but what about the crud that's left in the case and primer pocket? My (unlearned) opinion is that this residue could cause inconsistency in case/primer pocket volumes.

What's your take?

Thanks

Cam

 

[fgregorio]

Just a heads up. Do remember to use plenty of sewing machine oil and to keep very close attention to the temperature of the cutter.
Higher rpm's with a drill are better than lower rpm's by hand (hopeless job both in quality and consistency).
The oil acts both as a lubricant and a coolant. If the cutter starts heating too much just stop.
I've neck turned plenty of competition cases and this is the system that served me best.
The best resizing system I found was the lee collet die provided you have neckturned cases.